Cracked inner clutch case...

[reepicheep]

I was methodically re-installing the inner and outer clutch cover on a 2001 KDX-220, and got the dreaded $tink when I torqued down the bottom screws.

The kick starter was not binding (kept checking as I was torquing down), the KIPS drive was in the right way, and the case looked (from the higher vantage point where I was installing it from) looked flush before I started torquing (but I could only really see the top).

Taking it back apart, the only thing I could see wrong is that the kickstarter return spring was not pressed all the way into that retaining hole... it was in there, but skewed and not recessed. There was a corresponding "shiny spot" on the inner clutch cover, and the crack was in a place that looked reasonable for pivoting over that spring.

So before I put on the new one ($150 from dealer, $50 on ebay, FWIW), I'd like to make sure I understand for sure how I cracked the old one.

I'll do more debugging later, but in the mean time, I am wondering if anyone else has done or heard of this... I don't want to do it again.

As a side note, while waiting for the new (used) one, I fired up the oxy-actylene rig and broke out some old aluma-weld (harbor freight) I had laying around, and tried patching up the old cover. If you aren't familiar with aluma-weld, its an aluminum brazing product (that might be closer to a weld then a braze, it's hard to tell when you are doing it).

I expected it to be an abysmal failure, but after an hour of fun playing and filing things down, the thing actually looks really good and really strong. I may try bolting it up just for fun and seeing if it holds. I have another on the way, so I don't think I will risk being 10 miles on on a trail and having it let go, but when I started I figured there would be no hope at all, and after trying the repair I am now in the "it's risky but might work" camp... I'll know more when I try torquing it down.

 

[IndyMX]

I've done that on my nephews KX85.. 2 times.

You have to make absolutely certain that EVERYTHING is seated properly before you go tightening the cover. Never try to use the cover to align parts. It won't work.

 

[reepicheep]

I remembered you telling that story, and you popped right into mind the moment I heard that expensive little "tink" noise :(

 

[_JOE_]

Indy's tag line says it all.......

 

[reepicheep]

I don't disagree with the quote, but don't underestimate the number of ways the design of that cover can bite you in the ass... I'm on my second rebuild now (KDX-220 for a friend), and I have probably had that cover off 15 times now, and got it back on without breaking anything 14 times :(.

So I found the latest problem test fitting my aluma-welded (like brazing, with maybe a little bit of weld) cover back on, and figured out the problem...

Add one more thing to the "what can be wrong" list when you reassemble this stupid thing... somehow the shifter assembly had worked its way outward, and instead of just retracting back to where it is supposed to be (it rides on a flat surface on that cover), it bound up.

From every part you can see, it looks like the case has fit, and you pop out your trusty torque wrench and start following the manual until you hear "tink". :( You literally have to lay the bike all the way over on its side to see under there to tell if that bottom corner (obscured very effectively by the frame) is flush, or 1/16 of an inch out.

So anyway, one more thing for people to keep in mind to avoid my mistake.

Off the top of my head, here are all the stupid little things to not screw up when putting that side back together. What an awful design...

1) Washer and shim behind clutch hub.
2) Index mark on kick starter assembly.
3) Several stupid little shims and spacers and springs on kickstarter assembly shaft.
4) Kips advancer white gear sticking out of cover towards case (it looks fine in either way, but won't engage if backwards).
5) White nylon collar over kickstart return spring must have notch over spring.
6) Spring end must be in case deeply seated (it will often pop half out when you try and maneuver that case cover edge around the extra glob of sloppy weld on the frame that catches it).
7) Mysterious shim that goes behind kickstarter assembly, and sticks invisibly to case when you remove assembly, but inevitably pops off the moment you look away.
8) Pawl engagement on upper kips gear. And that gear must be all the way one direction before assembly. No index mark or anything... you gotta just not screw it up.
9) You forgot to put the gasket over the pawl before putting on that inner cover, which means you have to pull it back apart, or cut that gasket to put it on, which will make it leak.
10) Make sure shifter on other side of case is fully "out" and not partly in and binding.
11) When fitting everything back together, remember you have to assemble it, then rotate the clutch assembly slightly to get the water pump and kips gears to engage correctly before it will seat, at which point the spring in the kickstarter will probably pop partially back out.
12) Oh look. That washer in the bottom of your parts tray is the one that should be behind the kickstarter.
13) Even when assembled right, sometimes the return spring will bind up or click over when being tensioned.
14) Yup. The stupid little washer behind the clutch cover that makes the clutch lever arm sweep through 90 degrees needs to be removed.

Anyway, thanks for letting me vent. :nener:

 

[IndyMX]

The shift lever is what bit me the second time.. First time it was the kick start bushing. (the little nylon one)

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Does the kick starter mechanism have a pawl, that you have to preload, push in and engage, all the way at the back, hard to see? Reep, I remember a lot of them issues! Patients, a good shop manual, a plan or use the manual on what goes in and when, and the patients thing again. Lock the garage door, and no drinking till its done!