Entering the fray: GasGas EC200

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#1
Well I’ve bought an ’02 in the weekend (some ‘orrible person gave me a go on one a few weeks back so had to buy one, I love it! :) ) & already I’ve tried to drown it & myself in the process - Damn short legs. (half day Monday so I could ride the thing for the first time).

Haven’t even taken the seat off yet but a cursory peak through the box cover sighted some air gaps as the walls seem to be dependant on the sidecover. There is no separate airbox as such.

EEK!

What is it with these Spanish? :think: I own a GasGas 200 Trials bike & it has a proper airbox, but it is distinguished by the fact that you can’t get into it by just undoing the cover screws. The screws thread into a tube that is bolted on the other side so it spins. You have to reach some multigrips through the entry to hold the tube.
Gaa!

Back to the EC.

Any thoughts re sealing the walls a bit more effectively?
 

JTT

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#2
Hey David, congrats on great bike! I have a buddy with a 2002 EC200 and have spent considerable time on it and loved it! Main reason I finally stepped up and got a new EC250 for myself. :thumb:

Regarding the airbox, remember that the access door is a "twist lock" fastener on the side of the box...nothing much your going to seal there :(, except maybe some weather stripping. Also the box breathes through to small openings at the front and top of the box as well. The "air gaps" you are referring to I am guessing are on the right side and fender junction? I suppose you could seal them up a little better, but it might be kind of like stopping water from a strainer ;)

That said, it's far better sealed than my old CR. :eek:

Was the bike new or used? If you don't already have the LTR power valve cover and "jet kit" I would recommend it highly. Really helps the bottom to midrange. The "jet kit" is mainly a "special" needle (unmarked) that LTR makes up for these bikes and it actually does work.
 
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#3
Yeah the hole between the sidecover had me a little concerned. MX bikes aren’t expected to take river crossings as often as enduro bikes.

Was thinking of some sealing strip to slow incoming water.

The bike was used, owned by a chap with a shop & well looked after.

Had changed the jetting on main & pilot much the same as suggested on UK GG site & it seems flawless. Having said that I have hardly put it through its paces in gnarly terrain.

Have you tried the powervalve cover/jet kit on your 250 or is this on your friend’s 200?

Haven’t looked to see how the powervalve works, but on KDX etc the cover area is just used to disrupt the wave returning at the wrong time (closed off when pipe in tune) so its volume is hardly critical. Perhaps the GG one works differently or if the jet kit was done at the same time it might have seemed better?

Just strikes me that the factory would have tried a few different volumes to come up with the final design & it is an easy part to manufacture & sell aftermarket. Course I could be wrong & it is a good improvement.
 

JTT

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#4
I have the PV cover and jetting on my 250 but also installed it and tried it on the 2002 200. I am naturally sceptical (and a believer that stock is usually best), so did just the jetting first, tried it, then added the PV cover.

On my 250 the jet kit wasn't a huge improvement, but crispened up the midrange a little, maybe :think: . The PV cover made a pretty significant change in the bottom end though.

On the 200, the jet kit alone made the bike much "punchier" in the midrange (pretty dramatic change too)...almost MX like. Fun, but not as nice in tight woods. When the PV cover was added it boosted the bottom end up, so there was less of a transition to the midrange and smoothed out the "hit" or punchiness.

The power valve cover seems to work very similar to the older style Honda CRs, in that increasing the volume helps improve bottom, but likely sacrifices some top end (although not terribly noticable, to me at least).

If you like a punchy motor, I would suggest the jetting kit alone. If you want basically a little more or what you already have, go for both. I found the extra bottom/mid with both allowed me to run almost a gear taller in most places.

As I said, the "jetting kit" is mainly a special needle (seemingly leaner). In fact, I found on both bikes, that the main was too lean for our conditions, as the kit comes. I am still sorting out the jetting on my 250, as it is still not perfect with or without the "kit"
 
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#5
Thanks, well worth considering. I’ll be riding it this weekend & for a 2 day event the following so will be better able to assess the power. First ride it seemed pretty snappy & I was thinking how could it be better? Well maybe a little more bottom end, but would that just make the rear end break traction? Sometimes a little dead is good right at the bottom. Heck what would I know?

Seems like a reasonable price but will be somewhat more by the time I got it here. Could just machine up an spacer for the existing cover. Could just ride it first too. :)

I see you have a 280 as well, haven’t laid eyes on a Pro. Are their airboxes as miserable as the earlier GG trials bikes like my ‘00?
 

JTT

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#6
I haven't had any problems with my airbox, but I don't ride in alot of water. ;) Filter access is MUCH better on the Pros than previous models for sure...one little hatch with one screw. The factory sealing job is crap, but with resealing, it seems pretty tight. They even put a little "umbrella" peice incase any water got in through the top access cover...I'd still tape it up if it was real wet though. Nothing is perfect I guess ;)

In case you haven't come across it yet, HERE is a great site for referance materials and cross matching parts.
 
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#7
I have a 02 xc200.

The airbox was my biggest @@@@@ when looking over the bikes fit and finish.What I did was use Scotch 130c.It is a rubber tape used in High voltages splices.It comes in a roll and is 2 inches wide.

I removed the seat and sealed the airbox from the inside.Then used an extra sticky duct tape over that.

I service the airfilter by removing the seat.Kind of a pain.But worth it to keep water out.

The past few weeks have been very wet here.I have had the bike up to the tank many times with no problems

The xc has less flywheel weight than the e.c.I have an ltr jet kit and powervalve cover.I find that the midrange definittly has a mid range hit not uncontrolable though.It has been a lot more noticable in the extra wet conditions.I am about to experiment with some flywheel weight.

I have never rode an ec so I dont have a good comparisonand .But my bike has been valved for my weight and for new england woods.It seems to be happeist when riding agressivlly.I was out for a 3 hour ride today with my son so it was a slow ride.At that pace the bike can beat me up.But pass him,start running hard in 3rd gear,as apposed to idle in 1 and 2nd and it soaks up ever rock (we have a lot)and becomes much more stable.

I am running 107 mm of sag with the forks up 7 mm in the clamps.It is very stable and turns great.

I love this bike

Ed
 

T-Bone

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#8
Hey David , I have a LTR needle for your 200 , bought a 250 befor I put it in my 200. sell it to you cheep if you want . just send me a letter if your intrested .
 

JTT

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#9
Good tip Ed! Thanks! I beleive the XC also runs more ignition advance and higher compression too, so that might be another area to consider, as well as flywheel. I know that GG lists several thicknesses of base gasket for most bikes.
 
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#10
I ride the '01 XC 250. I've had the bike for 2.5 years and have had plenty of river crossings and mud fests. I have inspected the air box several times and have noticed that it drains realy well. I don't worry about the gaps in the air box. I would however be hesitant about sealing them unless I was prepared to re-jet. I may be wrong but it would seem that restricting the air flow could affect performance.

(1) Make sure you check your linkage and swingarm bearings for proper greasing. (2) On your throttle cable close to the stearing stem is the beginning of an outer sheath. This sheath terminates at the top in the brass fitting at the top of the carb. Water ran down mine into the carb everytime I did a thorough washing. I sealed the beginning of this sheath with hi-pressure plumbers tape (the black stretchy kind). (3) Check the upper pipe mount bolt at the gas tank. Some were too long and can where a hole in your tank. I used a hack saw. (4) Throw that side panel quick access pin away before you lose it and use a J-nut and bolt. (5) Check out www.smackovermotorsports.com (6) Enjoy your fine woods machine!
 
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#11
Thanks for the advice I check a few of those things tomorrow. Re sealing the sides I’m sure the open top would more than compensate for sealing the sides a little better.

Having stayed in the garage till the early hours this morning messin around setting preload & moving controls etc, I sure don’t appreciate some of the choice of fasteners & the fact they don’t have captive bolts.

The subframe is prime example, those tiny 8mm bolt head with a large 8mm thread rounded even with my Kokoen(sp) T bar & I had to use multi grips & undo the nut from the back, I ground big flats on those heads so I can use a 14mm next time.
 

JTT

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#12
I agree David, I hate those little "quik clip" fasteners, but you do kind of get used to them after a while. Speaking of fasteners, check the lower rad shroud bolt that screws to the radiator. They use a little insert affair for a nut. The screw has been known to corrode in the nut, then when you try to remove it, you twist the insert and cannot get it apart. A little anti-seize or grease on the threads is a worthwhile effort.
 
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#13
Thanks JTT will grease those bolts, they are fine presently. Sharp -a special thanks re the upper pipe mount. The bolt was not too long but there was evidence of the captive nut chewing into the tank. I fashioned a small piece of nylon, drilled a hole in it & forced it over the sharp end so it can not continue again & would warn other GG users to do the same.
 

Humai

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#14
Originally posted by David Trustrum
I’ll be riding it this weekend & for a 2 day event
I might see you there. Look out for a ratty bare-bones three bike trailer with a 44 gal drum welded to the drawbar - that's us!