Carb overflow problem plus FMF exhaust questions

[UFS207]

Hi. I have a 2000 KDX220R. I bought it used about 3 months ago, I am pretty new to 2 strokes. I cannot get the damn carb to stop leaking out the overflow tube. I have replaced the rubber-plunger deal that stops the gas flow inside the carb bowl. I also thoroughly inspected the float for cracks plus tested it in a cup of gas to see if it was "water-logged" or something but it floats just fine and level. It`s not near as bad now but if I leave the bike sitting for more than 30 minutes or so there will be a puddle of fuel under it. I should also note that the carb is spotlessly clean and I can pull the bowl off the carb and "manually" hold upward on the float with a very light pressure and no fuel gets by. Float height is currently at .710" or 18mm from the bowl mating surface.

I also believe this is why the bike seems very inconsistent whenever I play around with jetting/needle/air screw settings due to the fact that the fuel level is so erratic. Any suggestions on how to correct this problem would be appreciated.

P.S. - Quick exhaust questions: How can I tell if the FMF Gnarly pipe on my bike is a woods or desert pipe? Also what is the difference between a FMF Power Core 2 and a FMF Turbine Core 2? I want a silencer I can take apart and clean.

Thanks for reading.

 

[2wheeler]

Adjust the float level. bend the tab on the float about 1 to 2 mm(to lower gas level). I did this to mine and solved the problem. As for the silencer the Turbine core 2 is a spark arrestor. The only real difference is it has a screen or wire mesh in it to stop sparks from coming out. You can take apart and repack both

 

[BigRedAF]

If the gas is coming out of the overflow line and the needle is in good condtion then your float is to high, plain and simple. Good luck, all should be fine.

 

[Rhodester]

The Turbine Core (and I assume the TCII) have an internal spinner type spark arrestor. I can't remember the proper name for the device ( it starts with a K).

Is your carb completely straight up and down and not canted to the left side slightly?

 

[Rhodester]

Oh, forgot to mention....the woods pipe MAY have a -35 designation on one of the mounting tabs and the rev pipe MAY have a -30 on a tab. The rev is much larger in the center section than the woods (girth-wise). The -30 will almost touch the lowest point on the right radiator cover and the -35 will be about 1 3/4 inches away from it.

 

[canyncarvr]

Replacing the float needle didn't do anything for the seat.

Burnish it.

If the kickstand is bent (does it lean over too far?), there isn't any reasonable adjustment to the float level that is going to fix it.

re: pipes

What Rhodester said.

The -30 rev is about 14" around at the largest point, the -35 torque is about 11".

The power core is NOT a spark arrester. The turbine core II is. Run a spark arrester in the woods. Well...if you have a single operating brain cell, you will. You can take the TCII apart to clean it. You do take it apart to repack it (do that more often than you think you should...at least once a year).

The turbine core II Q is an S/A..but I've heard too many bad things about it. Even the advertisements say it sucks power.

The TCII will run quiet enough for anywhere. Mine checked 88db last tech. Fresh repack.

 

[UFS207]

Thanks for the replies. I inspected the seat in carb and it looked fine. I should have mentioned I`ve tried a bunch of different float levels and the only settings that didn`t leak were upwards of 20mm from the bowl mating surface which wasn`t even letting enough fuel in the bowl to start the bike. The bike even leaks when tied straight up and down in the back of my truck so I don`t think it`s a bent stand (it IS bent, but I thought it was supposed to be that way). Should I maybe take the carb to work (i`m a machinist) and cut a small (1/64" or less) chamfer on the seat?

The -30 rev is about 14" around at the largest point, the -35 torque is about 11".

According to this I have a rev pipe which kinda sucks, most of my riding is deep woods stuff. I couldn`t find any markings on the tabs but sure enough is roughly 14" around at the largest point.

I will definately buy a spark arrestor. I am surprised they even offer a plain silencer for a woods/playbike.

The turbine core II Q is an S/A..but I've heard too many bad things about it. Even the advertisements say it sucks power.

Could you elaborate on this? Will it plug the bike up worse than the stock silencer? About the same? I just want something I can clean/repack. Is there any other type of spark arrestor I can use with the gnarly pipe that will at least give similar power as the stock unit?

Thanks again.

 

[Rhodester]

I've have a TC (I) and it is fairly loud. The TCII is better. The 'Q' is quiet and I couldn't tell any difference in power from the TC. I love the 'Q' and would highly recommend it. Fredette says that the power of the Q is similar to the stock silencer, but with less weight. My engine makes more noise from the cases and out the sides of the pipe than out the end of the silencer.

 

[canyncarvr]

re: according to this...

Don't worry about a -30 (rev) pipe on a 220. That's the more often chosen pipe due to the 220s personality (port timing, compression, small bore carb and stuff). With a -30 you should still have plenty of bottom end on your 220..and the 220 needs all the help it can get on the topend of things.

re: elaborate

I don't have a 'Q', haven't ever ridden with one. If Rhodester says it's ok, it probably is. I only have anecdotal information regarding the use of a 'Q'. And, as I said, the ad itself indicates there IS a power loss with the 'Q'. I know of some 'Q' tips used on 4-strokes that were huge disappointments power-loss wise.

The TCII works fine...is an S/A and you can repack/clean it as often as you like. PC makes an S/A for the KDX also. I had better luck with the mounting/fit of the PC than I did the TCII. More than once riders have complained of NOT getting the required mounting hardware with the TCII. Make sure (if you get one) that it comes with the grommets and shouldered bolts to mount it up right.

I ended up making my own sleeves for the TCII I have. Used some hardware store bushings that only had to be 'remfg' a little to fit.

You won't have any complaint @ 88db.

re: inspected the seat.

Burnish it anyway. I wouldn't cut it. Use a moist (alcohol) q-tip with a strip of wet-n-dry over the tip. Probably 400g or so. Twist it around some. Clean it with a fresh tip. Check for bits of cotton left behind.

Make sure the floats aren't tweaked and rubbing against the bowl. Sorry for asking..but you realize the float level is set by bending the tang at the needle and NOT by bending the floats, right?

Not everyone does it the correct way. :ugg: