ol'89r said:In answer to your question, if you wait until your valves close up enough to where the bike won't start, you have already done damage to your engine. The valves need a certain amount of clearance inorder for the oil to get in between the cam and buckets. If the required spec's are .006" clearance and you only have 003" clearance, the bike will start but when it warms up to operating temp the metal will expand from the heat and the .003" will close up to -0. When this happens the valves do not close all of the way and it will burn the valve and seat. Running the bike like this will result in the head of the valve breaking off of the stem and doing great damage to the engine. It also forces the oil out from between the cam and buckets resulting in destroying the cam and buckets from running without oil in between them. Basically metal on metal.
Learn to check them yourself. Like Nikki said, it's easy to check them and your manual explains it very well. It's a little more difficult to adjust them but if you keep checking them you will know when it is time to have them adjusted. You can also determine your own maintainance schedule and how often or how many hours to check them after you do it a few times. Buy an hour meter and start recording the hours on the engine. That is the only accurate way to keep track of the hours. If you are only trail riding you should be able to go longer than the recommended times in the manual since those are worst case, (pro racing) recommendations.
Hope that helped.
nikki said:You can check the valve clearances yourself. It is a pretty easy job, and takes about an hour from start to finish (as long as you have the right tools). If your valves are still in spec with the manual, then there is no need to adjust/reshim them. We have checked the clearances on all of our four-strokes every 10-20 hours, or if the bikes ever get hard to start. We've currently own an '06 CRF 250 and 450, and have previously owned an '02, '04, and '05 CRF 450, and an '03 YZ 250F. Luckily we have never had to reshim, but if you do have to, it's pretty easy to do yourself. If you have to reshim often, then you should replace your valves/springs, which gets a little more difficult.
As for piston/rings, we usually do rings every 20-30 hours, and a piston every other ring change. We've also replaced the timing chain as general maintenance after 2-3 seasons.
MX GZR said:Nope sure don't. learn to do it your self $100 to $200. It's not hard , just need a manual and some basic skills
:ride:
jesse_54 said:I didn't think you could rebuild the top end for that much on a 4 stroke.
you need to find a service manual, not just the owner's manual. I'm sure Clymer makes one by now.J-man said:. . . my manual just does not work for me and there is also nothing in it about how to ADJUST VALVES.
I commend you for taking the time to get an education in this matter and doing everything you can to learn how to do it yourself :)J-man said:. . . the guy at the honda dealer said he will show me how to do it if i help him do his in a couple weeks.
J-man said:i have the service manual and i went threw it again today to see if i missed a page and then i saw that the page for adjusting valves was gone along with a few more pages to help do engine work. but the guy at the honda dealer said he will show me how to do it if i help him do his in a couple weeks. now i can actually lear it by watching instead of just reading about it. anyway thanks for everything guys
He's not old enough to buy proper appreciation, Joe!_JOE_ said:. . . Just make sure he knows how much you appreciate it.
XRpredator said:He's not old enough to buy proper appreciation, Joe!
I'm sure the guy would settle for a six pack of root beer and a couple pizzas. ;)
J-man said:well my dad owns the Ben and Jerrys ice cream store that is down here so we brought him a quart of that. I also swept the shop up for him and put all the tools back.