Cause of governor lever failure???

Just the tip engages. My old one had the same wear marks. I too, would like to see more engagement, but what you have observed is "normal".

It happens often enough that I have to say it is a design flaw.

I've read input from mr. fredette that said (paraphrase), Try to remove or tighten the nut (LH THREADS!!!) without supporting the shaft...and the shaft WILL fail!!

BTW, you CAN access the nut under the cover on the LH side of the engine to actuate the system. With the pipe off, you can look into the cylinder, actuate the system with the nut and observe the main valve and the sub-ports move from 'closed' to 'open'. Also can check the alacrity with which it returns once opened. It shouldn't be slow, mushy or sticky.

I can't say I KNOW it's a good idea based on reading it in the service manual or somesuch. I've done it (actuated the KIPS using the nut on the LH side) quite a few times to no ill effect. The amount of pressure required is negligible. Granted, I wouldn't want that much pressure applied to my nose with a ratchet..but metal-wise it doesn't take much. I've never measured the force required torque-wise.

I've read the same idea from other posters.

None of that means it's a 'good idea' though, does it.

Can't you use the flat on the governer shaft to tighten the LH nut as well? Probably good idea to check the specs on tightening that nut. If you don't have one or don't know, let me know and I'll look it up in my svc manual (if someone else doesn't post it).


re: boyesen in backwards.

I'll admit it. I've done the same thing. I can guarantee you'd find a bottom end improvement even if that was the ONLY thing you changed.

Hey!! It wasn't HARD to put in upside down!! It fit great!!