Clutch Question...Please

[lobe50]

Hi All

I am lucky enough to have a 1994 RM125 that is in absolutely beautiful shape :)

I do notice though
1) that it is almost impossible to find neutral while it is running.

2) that does not like to start while in gear (seems to jump forward)

3) and lastly, it does seem to lung a bit while running, w/ clutch pulled in and you rev it up.

I will have to check, but I think these symptoms are worse as it heats up.

Are these signs of just the need for a clutch kit?
Or is there more to it, like a basket and/or hub assembly??
Thanx

 

[Chili]

If you've got proper freeplay at the lever my guess is the basket and hub is notched up. It will take you less than 20 minutes to find out for sure by pulling the clutch apart.

If you're not certain here are the steps to pull it apart (may vary slightly as I've never pulled apart a 94)

1 - Lay bike on it's left side, I usually put the left side of the bar on a stand so it's not actually laying on the ground.

2 - Remove bolt that holds rear brake on the frame and swing brake pedal out of the way.

3 - Remove clutch cover bolts and then remove clutch cover, if you are careful you likely won't need to replace the clutch cover gasket unless it's stuck on there from years of not being taken apart.

4 - Remove the five bolts and springs that hold the pressure plate on and pull it off.

5- Remove the clutch plates for sake of comfort keep the stack in the same order to reverse for install.

6 - Inspect basket and hub now that everything else is out of the way.

 

[2strokerfun]

Freeplay at the lever: when clutch is disengaged, you should have about 1/8" of play in the lever before it starts pulling the cable.
Also, I always start my bike in neutral. It is normal to be difficult to start in gear.
When clutch plates are worn, you normally have the opposite problem than what you are describing (meaning clutch starts slipping at high speed then slips at all speeds until you just don't move).
As Chili said, problems you described are typically caused by too tight of adjustment on cable or notches in your basket interfering with smooth engament/disengagement of clutch. I've also heard of a too short or worn push rod (a rod in your engine case that actually activates your clutch--it is moved by a cam your clutch cable turns) causing this, but I've never seen it myself.

 

[sr5bidder]

the plates on your clutch may be warped, when the yamahas have this problem replacing the stock plates with moose steel plates works wonders...

 

[lobe50]

Thanks all for the helpful info.
I will pull it apart and take a look.
Hopefully it is not anything too expensive like the basket or hub.....

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

The only thing that doesn't sound normal is that it gets worse at it warms up.

My experience:

Finding neutral:
Easy when engine and transmission are turning the same speed. Like with both are not turning at all. Also easy when both are turning at the same rate, like when just putting along and then trying to shift and getting neutral instead.

Tough to find neutral when they are turning at drastically different speeds, such as engine running and sitting still, or you wait too long on a bump start to shift into gear.

Starting in gear: I have given up trying to start the bike in gear. If I am starting a race I will start up in neutral so that I can get started on the first or second kick, vs kicking it ten time and then shifting to neutral!


My bike is better when it is hot and the oil is thinner. Really cold mornings can be a bear!

Rod

 

[julien_d]

I have all the same problems, as do many dirt bikes. It is most likely notches in the clutch basket, as it is in my case. Unfortunately aftermarket baskets are not available for my bike, and the OEM basket will cost a mint. I'm holding off on filing the notches out as long as possible. ATF Type F seems to produce the least amount of clutch drag for me, but it has to be changed often. Every 2 - 3 rides at least.

 

[duffman]

the basket can be filed easily just remove it use a flat hand file go slow its soft metal. I recently did it to a basket that was notched pretty bad just for curiosity and it worked great no grabbing, starts in gear, easy way to save a few bucks and prolong the clutch life just use common sense and replace if too much material is removed.