Fixing up a 87 kdx200 got a few questions

[2strokeher]

I'm fixing up an 87 kdx200 that I got form a guy at work. Its in great shape, always starts on the 2nd kick, everythings in good working order. Now I'm doing some basic maitnence on it to keep it running in tip top shape.

Its got very slow oil leaks from behind the kickstarter and the front sprocket. I'm having trouble finding new seals online. any body know were I can order these from. Also do I have to split the lower end to replace these? I have the clymer repair manuel but its not clear.

I'd also like to replace the fork boots. Looking for dark blue ones, don't have to be oem either. If anybodys got some to sell or knows were to get em in the correct size let me know.

The rubber intake manifold between the carb and the reed valves is starting to show signs of cracking but I think its still air tight, I blew propane on it while it was idialing and it didn't rev up at all. But I'd still like to replace it if somebodys got one in good shape that there looking to part with or again if you know were I can find one.

I'm going to pull the cylinder off next week to decarbon the engine and put in a new wiseco piston, rings, and neadle bearing, its running good right now but being as old as it is I'm sure it could use a new piston. As long as I have it off is there anything else I should be doing too?

Lastley, I live out in the sticks and take this bike out on long trips on the gravel roads. I know most 2 stroke dirt bikes like on and off throttle. I'm scared to open her up for to long or hold her at a constant throttle for a long time even at mid throttle for fear of melting the piston. Right know the bike is all stock and I'm running 92 octane at 32:1. Would jetting it to run a little ritcher or using a colder spark plug for this type of riding be a good idea? Using ngk br9es right know. Also any good synthetic 2 stroke oil recomendation? Or any other ideas to help minimize the risk of melting my piston when running the engine like this or am I just being paronoied for know reason?

Thanks

 

[glad2ride]

You can see the parts diagrams with part numbers on the kawasaki.com site, or use the fiche on an OEM parts site like www.ronayers.com.

You DO NOT have to split the cases to repair the leaking kickstart shaft seal and front sprocket area.

GREASE the seals on installation!

kickstarter shaft parts

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=92049-013&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

front sprocket area parts

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=92055-035&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

http://www.ronayers.com/BrowseParts.cfm?product_id=92143-5001

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=92050-033&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

If you want to install a new circlip to be safer:

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=92033-026&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

While you are at it, you may want to go ahead and replace the gear shift shaft seal:

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=92051-005&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

Try to find an OEM Kawasaki service manual used on eBay. Make sure the seller tells you it has KDX200-C2 on the back cover.

Dennis Kirk has Daystar Model #69 fork boots (available in royal blue, black and other colors:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...T5TLA0WTISM4VMDK0OWIV0?store=Main&skuId=58634

If the carb to engine boot is discontinued, just keep looking on eBay, or try to seal up the one you have.

With the cylinder off, check the side play on the crankshaft bearings. DO NOT bore or hone the Kawasaki Electrofusion plated cylinder. If you see a glaze, I recommend you try a green Scotch-Brite pad oiled down, but nothing coarser / more abrasive.

DO NOT coast for long stretches with the throttle closed. The engine is still moving and needs the oil in the fuel to help with lubrication. 92 octane and 32:1 sounds great. You will get 10 answers from 10 people on which synthetic two-stroke oil to use. If the 9 heat range plug is the correct temperature, keep running it. The stock plug is a B9ES, by the way.

Good luck with your great bike!!

 

[2strokerfun]

Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp of everything. If it is jetted properly, I wouldn't worry too much about rejetting to make it richer. Your plug color will tell you.
I do run my old bike one notch richer on the needle than perfect, but as glad2ride indicated, it is the full-throttle-to-sudden-no-throttle action that will usually get you. I am a bit paranoid, like you, but just use common sense (of which you have more of than many, from reading your post). Varying throttle on long stretches is a good safety measure--may not be necessary for most types or riding, but I do it too. I usually notice pinging while accelerating or climbing hill (detonation), loss of power (piston starting to seize), or a sudden increase in power (lean condition) right before a major problem. If you notice any of these things, address it quickly. But most important, service it properly and have fun.

 

[2strokeher]

Thanks a lot guys, I found the oil seals and was at a shop yesterday that had the daystars(not in blue though) but they look like they'd be good so I'll order some.

I'm in the process of changing the oil in the forks and rear shock, neither was leaking oil, they were full of oil, and they look good, but the rear shock didn't have much pressure in it when I released the nitrogen but there was some. Is that a sure sign that I need a rebuild kit or should I put new oil in it, have it filled with nitrogen and see how it works. I tried taking it apart to have a look at it but I'm stuck at the point were the manual says to "carefully tap the bearing down about 0.8 inche till a circlip is visable" I did't want to pound on anything to hard but I couldn't get anything to budge. What does the manuel mean by "bearing"? I hope I'm tapping on the right part.

 

[glad2ride]

Is is a good sign that the shock had ANY nitrogen pressure in it. Unless you have experience in what 142psi sounds like with several discharges, it would be hard for you to guess at how much it had in it compared to how much it was supposed to have.

Without seeing the shock's internal parts, it is hard to say what should be done. Due to its age, a full rebuild, (bladder, bottom out bumper, seal head) would not be a surprise.

Due to the age of the shock, it will difficult to push down the "bearing" (which is more commonly called the seal head). Use oil around the edges to see if it will soak down to the o-ring, which is on the outside of the seal head. You can take a punch and go around the top of the seal head (take your time and don't try to get it to move too much all at once) to try to get it to go down. Race Tech makes a tool which makes it about one jillion times easier:

http://www.racetech.com/images/tools/TSSSxxMID.jpg

If you want, post your e-mail address, and I will e-mail you a picture that better shows the tool. Thanks.

 

[2strokeher]

I got it all apart and it looked real good, couldn't see anything that appeared to need replacing so I followed the directions in the manuel on putting new oil in and reassembly. Was very carefull to make sure no air was in it. It feels good and isn't leeking so hopefully its good to go.