Fact or Fiction

[Dale]

Ive read that moving your rear axel twards front of bike helps in tight woods handling because of a shorter wheelbase. Ive also read that loading your front end or shifting weight forward helps in cornering. If both are true my question is, If moving the rear wheel forward would lesson the weight on the front end and also shorten wheelbase is this a trade off or is moving the wheel more benefit than the weight transfer that is lost. also how does this affect suspension ???

 

[Sage]

"If moving the rear wheel forward would lesson the weight on the front end and also shorten wheelbase is this a trade off or is moving the wheel more benefit than the weight transfer that is lost. Also how does this affect suspension ???”

I’ll try to keep this simple and short – Changing the axel length alters the wheelbase, as we all know, a shorter wheelbase via. moving the axel forward will result in a smaller turning circle for a given steering deflection. As the bike is more sensitive to steering input it becomes less stable and by the same note more maneuverable. The change in wheelbase changes the weight distribution considerably, a shorter swingarm means more weight is carried on the rear wheel there for less wheelspin, less wheel spin = front end lift = slight push if your not on top of things.

As for the difference in swingarm length effecting rear suspension it pretty simple, a longer swingarm pivot to axel length will give a softer ride, a shorter P to A length will make the rear suspension feel stiffer due to leverage on the suspension parts (long bar vs. short bar).

I've found on a lot of bikes when you knock the axel forward they tend to get real "spiky" in there action when under the gun, they grip and break out then grip again resulting in a not so smooth drive off a turn, (good throttle control is a must when going all the way forward). When you set the axel back in the arm you get a smoother drive off a turn because you can control the slip better, more of a broad slide (not as much throttle control needed).

I'd say mess with it and see what you like more, it really up to which feel you like better and the P to A length your bike has stock, if you ride something like a KDX (short arm) you will find that a longer P to A length works better, if your on a bike with a long arm you might find it better with the axel forward. It's really up to the numbers, I've found that a P to A length of 550 mm to 580 mm works best for me and me riding style.

Sprockets also play a role in the rear suspension, a set up like 12-50 will have more anti-squat under power and feel stiffer on the gas compared to 14-50.

Good Luck & Happy Tinkering!!

 

[bud]

I don't notice any change in maneuverability unless I change the wheelbase a significant distance, eg 1" or so. What I do notice with even a fairly small move forward is what Sage says, the front end suddenly feels a lot lighter and will wheelie any time I want it to. And frequently when I don't want it to - not at all helpful on hillclimbs. The middle 1/3 of the travel is the best area for me, but it's a matter of personal taste as much as anything imo.

 

[Dale]

any input from Jeremy ???????

 

[Jeremy Wilkey]

Dale,
Sage hit it on head.. I don't have anything to add..

Regards,
Jer