Brake pads, rotors and suspension settings

[lpracing77]

I just bought my first KDX. Its a 97 KDX220 with very low miles. I ride in a very muddy / rocky area on New England. My question is about rear brake pads and rotors. I want to put a solid disc on the rear and has any one got advice about brake pads - stock vs aftermarket ? Which rotors are best ? How about fork and shock settings for really rocky terrain ? I weigh about 175 with my gear on and I and an average B rider. My bike is stock except for a FMF rev Fatty (stamped K30) Thanks - a new KDX convert

 

[canyncarvr]

Just so you don't feel left out.........:( A useful reply? Alas, but no....

I have nothing of import to impart. I know solid rotors are supposed to be superior in mud situations. Commonly available a lot of places. I think mr. fredette has 'em. I've never understood why a cleaning rotor (grooved, drilled whatever) isn't better in mud, water or anything else. Yeah...they wear pads more, but I'd prefer they WORK when I need them. I've never used anything but EBC pads. Not scintered. Not kevlar. Your average one-each pads. They don't last too long, but they DO work all the time. And after several years of riding most every weekend, my rotors aren't comPLETE trash...just groovy! (isn't that a good thing?)

Fork/shock settings the same as every other type of riding..namely 'set to suit.' Any number of suspension sites have suspension setup progressions to go through (like: http://www.pro-action.com/2index.htm no endorsement expressed or implied..I just know they have a listing).

OEM fork springs are too soft for 175#...but I'm sure you've read plenty about that.......

Enjoy your kdx!

 

[70 marlin]

I'm not sure if I'll be any help? but on jr's 96 I put kevlar pads & moose pins on it and had nothing but problems with'em. I think jr's calipers are sticking, or he's using he rear brake a ton? his brake locks up after riding a long time? the rotor looks blue'ish and cooked! pulled the brake last time it happened and the pads looked fine? with all that heat you'd expect to see'em toasted? I bought a set of EBC's elcheapo's and I'll clean every thing up. check all the slides & pins for trueness and lube them, check the caliper, bleed'em & put'em together and see what happens?

 

[Matt90GT]

I have been running the Braking Products CM44 semi/ceramic pads on my XR600 and have them on the rear of the KDX250.

The 600 is a big bike to haul down and they do a great job! They do not fade and are always there. When they get hot, they can make a bit of moaning noise, but that is the only bad thing I can say about them. They have been great pads for everything from desert to sand and mud.

Rocks, you want plush. Thing about having the forks revalved and/or install some gold valves in them. Otherwise run them soft on the compression then play with the oil weight to set your rebound.

 

[andrew]

kevlar pads will wear out in no time, especially in mud. I use sintered metal pads - yeah they aren't too easy on the disk, but they work great, all the time, all the way down to the metal!

 

[70 marlin]

I went from one end of the rear brake to the end, and this is what I found.
master cylinder, rusted & gummed plunger dust cover & washer. seal was in good shape. cleaned & lubed
1. brake line. good shape
2. caliper. gummed & dirty. cleaned, seal in good shape.
3. pin's & slides. bent, rusted & corroded. replaced, cleaned & lubed.
4. rotor. rough, burnished but straight. cleaned up gently deglased surface.
5. pads. glased. replaced with elcheapo's
I bought a vac self bleeder to help with the job. man why did I wait so long to buy tis tool! it worked great!!!!!!!!! so hopfully ever thing will work great.