recently ive been thinking more and more about getting a trials bike and im wondering what you guys would recommend as far as size. i currently ride a klx300 and have owned a ktm250(loved it). im 6'1 about 195lbs. ive never ridden a trials bike but i have been doing trials riding on my mountainbike for the past 10 years, no competitions, just for fun. id like a bike thats easy to learn on but wont quickly outgrow. i have a feeling i will pick up motorcycle trials fairly quick as im pretty skilled on my mtb. im looking for something used around $2000. not too many places to find one here in northern new jersey but im planning to check out the tryals shop in ny when im ready to buy...know of any clubs in nj???
becoming a trials addict
- Thread starter flicklee
- Start date
With your weight and height I would recommend a 250cc bike rather than going to a smaller capacity bike. If you've been practicing bike trials then you should have good balance, and also know a lot of the more advanced techniques.
As far as recommending a brand of bike to buy I would say for you to try out as many different brands as you can. One will appeal more than the others. Have a look in the other threads to see what brands have been recommended.
LoriKTM has just bought a trials bike, and is from Upstate NY, but I have no real idea on how close she would be to New Jersey.
Maybe check out the USA forum on www.trials.co.uk to get some contacts in your area.
As far as recommending a brand of bike to buy I would say for you to try out as many different brands as you can. One will appeal more than the others. Have a look in the other threads to see what brands have been recommended.
LoriKTM has just bought a trials bike, and is from Upstate NY, but I have no real idea on how close she would be to New Jersey.
Maybe check out the USA forum on www.trials.co.uk to get some contacts in your area.
LoriKTM
Super Power AssClown
Flick,
We got our trials bike from Mike over at the Tryals Shop-- it's only about 30 minutes from where my husband works. Check out the website www.tryalsshop.com, and then give Mike a call. He's a great guy, local expert rider, and VERY knowledgeable about trials. He has several used bikes on the list, and even if he doesn't have what you're looking for, he can probably find it or get it. He can ship the bike to you, if you can't make the drive. He thoroughly checks the bikes he gets in, and will stand behind the deal-- if you don't like the bike, or it doesn't work out, he'll give you your money back no questions asked. (within a reasonable time period, of course! 2 weeks, or 30 days, I forget).
After having met him and seeing how he loves the sport, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another bike from him, even sight unseen.
We got our trials bike from Mike over at the Tryals Shop-- it's only about 30 minutes from where my husband works. Check out the website www.tryalsshop.com, and then give Mike a call. He's a great guy, local expert rider, and VERY knowledgeable about trials. He has several used bikes on the list, and even if he doesn't have what you're looking for, he can probably find it or get it. He can ship the bike to you, if you can't make the drive. He thoroughly checks the bikes he gets in, and will stand behind the deal-- if you don't like the bike, or it doesn't work out, he'll give you your money back no questions asked. (within a reasonable time period, of course! 2 weeks, or 30 days, I forget).
After having met him and seeing how he loves the sport, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another bike from him, even sight unseen.
- Thread starter
- #4
I have found a 97Scorpa Easy within driving distance. my plan is to check it out asap. Ive read nothing but good things online about the Easy. Does anyone know of any problems with the 97s??Im sure we will take a ride up to the Tryals shop sooner or later as my freind is also interested in a bike. thanks for the info..
- Thread starter
- #6
Windfall, where do you get parts from and how long does it take?? I just put a deposit on the Scorpa and I should have it next week. Are there any guards you think I should get, such as brake-clutch master cylinder or a pipe guard? are they even available??
I get all my bike specific parts from Mike at the Tryals Shopand usually recieve them in 2-3 days, but I get things like levers, tires, etc. from the local Gas Gas dealer because he rides at all of the meets I go to. As far as guards, I haven't added anything and I haven't broken anything except clutch levers (I always seem to fall to the left).
TheJunkMan
Member
- Jul 9, 2003
- 586
- 0
Try loosening the clutch pearch a little so it will rotate in a crash.
Welcome to the club Flicklee!! Setup is a little different with trials bikes, such as the 80:1 mix ratio and the 3-5psi in the rear tire thing, but won't take you long to figure it all out. They are simply a blast! With your Mtb background, you'll take to it right away. The techniques are very similar.
TheJunkMan
Member
- Jul 9, 2003
- 586
- 0
Except falling on rocks hurts!!!
- Thread starter
- #15
well, ive had the Scorpa for a week and im totally addicted. its amazing what these bikes allow you to do. ive surprised myself quite often by riding sections i thought were too much too soon. im still a bit unsteady on the bike. i cant get used to the steering. the front end tends to push in tight turns. i just rebuilt the forks and set the preload on the lightest setting and even slid the legs up a bit in the clamps. maybe the slow steering is normal and i have to get used to it. what weight fork oil do most of you use??? i tried 5wt and the action is pretty good. not sure if they make anything lighter? the clutch drag on the Scorpa is pretty annoying. im running 450cc of dextron atf as recomended by mike at the tryals shop but it still creeps a bit. i need to check my sag to make sure i have the right springs...any tips would be great. ive read 40% rear and 25% front is a good start. is the rear supposed to have any free sag (just the weight of the bike) ?
If you are having problems with the front end pushing then all you have to do is move your weight back a bit, or use less sterring lock and lean the bike into the turn more. If the front end is pushing generally you will have heaps of front wheel traction to get your weight back without losing it.
My Y2K Beta has upside down forks which seems to push much more than the normal side up forks - to counter this I have also been trying to lean the bike more and turn the handlebars less. Sometimes it works and sometimes I fall off (the story of my life!).
You can get 2.5 wt fork oil, however as 5wt works fine on my bike I haven't tried any.
The clutch drag problems can happen to any brand of trials bike, ask TexKDX what he uses as I think he has had a couple of Scorpas, so should have figured out what works for him. If the oil viscosity and level is correct then it may be a simple lever adjustment that helps the most.
Good luck and happy trialing!
My Y2K Beta has upside down forks which seems to push much more than the normal side up forks - to counter this I have also been trying to lean the bike more and turn the handlebars less. Sometimes it works and sometimes I fall off (the story of my life!).
You can get 2.5 wt fork oil, however as 5wt works fine on my bike I haven't tried any.
The clutch drag problems can happen to any brand of trials bike, ask TexKDX what he uses as I think he has had a couple of Scorpas, so should have figured out what works for him. If the oil viscosity and level is correct then it may be a simple lever adjustment that helps the most.
Good luck and happy trialing!
As Wayne already said, a big part of steering problem is likely technique. Remember to steer by leaning, not by turning the bars. Initiate the turn with peg pressure, not the bars, and lean the bike into the turn, keeping your body centered for balance (this is why there is no seat, to allow you to lean the bike while keeping your body upright and centered) and weight the outside peg (very little or no weight on the bars).
Suspension setup seems to be greatly varying from person to person, but I don't find that I get much if any free sag or static sag even with things set very soft. The 40/25 rule should get you close, but don't get too caught up in static sag as it would appear it is not an issue here.
Suspension setup seems to be greatly varying from person to person, but I don't find that I get much if any free sag or static sag even with things set very soft. The 40/25 rule should get you close, but don't get too caught up in static sag as it would appear it is not an issue here.
After reading through my post I thought I'd better try and qualify what I was trying to say. Thank you for your posts on this subject as it has forced me to think a little bit more about this area which has always been a weakness for me, and to try and figure out where I'm going wrong.
I have found that the front end pushing seems to be more obvious for me in a downhill situation, as theres more weight on the front wheel. The answer is to lean the bike more and turn the handlebars less, however if you are going between trees or a narrow space sometimes it isn't practical to do this, and you end up having to turn without leaning at all. In these cases getting your weight as far back as possible definitely helps. Also by trying to ride as slowly as you possibly can (balance permitting) you gain better feedback as to what the front wheel is doing, and also time to correct any mistakes. One of the things that one of our local expert riders has told me is that I need to slow down to minimise my points during a trial, and I think that it would definitely help in this situation.
I usually have problems with bumpy downhill off camber turns because with the upside down forks and no fork brace on my bike I get a bit of fork flex which makes the steering feel a bit vague. The problem with tucking under or pushing seems to happen in this situation several times during a turn as I over correct by leaning or by turning the handlebars too much or not enough. Also when hitting the bumps the steering geometry changes a little bit as the forks compress and rebound. So this particular skill seems to be something that is very important to practice a lot to save some dabs and the ocassional splat during a trial.
By the way the Ryan Young video is a good investment in my opinion as well. :thumb:
I have found that the front end pushing seems to be more obvious for me in a downhill situation, as theres more weight on the front wheel. The answer is to lean the bike more and turn the handlebars less, however if you are going between trees or a narrow space sometimes it isn't practical to do this, and you end up having to turn without leaning at all. In these cases getting your weight as far back as possible definitely helps. Also by trying to ride as slowly as you possibly can (balance permitting) you gain better feedback as to what the front wheel is doing, and also time to correct any mistakes. One of the things that one of our local expert riders has told me is that I need to slow down to minimise my points during a trial, and I think that it would definitely help in this situation.
I usually have problems with bumpy downhill off camber turns because with the upside down forks and no fork brace on my bike I get a bit of fork flex which makes the steering feel a bit vague. The problem with tucking under or pushing seems to happen in this situation several times during a turn as I over correct by leaning or by turning the handlebars too much or not enough. Also when hitting the bumps the steering geometry changes a little bit as the forks compress and rebound. So this particular skill seems to be something that is very important to practice a lot to save some dabs and the ocassional splat during a trial.
By the way the Ryan Young video is a good investment in my opinion as well. :thumb:
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TheJunkMan
Member
- Jul 9, 2003
- 586
- 0
definately!!
