Carb Questions
- Thread starter Fatherof2
- Start date
unscrew the screws in front and back of the carb on the rubber boots then grab the pull tab on the rear boot pull backwards an get it away from the carb then use your hand an push the boot so the face of the boottucks behind the left frame rail above the foot peg, you now have the room to grab the carb and twist it out of the front boot, now its a matter of leaning and tilting it out the left side of the frame...once free the carb is out and you need only to unscrew the top cap and lift the slide straight out.
you should only need to remove the 4 bowl screws and take the main and idle jet out and the pin that holds the float on and lift the float and needle straight out.
if you find varnish in the bowl it would be a good idea to dunk the carb in carb cleaner then use compressed air to blow out all passages, dunk the jets seperatly then blow them out to .
be gentle with the float and needle and dont try to bend it in any way it is probably set just right.
also make sure you have a good quality small flathead screwdriver to fit into the 3/16th hole for the idle jet you want it to be nearly as wide as the idle jet or you may mess it up
you should only need to remove the 4 bowl screws and take the main and idle jet out and the pin that holds the float on and lift the float and needle straight out.
if you find varnish in the bowl it would be a good idea to dunk the carb in carb cleaner then use compressed air to blow out all passages, dunk the jets seperatly then blow them out to .
be gentle with the float and needle and dont try to bend it in any way it is probably set just right.
also make sure you have a good quality small flathead screwdriver to fit into the 3/16th hole for the idle jet you want it to be nearly as wide as the idle jet or you may mess it up
sea foam is brand name for a gas additive that removes carbon buildup and other bad stuff in the engine. by putting it in your tank and leaving the reserve open, you allow the seafoam to get into the carb and clean most of the varnish and dirt. It's not as effective as a full rebuild/cleaning, but it does it's job and is very easy to do.
You can pick up a can at napa or whatever auto parts store is around you.
You can pick up a can at napa or whatever auto parts store is around you.
David
a good rinse would be the best thing for the tank ...maybee a quart of gas shake it around drain into a oil bottle and throw it in the ridng mower.
Btw. best place to find a manual is ebay you can find them for about half off the dealership...
the what you did to tour kdx thread is mostly for posting what you did on thumpertalk not how do I do......soon Fo2 you will figuer out who I am over there
a good rinse would be the best thing for the tank ...maybee a quart of gas shake it around drain into a oil bottle and throw it in the ridng mower.
Btw. best place to find a manual is ebay you can find them for about half off the dealership...
the what you did to tour kdx thread is mostly for posting what you did on thumpertalk not how do I do......soon Fo2 you will figuer out who I am over there
The sea foam is a fuel stabilizer for storage, and not having to drain the fuel out. After your bike is all good, and you want to store it, then get the sea foam, its not cheap, but does work very good. You really need to pull the tank and clean it, and there should be a filter inside above the shut off. Go for a shop manual, one that shows the transmission apart. If parts in the carb look worn/shiny, they are and can be a problem. Vintage Bob
That is where bizarro world starts, is the nicest way to put that. I can not propagate a product and not back up why, or reality. No testimonials please? Been there and done that. http://www.seafoamsales.com/why-sea-foam-spray-works.html . Great fuel stabilizer, that you can benefit running all the time. Is that better?
That doesn't always work. If the carb's float bowl is already full of fuel, the seafoam will not travel down the fuel line and into the float bowl.Acblind said:
If you add SeaFoam to the gas tank, you'll need to unscrew the float bowl drain and drain the bowl until the SeaFoam-spiced fuel from the tank has filled the bowl. Easiest way to do this is to turn the fuel tap OFF, remove the float bowl drain until the float bowl is empty, replace the drain, and turn the fuel tap ON. You can turn it to RESERVE if you like, it makes no difference unless you have less than about half a gallon of fuel in the tank.
For a machine that has been sitting that long, the SeaFoam probably won't do much; the long, tiny passages in the carb body (not just the jets) are most likely varnished up. Best way to clean these is to take the carb to a shop that has an ultrasonic carb cleaner. This will break down the varnish deposits in those passages that the SeaFoam cannot reach.
Remember; if the passages are plugged up, there's not way a solvent like SeaFoam can get in.
That is some very good advice. I have a quality screwdriver that I ground the sides down so that it is just wide enough to fit in that pilot (aka idle) jet's "tunnel". Its real easy to bugger the brass jet slot if the screwdriver isn't a near-perfect fit, for both the jet's slot and the hole the jet is located in.sr5bidder said:
I assume the tank is empty and the bowl has long been dryed up from the way it was discribed. anyhow it is a very good idea to make certain the bowl is empty and I use a test tank hung on the bars and add straight seafoam just enought to fill the bowl and submerge the jets. unless there is a problem with the float hieght or leak by most of the other fuel circuits are normally ok.
I let it set there untill I have time to dig in and drain and take the carb out. It really helps loosen the varnish but you cant run it with out taking apart and removine the "jelly" from the bowl and jets
Bob this is what I use http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html
not the spray
I let it set there untill I have time to dig in and drain and take the carb out. It really helps loosen the varnish but you cant run it with out taking apart and removine the "jelly" from the bowl and jets
Bob this is what I use http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html
not the spray
Fo2
A bit more for you seeings how you don't have a manual:
use this picture along with my instruction
http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/exppwk.gif
there is a plastic screw (29a) with a spring under it that adjusts idle speed, I have never messed with it and see no need to take it out seems it would be damaged, at least on mine.
choke plunger (2): you should remove this I believe it is a 12mm wrench
Float (3): there is a pin that you can push out, be very gentle and push the pin out while the carb is upside down and then gently lift the bowl staight up with fuel valve and set aside someplace safe away from movments
NOTE you will have to remove the main jet (26) and anti cavitation skirt (not shown but I swear I have one in mine) first
air screw (17) first gentle turn in and count how many turns till it stops ex: 1 1/2 or 2 1/4, the n write that down.. now unscrew it and the spring and set aside
slow jet (10): this is hidden in a hole find a screw driver that fits nicely and remove
At this piont I normally take the bowl and rinse it out then put the slow jet and main inro the bowl and fill the bowl with carb cleaner and let set.
now it is safe to dunk the carb (there are other screws that can be removed DON'T) let it set for 15-20 minutes
go searching for some 14 guage multi strand wire ( this is used to poke through the main and slow jets) unravel one or two strands and gentely run it through the jets
to be continued
A bit more for you seeings how you don't have a manual:
use this picture along with my instruction
http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/exppwk.gif
there is a plastic screw (29a) with a spring under it that adjusts idle speed, I have never messed with it and see no need to take it out seems it would be damaged, at least on mine.
choke plunger (2): you should remove this I believe it is a 12mm wrench
Float (3): there is a pin that you can push out, be very gentle and push the pin out while the carb is upside down and then gently lift the bowl staight up with fuel valve and set aside someplace safe away from movments
NOTE you will have to remove the main jet (26) and anti cavitation skirt (not shown but I swear I have one in mine) first
air screw (17) first gentle turn in and count how many turns till it stops ex: 1 1/2 or 2 1/4, the n write that down.. now unscrew it and the spring and set aside
slow jet (10): this is hidden in a hole find a screw driver that fits nicely and remove
At this piont I normally take the bowl and rinse it out then put the slow jet and main inro the bowl and fill the bowl with carb cleaner and let set.
now it is safe to dunk the carb (there are other screws that can be removed DON'T) let it set for 15-20 minutes
go searching for some 14 guage multi strand wire ( this is used to poke through the main and slow jets) unravel one or two strands and gentely run it through the jets
to be continued
now its time to pull the carb out and gentely sop up excess cleaner with a rag and use compressed air (can substitute canned air) to blow out the 2 holes at the rear of the carb, the hole where the slow jet came from, the hole the main jet came from and the little tiny hole in the inside (engine side of the slide) and of course the choke plunger and where the fuel hose connects
it may be usefull to have some q-tips to wipe out the bowl and carb body but don't let the q-tip shead anything.
now just reassemble in reverse order being carefull with the float and fuel needle. and when lowering the bowl back on take your time, the overflow tube in the bowl has to sneak in there a certain way past the float
Do not over tighten the jets.
check your slide for any dirt and lower it and the carb cap straight down into the body andlastly reconnect all those hoses I forgot to tell you to remove and check for blockages.
After sitting so long I would order a new pre-oiled filter and change that out befor starting the bike along with checking the airbow and boot for any dirt.
it may be usefull to have some q-tips to wipe out the bowl and carb body but don't let the q-tip shead anything.
now just reassemble in reverse order being carefull with the float and fuel needle. and when lowering the bowl back on take your time, the overflow tube in the bowl has to sneak in there a certain way past the float
Do not over tighten the jets.
check your slide for any dirt and lower it and the carb cap straight down into the body andlastly reconnect all those hoses I forgot to tell you to remove and check for blockages.
After sitting so long I would order a new pre-oiled filter and change that out befor starting the bike along with checking the airbow and boot for any dirt.
I am real surprised that company brings up the "Larry the cable guy" method of spraying into a running engine. Very unsafe for you, me and every living thing on the planet. In worse/ignorant days I would have done the same thing. Labels, companies and such lie/deceive and stretch the truth, marketing 101. A little common sense, properly used goes a long way. There is no miracle in a can, to make the job easier or quicker. All said and done, its not difficult or rocket science. Except for the flow part! The 1 gallon cans of carb parts cleaner is priceless, actually I do believe its cheaper than sea foam per ounce. It even comes with a small parts tray. Especially the slow jet, it actually needs physical cleaning on the back side. Pipe cleaners and welding tip cleaners work great, and remember to try not scratching the brass orifices. Air works great, try to blow the passages out back wards. There are passages you can clog worse blowing in the direction of normal travel. It is not always just varnish/gum that clogs, the water and what ever else gets in there, grow what appears to be a coral reef of sorts. At that point I would replace what parts are cannibalized by corrosion, they are ruined. Does the kdx have a screen above the fuel shut off? Merry Christmas David! Vintage Bob
Where is this o-ring located at?
I had the same thing with a 2000 that the gas had been sitting in for five years. Removed the carb, tank and petcock and cleaned them out. The petcock required soaking for a long time and beating the dried solid gas out with a wire coat hanger. Put it all back, added a new spark plug and new gas and it fired up and has been runing great ever since.
The part on the list about not taking apart anymore than shown? http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/exppwk.gif . If you take the security screws off, there is an o-ring in there?
