Confusion over Fredette Clutch Springs

BRush

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#1
On the Fredette section of the JustKDX website, he recommends stiffer clutch springs P/N 92144-1484. These are springs from a 1990 KX250. I was interested, but when I spoke to Jeff by phone a couple of weeks ago he said that he was recommending different ones now. I said fine, and ordered a set. Fast forward 2.5 weeks. I just got my new plates & spring, but the invoice says that they are 92144-1160, but that's the number for the '97 to '01 stock springs (Kawi changed springs after the '96 model year). So now I don't know if I have stock springs or not. They are definitely heavier duty than my stock '96 ones (92144-1559), but they are also a good deal shorter. The nominal length for new springs, according to the shop manual, is 1.52 inches. These new ones are just 1.4 inches. That nearly a 1/8th in difference. My guess is that the invoice is meant to represent that the springs are intended to replace the Kawasaki 92144-1160 stock springs, but the length thing has me concerned. I have this ugly vision of taking the clutch cover on and off as I play with the pusher plate shims to get the engagement range right. I tried to get Senior Fredette on the phone, but he was not answering and his message machine was full or fubar. I'll keep trying, but I thought someone here could straighten me out.



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96 KDX 200
 

agitt73

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#2
the springs should work because the 95-01
clutch basket is the same all they changed
was the springs and my clutch has never
sliped ive got the t pipe silencer and
wider back tire

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2000 kdx200 2000ktm 50sxpro jr
1980 it425
1983it250
alexis il
 

acutemp

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#3
BRush, I run the 92144-1484 clutch springs in my 95 kdx. I have some new ones on hand also and they measure 1.625" in length. The stockers that I replaced when new, (1 ride) measure the 1.52 that is stated in the manual. The pull is increased quite a bit but I have had no problems with slipage.--Dan

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WoodsRider

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#4
Am I going to have to go over to your house and put that thing back together for you this weekend?

Those springs you have work just fine. Remember this, now that the engine has been "souped up" you may want to replace your clutch springs annually. This is especially true if you abuse the clutch regularly. Any spring that is overheated will lose it's tension.
 

BRush

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#5
Originally posted by WoodsRider:
Am I going to have to go over to your house and put that thing back together for you this weekend?

Only if I can drink beer and make ungrateful comments as you work :). All the parts have finally arrived the cylinder is back in place. My next goal is to get it all back together so I can see whether the new top end is going to run ok or grenade into a million pieces.


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96 KDX 200
(soon to be a 225, or else a bunch of expensive parts scattered all over the trail...)
 

WoodsRider

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#6
Originally posted by BRush:

My next goal is to get it all back together so I can see whether the new top end is going to run ok or grenade into a million pieces.
:eek:

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'98 GasGas EC250
'01 Sponsors: me, myself, I
 
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#7
So BRush,

How'd the clutch job finally end up? What'd you do with the large shim and spring/shim? Off-set the last disk or not? I'm in there now on my son's bike and just want to do the right thing.
 

BRush

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#8
It worked out fine. I finally got ahold of Jeff and he cleared up my concerns about the springs - they are supposed to be shorter. He said I would not have to worry about the engagement shim, just pop the springs in and go - and that turned out to be the case.
The friction disks Jeff set me up with are made by Vesrah (#VC-173) and are intended for 86-99 XR250Rs. They are same thickness as the KDX plate, but have more surface area for a "wider" engagement. I did not reinstall the "coned disk spring" and the seat (these are the two large shim-like things) and I did not offset the last friction plate as per the shop manual. The result has been great, the clutch is very robust, but the pull is not noticeably harder that stock. The feel is different, in that the engagement "window" is narrower - but I like it that way. Oh, and I had Fredette mill the grooves out of my basket - he's got a milling jig set up to do this, and It's a lot cheaper than a new basket.
 
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#9
Did Jeff share with you his thoughts on the "mods". That is leaving out those two large shims (one concave) and not offsetting the last plate? Thanks for replying.
 

BRush

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#10
Originally posted by someday
Did Jeff share with you his thoughts on the "mods". That is leaving out those two large shims (one concave) and not offsetting the last plate? Thanks for replying.
He did not really get into it other than to say it was ok to leave them out. My local dealer, who is also the lead mechanic told me the same thing. As for the offset, there were no good reasons to do it, and and last plate just seem to fit less well in the offset position (I did a fit-up both ways). I have not had cause to regret either decision.
 

BRush

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#12
Great! :cool:

The big thing I notice is how much more torque there is. The low to mid range has really been strengthened.
 

WoodsRider

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#13
... and it's going to get it's first test this Sunday at the Tri-State Enduro! ;)