Ok, I replaced my wearing clutch in october last yr with a hinson basket and ebc clutches. (2000 cr250) Well, it seemed to be a fine setup, but lately it seems that no matter how I adjust the clutch it drags just a little bit. It is not noticable on the road or on hard ground, but anywhere else you can just barely feel it. It bothers me. I took it apart and the fibers look fine, but the plates on the inside,(closest to engine) Seem to be wearing slightly. I really do not want to replace another basket,(which has no wear, the paint has just been wore off a little where the fibers hit in places) and I dont want aluminum plates(stock calls for 2) or kevlar fibers(barnett). I heard someone say that EBC fibers swell sometimes, could this be the problem? WIll it go away? So my question is, has any one run all steel plates and fibers(stock stuff)? for my bike calls for 2 alluminum plates. Is that ok to do? I am a "clutch abuser" and can see I will have the thing wore out by mid summer, and I am If I order the stuff now, I can slap the new stuff in when the EBC stuff goes bye-bye.
Cr owners
- Thread starter Joepro9
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- #5
cable was put on new with the clutch. Although I might replace it again, for it is cheap and can never hurt. I notice it most when I an getting what I call, low traction. (not roads) the bike will not move if turned off with the clutch engaged, it youst too. Some one though maybe its an oil issue(beside slight visible wear I saw we I tore the plates out) The springs were new also, it was a kit, all new stuff. For I forgot I used a different brand of oil that I usually use. I usually use penzoil 10-40 or honda 10-40(dad gets it from work cheap) but I didnt have any and my friend is a castrol freak. He gave me a bottle of castrol 10-40, I rode once before with it in on a previous ride, but it was all roads, and I cannot feel it dragging at all on the road. It puzzles me that it has the visible wear at only this old on the plates. It was not acting like this before, but the only thing I can see now that would be causeing this is the oil, because it kind of "just started"
Anyone run m-12 rear with s-12 front,? this dunlop 606 sucks arse(got it for free)
Anyone run m-12 rear with s-12 front,? this dunlop 606 sucks arse(got it for free)
Different oils do have varying effects on different bikes. Go back to your normal oil and try again...maybe as simple as that. For what it's worth, I run Synthetic ATF in mine and it works perfect.
M12 are good, as are the S12. I like the S12 rear better than the S12 front, but both seem to wear very well. The MS12 works well, but seem to wear faster.
M12 are good, as are the S12. I like the S12 rear better than the S12 front, but both seem to wear very well. The MS12 works well, but seem to wear faster.
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- #8
i would of thought the s would wear faster than the m, thats why i was going to get the M, of course I do alot of roads, that why I though the S would wear faster. I will try my regular oil tomorrow, O gonna feel dumb if that the problem. I also gonna see if my dad can get a case of atf(he works at honda dealer,cars) Why type tho, most pll run f right?
Jim Havins
Member
- Oct 30, 2001
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Joepro...Your problem is not with the oil, it is with the combined length of the actuating rod and collar. It's slightly short...my guess is you have a hard time kick starting while in gear. This might go away as the clutch wears but you can fix it by putting a very small shim inside the collar to lenghten it. It won't take much as close as yours is now, maybe 0.020" would be my guess but it's only guess. I've had to do the same thing twice before on a '99 and an 02. I use key stock, clamp it in a vise, and cut a small sliver off. Use a hard material so that is doesn't crush.........
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- #10
I took out my fibers and soaked them in oil and switched back to penzoil, and the problem seems to be gone. I also went to a 14 tooth front sproket, its hard to get her going without slipping the clutch alot, but after that the gears are longer and in the ares I ride I dont have to shift as mouch, maybe it will help my habit of clutch abusing. :)
On my 2000 CR(E)250 I rebuilt the entire clutch back in July. I replaced the inner hub, outer hub, pressure plate, fibers, steel plates, and springs. All stock parts. A Hinson basket is a nice investment for the CR since they require more clutch abuse to get rolling to start with. CR clutches have a problem with not enough oil getting to the clutch plates, the Hinson parts are drilled and fix that problem. The other way to fix it is not to abuse the clutch. Change the gearing to better suit the terrian your riding. I don't like big gaps between my gears so I used 13/51 tooth gearing and it worked great. I abused the clutch less since I brought the hit on sooner in the gears. I always used ATF type F. (note: DO NOT ever use Mecron/Dexron. They are not the same at all! M/Dexron is slippier and will cause havoc.) I never had a dragging problem with my clutch on any of my bikes. If you didn't replace your springs, replace them. They get sacked out too. I replace them everytime I do a clutch.
