Delta Force reed valve instal issue.

[BJH]

Ok so I'm installing my new Delta Force reed valve and I ran into an issue. The stock reed cage had a triangular shaped solid white plastic block inside it The block has a round hole through it. I assume that this was in there to keep a steady port velocity under the reed petals. My problem is that this white plastic triangular block doesn't fit inside the Delta Force 2 reed valve. In the instructions it has optional directions to cut a similar shaped item off the stock reed plate. To make a long question short...Do I 86 the triangular shaped block, or modify it slightly to fit inside the Delta Force reed valve?

Where for art though CC?

 

[KAY DEE EXER]

Im certain that you dont use the stock plastic thingy. Im pretty sure you have to cut a little tang / tongue / thingy off the rubber boot. I may be wrong though, its 4.30am and my instructions are locked in the garage. Yooooohoooo CC....

 

[Wolf]

Man, I can't remember about the rubber tang thingy, but I am certain you don't use the white plastic block. Yoooo, CC......

 

[motorider200]

Lose the white thing and I didnt cut anything on mine.

 

[canyncarvr]

Yep. Lose it.

Well, keep it with your oem reeds as part of that assembly.

Remember the labeled tang on the DF faces down on install.

How did you setup your reed stops?

In order to fit the oem block to the DF you would have to destroy the DF. Hope you didn't start THAT process. ;)

Have fun!

 

[BJH]

Thanks guys, I did in fact toss the block in the bag with the stock reed cage. The DF was installed with the tang face down. I set the reeds at high tension, but I may play with that. What are your reccomendations on the tension settings?

FYI - 03' KDX 220R current mods >**FRP ported cylinder** FRP shaved and modified cylinder head** FMF Gnarly rev pipe with Turbine Core2** RB fully modified carb** Wiseco piston** and of course the DF2 reed valve** That's about all I know to do. Went from bone stock to wide open :) I'm very anxious to kick life into it this weekend.

 

[canyncarvr]

That's one of the things I like about the DFII....you can tune it however you wish.

There are two (well, were last time I bought replacements) different tensions of reeds AND you can set the reed stops to hi/lo also. I tried the 'hi' tension reeds. Didn't like 'em. I run a -30 (rev) pipe on my 200 and the DFII is a large part of why it works off-idle. And it works good, too! Better'n I ever got my -35 to run.

It would be worth it to try both, imo. Talk to jeff @ MT to make sure you get the right stuff. When you compare them side by side you can see an obvious difference in the structure of the reeds..the crosshatch is obviously differently sized one from the other.

Anyway, I run lo tension reeds with the stops set to lo, too. Theoretically that isn't supposed to have the longevity of the higher tension reeds....but I don't care. They easily last a year (in my case)..and that's good enough for me.

Find that #2 sweet spot on the air screw! Don't quit until you do. It's a huge benefit..well worth hunting for. Start about 2.5 turns out, turn it no more than 1/16 at a time. Look for a big change in 3rd gear pull at lower speeds to about 1/2 throttle and an off-idle bottom that is a joy to ride!

If you didn't get the finger-adjustable air screw...get one.

Have fun!

 

[motorider200]

Went from bone stock to wide open :) I'm very anxious to kick life into it this weekend.

Wow, I bet you are that should rip.

I run my reeds in the high tention setting because I like the top end.

 

[BJH]

Thanks for the info CC. I saw that finger adjustable air screw while doing searches for an answer to this thread before I posted it. It looks like a must have ;)