I read the thread in the 4 stroke section about freezing pipes and was wondering if it will still work for 2 strokes. I have about a 3 inch dent in the middle of my fatty pipe and wanted to know how much water to put in and if i should cover the ends? If anyone could help that would be great.
does Freezing work for 2 stroke pipes?
- Thread starter bigzuMER
- Start date
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,510
- 19
if you were going to do it, I'd say you'd want to fill the pipe full.
The worry I'd have is whether or not it is going to split the welds.
You shouldn't have to seal the ends if you have a freezer big enough to put it in, unless you have to set it a way where the water will come out because of how you lay the pipe in. I would think you would want the dent facing up . . .
The worry I'd have is whether or not it is going to split the welds.
You shouldn't have to seal the ends if you have a freezer big enough to put it in, unless you have to set it a way where the water will come out because of how you lay the pipe in. I would think you would want the dent facing up . . .
2strokerfun
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- May 19, 2006
- 1,500
- 1
Sometimes it works. Sometimes it just splits the pipe.
TRexRacing
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- Jul 23, 2002
- 440
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Freezing stamped pipes is dangerous. If left too long it will pop the seams. The ice starting to push out the ends is a good thing to watch. I always tape it to hold in the water, and watch it pop. How fast it freezes depends on your freezer. Fill a plastic milk jug with water and time it? The pipe will take longer. You have to fill the entire pipe. Tape the head pipe, fill it, roll it to make sure all the air is out. Seal it and throw it in. Welded pipes are a lot stronger, no seams are the best! I have left an sst in over 10 hours, no issues.
flyingfuzzball
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- May 10, 2007
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thats odd if must have not been filled all the way or the water didnt freeze totally. when the water freezes it has to expand and thus the pipe has to expand.
ignition retard
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- Dec 8, 2007
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gthoma23 said:
Check to make sure the water didn't leak out the ends when it started to freeze, (there will be a frozen puddle in your freezer). Also make sure there was no trapped air inside.
This process definitely works, it will probably split open any welded seams before it pushes all the dents out though.
How did you cap it? Did you roll the pipe over to get ALL the air out? Did the ice push out both ends? If not, you erred. And if 15 hours did not freeze enough to push out, try 20 hours.
I've removed dents from a two-stroke pipe using heat and compressed air with excellent results. I have an FMF Fatty pipe with a "half of a tennis ball" sized dent in it. Since a new pipe is $200 and I still have my stocker, what would be the harm in trying it. This method works like a charm.
Here is what I did:
-Take an old tube and cut the valve stem out, leaving enough material so you have a 6 inch circle with the valve stem in the center.
-Fold the material over the stinger end of the pipe and secure with two hose clamps. One at the end, and one about 1/2 an inch down.
-Make 2 or 3 eight inch circles from your donor tube. Fold them over the "head end" of the pipe and secure with hose clamps. I used two clamps again.
-Fill the pipe with 30-40 pounds of air. (More would be very dangerous) The head end bulged a little. So I wraped it loosely in a shop towel in case it popped.
-Heat the dent up until glowing red, I used a propane torch (The kind used to solder water pipes). Slowly heat from one side of the crease towards the center of the dent. Working your way around the perimeter towards the center.
-Slowly but surely the dent came out, about 5 minutes.
-I wore a face sheild and welders gloves.
-I kept the dent facing away from my body (in case of an explosion)
-I constantly monitored the air pressure with a pressure gauge.
-I only needed 35 lbs of air.
If you give this a try, just be safe. I had a fire extinguisher handy.
Good luck, Steve.
Here is what I did:
-Take an old tube and cut the valve stem out, leaving enough material so you have a 6 inch circle with the valve stem in the center.
-Fold the material over the stinger end of the pipe and secure with two hose clamps. One at the end, and one about 1/2 an inch down.
-Make 2 or 3 eight inch circles from your donor tube. Fold them over the "head end" of the pipe and secure with hose clamps. I used two clamps again.
-Fill the pipe with 30-40 pounds of air. (More would be very dangerous) The head end bulged a little. So I wraped it loosely in a shop towel in case it popped.
-Heat the dent up until glowing red, I used a propane torch (The kind used to solder water pipes). Slowly heat from one side of the crease towards the center of the dent. Working your way around the perimeter towards the center.
-Slowly but surely the dent came out, about 5 minutes.
-I wore a face sheild and welders gloves.
-I kept the dent facing away from my body (in case of an explosion)
-I constantly monitored the air pressure with a pressure gauge.
-I only needed 35 lbs of air.
If you give this a try, just be safe. I had a fire extinguisher handy.
Good luck, Steve.
flyingfuzzball
Member
- May 10, 2007
- 957
- 0
the presure way works i have one friend who dents his pipe every time we go riding and thats how he does it.
