CGK needle

[paab]

I don't remember who it was that recommended the CGK for my 91, but I tried it out and I think it's a big improvement over the stock needle. Thanks for the tip. I thought I'd pass it along

Where my setting have ended up:
91 KDX200 in MA
stock except modified airbox lid

Main 148
pilot 42
needle CGK with clip in middle groove
Air screw .5 turn out.

Performance is much sweeter than stock jetting. pulls strong and smooth off the bottom and revs out nicely. wheelies with 1/2 turn of throttle in 1st and second. doesn't smoke much or load up badly at low rpms.

 

[m0rie]

Glad you like it! Did you try it in the #2 clip?

 

[G. Gearloose]

That main sounds a touch lean for MA elevations. Especially with the cooler weather. 150-155 is more typical.

The main that worked with the 1173 or 1172 will need recheck, since the different tip diameter will affect main jet flow a little.

Yes, try the #2 clip, reset the AS for best off-idle torque, and the pilot coild be still a little fat, try a 40. The stock needle needed big pilots, not so with these.

 

[paab]

Thanks guys,

I'll go to the 40 pilot next.

I'll try to verify that the main is good with some chops. I think it's allright. It's not detonating. I can't say that I ever really run it wideopen though... I'm used to picking my mains by revs, so I'll have to get used to doing it without the tach.

 

[blackduc98]

What would be a good needle to try for a '97 200 with FMF Rev pipe, delta force reed block, and unmodified airbox lid but with snorkel removed? I'm in eastern MA, so most of my riding is tight rocky single track not more than 1000' above sea level. I've got quite a collection of jets by now as I've been trying to get it dialed in perfectly. Seems like I can't get it quite right with the jets and clip position alone. I am trying to improve low end smoothness. The stock needle is an 1174, and that's what I have in there now (#2 position). I believe 1174 is equivalent to a BEQ?

BTW, my air screw acts kind of peculiar when I try to adjust it with the "fast idle" method. When I make A/S adjustments, it takes a very long time for engine rpm to change. For example, I can turn the A/S out by a full turn, and it might take 30 seconds before rpm rises. Furthermore, turning A/S in the opposite direction by the same amount does not result in rpm drop ... I have to turn it in by almost 2 turns before rpm drops. Any ideas why this is happening?

 

[m0rie]

With the stock carby you should give a CEL or DEL a try in the #3 and #4 clips.

 

[blackduc98]

Thanks, Morie, I'll try the CEL/DEL. I assume that I'll have to go considerably leaner on the pilot jet since the "L" needles have much smaller straight diameter as compared to stock 1174, right?

 

[paab]

I've never paid attention to the #s for the clips, is #1 on top of the needle?

 

[blackduc98]

Yes, #1 is the top groove, i.e. leanest.

 

[m0rie]

You'll want to pickup 38, 40 and 42 pilots for testing.

 

[paab]

Well, I put the stock 150 main back in along with a 40 pilot and tried the cgk on the second clip, but it was too lean on the needle. I went back to the third clip and it was better, but still a little hollow off the bottom. I tried the full range of airscrew settings, and it ran best just at the point where the idle starts to hang (lean). I think it wants the 38 pilot, which I don't have. I may try the needle on the fourth clip for comparison. It seems to want richer needle, leaner pilot...

 

[twocycle]

Just as a reference point. On an 89 I am running a 148, CGQ #4, 38 pilot 17/8 turns out in warm weather. When I ran it in the third position I got a lean condition in the quarter throttle range.

 

[paab]

Thanks for that info...