That does make sense - to me anyways. I really don't think this is my problem, but I am going to check for it tonight. My Oil (ATF) is clean, I see no signs of leakage on the left. For some reason I started fouling plugs...hopefully it was really just bad fuel.....
Thanks for the tips though, I needed a reason to fiddle some more in my garage:) Have a nice weekend, all!!!!
Its a 2000 KDX 200, in Wisconsin (below 1000 ft I think)
I can not find any signs of a bad seal, so I did just what you said, took the carb apart and cleaned it. No sign of anything major, a few specs in the float bowl, but that's it. I switched needles again, went back to the stock 1174 (mid clip)versus the 1173 (2nd from top) bumped the main up to 155 (from 152), pilot is a 45.
I know this sounds backwards, but the 152 ran great in the summer at 80 to 90 degrees, plug looked just a tad rich at the time, I figure with the temps around 60 its time for an adjustment. No plug chop today (not enough room), I'll just have to fly by the seat of my pants, as usual. I really hope the plug fouling was due to bad gas... Will find out Sunday as I am running a HS in Illinois with a new batch of fuel. I will carry my fanny pack and a few plugs...just in case.
Well, this was a bust. The needle change back fired big time. I ran a HS on Sunday, and this bike never ran so poorly before. Decent of the bottom, great on the main, but everything in between was blubber city;) to the point where I had to completely change my riding style, just to be able to make it over some of the obstacles.To top it off, the fuel range changed and I ran out after about 35 miles, granted, 35 extremely challenging miles, but still...
So, back to the 1173 needle it is.... would like to try the CEL, but have not been able to find one in stock yet.
BTW no signs of any type of a crank seak leak...:)
One of the best ways to test for a bad seal is doing a leakdown test on the motor,most bike shops can do this for you if you do not have the tools. If I had a way of posting a picture(please post a picture of one if you can) I would gladly show everyone how to make a set up for doing this,sorry I live in the middle ages,so I can only decribe what it looks like .You can make a simple one by using 2-expandable frost plugs one that fits in the exhaust port the other in the carb holder(or a plug made of plastic) The hard part is to make a adapter to pressurize the motor,2 ways of doing this, first requires a old hollowed out spark plug a T- fitting with a low pressure dial gauge and a shraider(sp) valve,the thing you pump air into to inflate tires,assembled the unit looks like a T when threaded into the spark hole, this will usually require a welder to put together.Or you can leave the plug alone and forget about the carb plug and make a plate up that you mount in place of the reed cage with again a gauge and valve,just drill and tap one hole for the gauge(pipe thread)and another hole for a bolt in valve(usually used on aluminium rims).You pressurize the motor to 8-10 psi(with a bike pump NOT A AIR COMPRESSER) and spray(with a mix of water and dish soap) the areas you think a leak is at, take the ignition cover and flywheel off and spray the seal, to test the right side you can simply spray the end of the tranny vent hose.
I see you are running ATF as a tranny fluid ,one good thing about it is it smokes like a 70's Chevy Vega when it is burnt in the engine.