Carb Questions

[Masu]

Greetings from Japan!

I have a 97 KDX 220 SR, I understand that the bike is a Japan only model, and the main diff between the "SR"and the "R" is the that "SR" is auto lube, the "R" is pre-mix, and the carbs. The SR has a stock 28 mm carb, I think the R is bigger, Yes?

I found a carb for sale on Yahoo here in Japan, it is a Kehin PWK 35 with Boysien reeds, the reeds are brand new, still in the package, and the carb is used, but in good nick.

The questions are;

Is this a good carb?

Is it too much for the 220?

Will I loose the auto lube?

The other mods to the bike are a "Twin Air filter, I've removed the "snorkle"from the air-box, and I have an aftermarket pipe, or end"-can, an "RS" pipe, sorry I have no details about the pipe, the bike is new to me and it came that way, this is a Japan only maker of pipes, I think :confused:

I moved the clip down one notch on the needle to make it richer to compensate for the snorkle mod, seems OK, but I have yet to go trail riding on it.

I am getting a set of street rims for this bike, so I can swap between street and dirt. The dirt riding is not too easy to get at, as you may imaging in Tokyo, but when we can get out it is such a blast!

Any info you guys may have on this carb would be great, Oh yeah, it is at about $85 right now, no one is bidding on it, so I can most likely get it for about $100 with shipping, good deal?

Well got to go!

Cheers!

 

[canyncarvr]

Best to get info from a source that knows overseas bikes...that's not me.

That said, the US220 has a 33mm carb. It is a small body PWK Keihin. The US200 has a 35mm carb, same body style. Is that the carb you're looking at?

re: lose autolube?

I know of no autolube system that doesn't use a nozzle from the injection pump into the carb. That being so, if you get a carb made for a premix bike, it won't have the fitting for the nozzle. Might have the boss for it, but no fitting.

re: too much for a 220?

US 220 owners commonly bore the carb to 36mm. That's about the largest bore you can get out of the small body PWK. I know a 200 rider that has run a 39mm large body PWK, but he doesn't ride it on the street!

I'm not familiar with 'RS' pipes.

 

[Masu]

Thanks for the reply :)

I looked and the place where the oil injector is attached it actually on the rubber intake boot that is between the carb and the engine. Now I know that if I went for the 35 mm carb i would have to get a 35 mm intake boot, and I doubt that it would have the oiler boss to attache the oiler too, like the 28 mm intake boot does. Now that being said, if I made a boss could I use the same oiler? I wonder if the oiler is adjustable? I think the setting for the 28 mm carb would be too low. I don't want to lose the auto-lube, call me a wimp, but mixing gas is for bikes that get trailered to the riding place, or guys who have trails to ride close to home. I would have to ride about 1 tank of gas just to get to the trails, then in rural Japan gas stations can be few and far between, and good 2-smoke oil is hard to find, so I'd have to carry it with me.

Maybe I should just stick to the 28 mm for now....

Cheers!

 

[Masu]

Here is the carb on Yahoo Japan.

the page is in Japanese, but you can see the pictures at the bottom....

http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d12985474

 

[canyncarvr]

The filter (inlet) side of the carb in the pic is considerably different than a US carb. It looks like something added on after-the-fact...much smaller than the throat of a US carb.

If THAT fits your bike..and the nozzle is in the boot, then you should be ok. The small body pwk whether in 28mm or different I would think would be the same. The fact that the INPUT side is different makes me wonder, though.

So...does the reed side of the pictured carb match yours? In that case, you could use your boot.

re: adjustment. I'm familiar only with pumps on yamahas (r5 and rd). They are adjustable to the extent that you can change the stroke of the pump. Takes a couple of minutes. If your pump has a cable attached to it...and that cable goes through an adjustment (threaded) device, then you could 'add' more oil by effectively shortening the cable

Don't know about your system.

Still, if the original system was set for anything close to a premix ratio (kawi recommends 32:1), I'd think you'd be fine using it as is. 40:1 is safe. Depending on the oil you use, 50:1 is ok, too.

A useless anecdote:

I used to get 1000 miles (1600km) out of a quart of oil in one of my r5s. The thing ran for 47,000 miles before I ever took the heads off!! Certainly never had any lower end problems. Many people told me it was impossible to get that kind of mileage out of a quart of oil. I just laughed at 'em. My exhaust pipes would dust WHITE after a long ride. The bike ran perfectly.

Good luck

 

[Masu]

Well I went to one of the local parts shop today, first day they have been open this year, and I found the Kehin PWK 35 carb, just like the one on auction, they want $175 for it new. I also found out that it fits on the bike with no mods at all, uses the stock air box and the stock intake boot. Now they say you have to take the intake boot off the bike and lube it real well and then install the boot on the carb, not theother way around, I guess it is a tight fit :)

But it looks like I get to keep the stock air box, intake boot and auto lube, so either way I'll buy the carb, on the cheap at auction ( figure I'll go to $150, it has the reeds, but it is a used carb) or new. Should be an increase in power going from a 28 mm to a 35 mm.

Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted!

Cheers!

 

[canyncarvr]

A word of caution!!!

Be careful with the term 'PWK35'. That's the term I would use to describe my carb, but my carb (US) IS NOT THE SAME AS THE CARB IN THE PICTURE you posted a link to.

The inlet side (airbox side) of the US PWK does NOT have the necked down size. The inlet size of the US carb is the size of pictured carb, BEFORE THE NECKDOWN!

So....If you assume that a 'PWK35' will fit your SR, and call a US model a 'PWK35', you might get something in the future that won't fit your bike!

Did you find out anything about the increased carb size and your existing autolube system? Is your pump adjustable.

Please do drop me a line when you get it set up. I'd like to know how it turns out. I'm sure it would be of interest to the general KDX population, too!!

 

[Masu]

Thanks for the warning, but this is a carb made for race use for the KDX 220 SR, not the"R"

The guy at the parts shop opened the box and read the instructions, I speak and understand Japanese well, but I only read and write a little (heck I married someone who is fluent in that, so why duplicate skills;) ).

The carb is designed to be used with the stock oiler and the stock airbox. It has two sets of jets, one set for running restricted, (air-box) and one for running de-restricked (air-box). The oiler is on the intake boot, and it is not adjustable, but is does not need to be. The instructions say that the oiler works on how much air is passing it, lots of air, more oil, little air, little oil, what is that called, the "Venturie Effect"?

Yes I was thinking about you guys in the US with the "R"bikes who might want a auto lube system, get the Jap spec 35 mm carb, and the stock intake boot, some oiler parts, and your could turn an "R" into an "SR", I think :confused: .

I'll let you know who it works!

Cheers!

 

[kmx125r]

autolube on SR model KDX

Greetings from Manila!

I recently adjusted the autolube output on my bike - KDX250SR.

I had suspected that I wasn't getting enough oil into the mix, so I decided to run a bit of a test. I filled up the gas tank and filled the 2T oil tank to a certain level. Then I took a ride (70km) filled up my gas tank and carefully measured the amount of 2T I needed to add to the oil tank to bring it back up to the original (pre-ride) level. I was suprised to find out that the mix was only 68:1.

While the oil flow into the "intake" boot is metered by the orifice and "pulled" into the flow by the venturi effect, there is still a possibility that there is an insufficient amount of oil available to be "pulled" in...

I checked the cable adjustment on my oil pump and found that it had been tweaked to minimum - I guess the previous owner was trying to save some money! I adjusted it to factory setting (there are scribe marks on the butterfly - one for idle the other for wide open) and now I have a "normal" blue haze following me around. I have not yet repeated my test to see where the mix level is at now, but I'm sure it is much better now! The bike runs great and no sign of oil fouling going on with the plug!

Check out the adjustment of the oil pump cable to be sure your pump is supplying enough oil to be sucked into the mix.

Good luck...

 

[Masu]

Well I don't know how much the same the KDX 250 SR and the 220 SR are, but I have not had a chance to go over the bike with a fine tooth comb. I will very soon.

I'm going by what was writtne in the instalation manual that came with the "KDX 220 SR PWK 35 carb". It stated the the oil pump did not need to be adjusted, so we shall see.

I will try your method of measuring the gas and oil to see what kind of mix I am actually getting, great idea!

Could really save on some engine repairs!

Cheers!

 

[kmx125r]

Kawasaki oil pumps

Hello again Masu,

I think Kawasaki autolube oil pumps are pretty much all the same... I also have a KMX125R and the oil pump adjustment mechanism is exactly the same on both bikes. The pump on the KMX is oriented a bit differently, but otherwise it looks like the same unit.

The KMX was built 1986-1996 for the UK market. They are still marketed in the Philippines as new bikes. My KDX250SR is a 1992 model.

I would be very surprised if the autolube setup on your 220SR is different.

Let me know what you find out...