Every Mod ever done??

[SADude]

Here are some of the mods I have done so far:

UFO Plastics & Maier Rear Fender , Pro Taper Handle Bars, Bark Busters, UFO Frame Guards, Hyde Bash Plate, Modified Air Box Lid, Fork Guards (PVC Pipe), Armadillo Header Pipe Guard, 10 Weight Fork Oil, Gutted Standard Header, Kawasaki 0.37kg/mm Fork Springs, 14/48 sprockets, FX Gripper Seat Cover, Boysen Reed Valves, Re-jet Carb 168/48, FMF Gnarly Header, FMF Powercore 2 Silencer, IRC Heavy Duty Tubes.

There has to be more to make it go like an aeroplane, bolt on mods and Engine or Carb work are welcome.

Looking forward to the responses.

Cheers
Paul

 

[1tontj]

Send your head and carb to RB designs - you will not be dissapointed!

Phil

 

[dirt bike dave]

Get a steering damper. It won't help you go faster in a drag race, but it will sure help you go faster on a trail. Plus you will crash less, so lower chance of injuring you or your bike. And you can transfer it to your next bike.

In case you could not tell, I like steering dampers!

 

[SADude]

I may be getting a RB Design Carb done through a friend of mine in the US as I am in South Africa. What does RB do to the head? Please can you recommend a couple good steering dampers.

Come on there must be other stuff????

 

[m0rie]

How about a Moto Tassinari DF3 reed cage? Flywheel weight? Racetech Gold Valves for the Forks?
Ron reworks the squish band on the head and ups the compression a bit.

 

[1tontj]

Oh, yeah - you have no stabilizer, then buy that first. I have a Scott's and LOVE it. It is more important than carb and head mods (or anything else to make more power).

Another thing that I really love on my KDX is the auto-clutch from EFM.

Phil

 

[Jim Crenca]

If the above doesn' do it for you, you've got the wrong bike

 

[SADude]

You know Jim, you may just be right there, but due to financial constraints I will have to stick with my KDX for a while and do mods or my wife my just kick me in the you know where. I bought the KDX 9 months ago, it is the first bike I have ever owned, to say that I have got used to the power is an understatement, I am a 210lbs at 5'10" and have always been athletic, within 3 months of riding I was already doing stuff to the bike to make if fast and more powerful, my friends all say just get a 250, but that won't happen for another 2 years at least, so in the mean time I will have to do with what I have.

Thanks for all the input, if there is anything else, do not hesitate to let me know.

Cheers

Paul

Regards

 

[1tontj]

Well the stabilizer will make you MUCH faster without needing any more engine power.

Phil

 

[Tom L]

Is that pipe a Rev or Torque??? Put a Rev on for more MX - Like power. Get the cylinder ported for maximum top end high rpm power, and get the RB Carb mod. Try 13/52 sprockets for major SNAP power. The bike will wheelie like crazy, even in 4th gear!!! Basically, do everything to increase top end high rpm power. That will maximize straight line acceleration and speed, making it very MX-like. Put in the DF3 reed system set at high tension. Advance the timing maybe for a bit more snap.

 

[nrvs-nelly]

The sterring stabilizer is a definite. It gives you the confidence to be able to step it up a notch without fear of deflection. Well worth the $$$. Not to mention the safety aspect.

 

[SADude]

I do tail riding only, no MX. I do a lot of technical stuff, big hill climbs with erosion ruts and a large variety of conditions. I rode this weekend and took a tumble and cracked my side cover of a rock, so I will have to see it that before I do anything else.

Thanks for all the input.

Paul

 

[m0rie]

Paul - If its the magneto side cover (left side) i'd just JB Weld it and get on with things...

-Maurice

 

[Fred T]

way too much money in it

I had a 2000 KDX 220 with the following mods.
1.MX tech shock revalved and had the shock body hard anodized.
2. MX Tech front forks with .42 springs, revalved, midvalves added and rebound adjustment added on top cap
3. FMF KG 30 pipe and S/A
4. RB carb bore
5 boyesan power reeds
6.wiseco piston and rings
7. WER steering dampner
8. Fredette solid bar clamp and renthal bars
9.Rad braces
10. Michelin tires/HD tubes
11. Enduro engineering Hand Guards
12. FMF graphics and seat cover
13. Trail Tech Speedo/ODO

Thats all I can remember. The guy that bought it still has it and it's running great. I sold it in 2003

 

[MY KDX 220 R]

Hi Paul.

Just installed the Airstryker, what a difference in the type of power, not as much of an impact as the pipe (rev). - but very noticable, 'specially with the mixture screw.

I will have my old carb sent to RB as soon as I can ($), and have it on it's way.

I realized with the new power rubber is prime #1. Bought some Michellin S12', inspite of the F1 fiascoe. Will fit the new rubber soon.

Get into a terrain that is more challenging, easy to fly like an eagle when soaring with vultures.
Will e-mail you asap.

Rod

 

[SADude]

I cracked the cover on the Clutch side, but will be sorting it out on Saturday as it is the only time I will have to do anything. There is an epoxy the guys use here in South Africa, it is call liquid metal and sets really hard, I will just use that for the moment.

Thanks for all the input on the Mods and Fred T, I hear the part about way to much money in it, sometimes I wonder if it isn't just better to bite the bullet and get a 250.

Rod, I look forward to hearing more from you soon, email, email, email, pics, pics, pics. That gearing I tried out worked well the last time I rode (14/48), it made hill climbing easier with the longer first gear. How does the Airstryker effect the power of the bike? More power everywhere, more bottom end torque, more snap, better throttle response, etc.

Thank

Paul

 

[Green Hornet]

:cool: For leaky hairline cracks, use JB WELD. Clean & brush the area very well and apply the Liquid Cold Weld. Best stuff since sliced bread

 

[Jim Crenca]

I like JB weld but have even better luck with Marine Tex epoxy sold at boating supply stores