truespode

Moderator / Wheelie King
Jun 30, 1999
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I just picked up a 2005 GT Series 2.0 that has a 50/34 Compact crank with a 9 speed 11/23 rear cassette (Shimano). I will keep it in TN mostly to ride when I am at my girlfriend's house (got it for $415 on fleaBay... should be here next week).

I currently run a 50/34 Ultegra Compact on my Bianchi with a 12/27 10 speed rear cassette (Shimano).

I am starting to venture out to more hilly terrain. Some of it is rather steep and a few new hills I found in TN are not as steep but are more long and hurtful :D

Anyway, I want to upgrade the rear cassette on the GT and figure I will put similar gearing for the rear cassette on the Bianchi as well.

My LBS has a few options using SRAM components. The one I'm liking right now is a 11/28 9 speed for the GT and a 12/28 for the Bianchi but I also have the option of a /32 or /34 but would have to upgrade the rear derailer as well.

What recommendation do you guys have about it? I struggle on steep hills with my /27 but can get up them. Problem is the more mileage I venture out on the more and steeper the hills. I think the /32 is overkill but when I'm struggling I'm begging for another gear.

However, as I keep improving I don't want to get to where the /32 is not used and a pain when the /28 would be sufficient at that point.

For the most part I am most comfortable when I can maintain an 75-80rpm cadence going up hill and a 90rpm cadence on flats.

I want both bikes to have as similar gearing as possible for hills so I will upgrade both to be as similar as possible in the highest gear.

I am also going to have both bikes fitted by the LBS for me and see how that goes.

Thanks
Ivan
 

Rich Rohrich

Moderator / BioHazard
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jul 27, 1999
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Ivan - It's a cassette, so you can change the top cog down the road if you want, so don't let it wind you up too much.

Most of my bikes are single speed, so I'm probably the wrong person to give advice on this subject :whoa: , but I'm a firm believer in the "spin to win" school of thought.

Put the 32 top cog on for now and learn to spin up the hills like you do on the flats. Buy an additional 28 tooth top cog, so you can change it if you want. It takes all of 10 minutes to swap a cog. :cool:


... or you could just go with the 28 and train hard till it's the right gear. My guess is, this is the approach you WANT to take. ;)
 

truespode

Moderator / Wheelie King
Jun 30, 1999
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Rich Rohrich said:
... or you could just go with the 28 and train hard till it's the right gear. My guess is, this is the approach you WANT to take. ;)

Yeah... I think I'm looking for people to say "don't be a WUSSIE and go with the /28"

:laugh:

I have the opportunity to go on some of the same road that the Assault on Mt Mitchell is and there are some brutal climbs there so I might pick up the larger ring just for those rides.

Thanks

Ivan
 

Patman

Pantless Wonder
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Dec 26, 1999
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don't be a WUSSIE and go with the /28
 

splatt

Resident mental case
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Dec 1, 2001
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Rich Rohrich said:
but I'm a firm believer in the "spin to win" school of thought.

It's also easier for your legs to recover versus powering up a hill in a higher gear.

Steve
 

Tony Eeds

Godspeed Tony.
N. Texas SP
Jun 9, 2002
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ditto the spin to win scenario

Your target cadences are good overall as well.

Higher cadences result in burning off the acid that builds up in our legs while riding.

I would go with the 28.

You didn't mention, but how many miles is your base and what are you riding per week?

These will affect how quickly your legs adapt to any bike, route, etc.

I rode RAGBRAI with only 44 miles of base one year, but I have 20,000 plus overall, so I just listened to my legs and did fine that week and added over 550 to my total.

I need to get my road bike off the rack and ride it.

It is an old Trek 1400 that I got for my 40th B-Day ... which makes it 18 years old. It is fun to see the kids look at downtube shifters and try and understand them! :)
 

truespode

Moderator / Wheelie King
Jun 30, 1999
7,984
251
Tony Eeds said:
You didn't mention, but how many miles is your base and what are you riding per week?


Since 2004 I have averaged 500 miles a year (I know, not much). Last year I was over 700 and this year I am on pace for 1200 (600 miles so far this year). Prior to this year my highest year was 2006 with 975 miles.

For the past 3 months, I usually ride 15-20 miles 3 to 4 times a week. I ride the dirtbike two to three times a month which is time I could be on the bicycle BUT I won't give up the dirt :)

Right now with the heat if it is over 90 degrees I do 15 and if it is under then I do 20 unless it is a weekend and then I do 25 - 30 for a ride. I try to get at least two 25 - 30 mile rides in a month but it all depends on time.

My time is taken up by every other Friday having my niece (which I won't give up b/c her dad isn't in the picture so I am her male role-model), every other Friday going to Nashville (6 hour drive but I take the bicycle to ride while I am there-usually just one day to ride) and back on Sunday and riding the dirtbike at least one day on the weekend's I'm not in Nashville. Plus I have a 45-50 minute one way commute to work and am rarely home before 6:45pm (puts me on the bike a little after 7pm and around here I won't ride at night).

I have been spinning more in the 90's lately and feel comfortable there more and more. On flats I feel I can ride all day, even with a headwind, but the hills just zap me good but I do my best to target 80rpm or better.

I have a couple metric centuries I want to do by the end of the year... I should realistically be able to get at least one of them under my belt based on what I know is on tap coming up.

Next weekend I won't ride much but I will be in West By God Virginia tearing up the YZ250F for two days :)

Ivan
 
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