somthing is goin on here guys. well i had to replace the bolt that holds the pin that engages the clutch. its on the outside of the clutch cover. its the one with the copper washer. well somthing wasant right when i replaced it, my clutch wasant engading. so i took of the clutch cover and noticed the thing that stick out of the clutch with the embeded teetch that the sprocket type thing on the rod that turns when you pull the clutch lever was very loose. whats the problem here i can post a picture if you need it but only if you need it. this is the best explaining i can do im not sure what this is and how to fix it.
Clutch Problems
- Thread starter budhoot
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #3
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/budhoot/Clutch3.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/budhoot/Clutch1.jpg
Ok if youll notice the center part of the clutch theres a piece that sticks out that pulls to engage the clutch. well that piece is moving around freely and seems to be messed up or somthing. well give me your opinions.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/budhoot/Clutch1.jpg
Ok if youll notice the center part of the clutch theres a piece that sticks out that pulls to engage the clutch. well that piece is moving around freely and seems to be messed up or somthing. well give me your opinions.
aussiemarc
Member
- Aug 3, 2006
- 12
- 0
The torque for the clutch spring bolts should be around 24 lbs/ft. The bolts should be flush with the plate and not stick out as a guide as well. Buy a workshop manual for your model/yr.... well worth it if you intend on fixing ur bike in future
I have 03 yz125 and in the manual the piece in the very center of the pressure plate with the teeth on it is called a rack (dont ask me why). It will remain very loose and most of the time will require you to adjust the position of the lever that connect to the cable. I will try to scan the pages and put them up on photobucket for you. Also the bolts that sit over the clutch springs are supposed to be torqued to 10Nm or 7.2Ft-lb.
its supposed to move-just line it up with the clutch housing put it together
and adjust the arm on the top of the case,and the cable at the handle
im assuming that it went together an you didnt re adjust the pull arm ,not a problem i have done that too lol
after it is together pull the arm untill it stops ( without the cable on it )re adjust it on the shaft that goes in the case
then the cable
and adjust the arm on the top of the case,and the cable at the handle
im assuming that it went together an you didnt re adjust the pull arm ,not a problem i have done that too lol
after it is together pull the arm untill it stops ( without the cable on it )re adjust it on the shaft that goes in the case
then the cable
- Thread starter
- #13
problem keeps coming, i got it hooked up and installed the bolt w/ copper washer that holds the rod(that goes into the top of the clutch cover to ingage clutch). Well the hole that, the bolt goes into is stripped. How do i go about getting this fixxed myself? I guess i find a tap w/ the same threads as the bolt? Wow the problems, maybe i can actually ride again after this gets worked out lol.
- Apr 26, 2004
- 1,430
- 0
Ok. When you removed the clutch plate on which the bolts that hold the springs are, did you maintain a pressure lets say with your right hand on your push rod and then press the clutch with your left hand? If so did you feel the push rod pushing on your right hand? Cause if youre pulling the clutch and the push rod isnt pushing then your problem is on the other side of the engine. There's that pin on the left engine side near the sprocket there's the other end of your clutch wire attached to that. Make sure it is properly seated and makes the push rod push.
Hope the explanations were clear! Best I can do.
Hope the explanations were clear! Best I can do.
just a small correction here...the clutch spring bolts shouldnt be torqued at 24 ft-lbs. they should be around 3.3 ft-lbs. not sure if anyone reposted it or not but if you try to out 24# on that lil bolt it WILL break....trust me as my compadre found out the hard way about 2 hrs ago!
i understand that folks here are trying to help but be sure to check with the manual. although there were several choice words flying about along with some headscratching, this is still a good place for info and no ill will intended.
please! check manual or call your local shop to confirm the opinions posted here to avoid circumstances such as this one.
thanks and keep up the good work.
i understand that folks here are trying to help but be sure to check with the manual. although there were several choice words flying about along with some headscratching, this is still a good place for info and no ill will intended.
please! check manual or call your local shop to confirm the opinions posted here to avoid circumstances such as this one.
thanks and keep up the good work.
Bud, here is a link to a downloadable service manual from Yamaha Austrialia.
http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/lib/download.php?f=5NY-28199-30.pdf
I downloaded the one for my YZ85 and it seems to be an exact match for the paper version I paid $60 for.
http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/lib/download.php?f=5NY-28199-30.pdf
I downloaded the one for my YZ85 and it seems to be an exact match for the paper version I paid $60 for.