drain plug hole threads stripped - husky cr125

[richy]

Got a used 2004 husky cr125. When I pulled the tranny drain plug to change the oil - out came some aluminum thread. Was able to use once - but noe she is good and stripped. Is it better to heli-coil or tap one size bigger. I noticed there are jhole on each side of the threads for oil drainage. This really stinks. :think:

Thanks

Rich

 

[Trashrider]

Rich,
I would recommend a Heli-coil. However, it might be some odd-ball size that is not available from Heli-coil. If that is the case, drill and tap for a pipe plug. A one quarter npt should be big enough. I am a machinist/ welder by trade and have done this a thousand times and never had a failure. Work slowly and carefully; you will have no problems. This really is a simple job. Good luck.

Mark

 

[richy]

thanks!
It looks to be 14mm - coarse tread (pipe thread?)

 

[Trashrider]

Rich,
I doubt if it's pipe thread. Pipe thread is tapered, so the more you torque it the tighter the seal. This eliminates the need for a washer or gasket. My Husky WR 250 uses a washer for the drain bolt.I will be changing my gear oil this week, I can id the exact diameter and thread pitch for you. I would think the 250 and 125 share the same drain bolt? Measure the bolt in inches and multply by 25.4 to convert to mm's. I am old school, I still use SAE measuring.

Mark

 

[84cr125flyer]

I'd go with the insert as well. It's stronger than aluminum alone. Just some information as a side note Pipe thread can be straight, there are two forms straight and tapered (3/4" taper per foot) To ensure you get the correct kit, measure the outside diameter and count threads per mm (0.8, 1.0, 1.25, and 1.5) you should be able to purchase a kit to fix it or have your local Machine Shop do it for you. I bought a kit for my bike at www.travers.com and the price was pretty reasonable, look for Recoil, it's from Australia and of very good quality.

 

[richy]

ordered from travers

14 X 1.5 thread - tough sucker to find around here. Travers had it in stock. I also bought a new oem plug since the old was somewhat rounded. Any secrets besides plenty o grease? I looked in there and there wouldn't be much meat to tap to next size. I'd like to be able to keep the lower drain holes that are drilled through the original threads, But that may be a tough feat.

Thanks!

Rich
------ :)

 

[84cr125flyer]

You may not have to drill at all into the case, it may be very close to what the tap drill size is. When you go to tap the case, coat the tap in grease, it will do two things, lubricate the tap and keep the metal shavings from falling into the case. After you install the insert, you'll want to torque the drain bolt to the proper spec, it shouldn't be too high since I'd bet it uses a copper washer. I would suggest after you put new oil in to ride it around, not too hard, to get the oil flowing and also to bring it up to operating temp about 10 - 15 mins, stop, drain the oil while it's still hot and once again install the oil drain bolt torqued to spec and re-fill with your favority lube. This will allow any metal shavings that weren't caught by the grease to be flushed out of the case. That should do it, you'll be ready to rock-n-roll. Hope this helps.

 

[richy]

Well I put the recoil in the drain plug all went well... Only problem I had was either the drill or the tap did not keep the hole straight - the screw had a small gap on one side which would have been a sure leaker. After cursing and cursing more I took a dremel with a small cutting wheel and using the flat section started machining away at the high spot. Got it near perfect and though I have not run it yet It seems to be holding the oil. I believe the cause of the stripped threads was that the previous owner had reused the crush washer one too many times (it was twice the size) forcing him to tighten the steel plug into the aluminum way to much to create a proper seal.

 

[84cr125flyer]

Glad to hear it all worked out. :cool: Time to go :ride:

 

[SFO]

justa fyi, most drains are the same thd as a sprkplug.
Most shops still carry timecert sparkplug repair kits.

 

[84cr125flyer]

FYI it's a "Timesert" not timecert.

http://www.timesert.com/index.html

 

[richy]

wasn't same thread as spark plug

It was a 14x1.5. Helicoil worked fine. I never had much luck with solid inserts.

 

[Norman Foley]

Timesert is much nicer and you don't have that stupid "tit" to drop into your motor.

 

[84cr125flyer]

Since the hole is larger enough, you can reach inside with a pair of small needle nose pliers and carefully twist the "Tang" off.