Flywheel weight

[dick]

has anybody tried adding any weight to the flywheel... my dealer said not to do it... i know it works on kx's really helps it lug in tight trees.. and it pulls great on the bottom and mid...

Any info please?

 

[tclossey]

I put a 10 oz weight on and like it a lot. I do quite a bit of woods riding and it really helps with stump crawling. My bike is a 2001 KDX200 with air box mods, aftermarket reeds, FMF pipe and stinger, and one less tooth than stock on the counter sprocket. With the weight that seems to be a really good combo.

 

[andrew]

I also put on a Steahly 10oz weight and it's terrific. My 1996 KDX200 is ported for top end and has a rev pipe so it's bottom end was more KX like than KDX...the weight really helps get the rear tyre hooked up in the loose stuff but doesn't seem to reduce the rate of acceleration by much.

DO IT!!

cheers,

 

[jo8243]

I can't imagine needing a flywheel weight on a KDX200 that had no internal engine mods. It already has a mild "hit" when the power comes on. My '01 has a FMF pipe and silencer and is jetted right (so it has more power than stock) and there's no way I'd want to slow down its ability to rev. With good tires traction is not much of a problem.

I've ridden a friend's KTM 200 E/XC with a flywheel weight and it still had waaaay more 2 stroke "hit" than a KDX200 with no flywheel weight does.

The KDX motor is mild in comparison to many others. I don't think you want to make it more so.

 

[Jim Crenca]

The RB carb mod will give you more hit (with a CEJ needle) if you want it and improves low end respopnse as well. It does not seem to have as much over rev though. Anybody tried a carb mod & flywheel weight?

 

[Tantrum]

I have the 10 oz weight myself. From what I understand, the extra weight does not give any kind of "hit". It adds trackability to the rear tire by evening out the speed of which the power gets to the rear tire. It gave me great confidence when learning how to ride woods. I am considering taking it off now that I am not such a spaz on the throttle. Get it if you have trouble with spinning the rear to easily, stalling in tight stuff, or too hard of a "hit" on the lower end of the band. Good luck.

God save the dirt.
B.

 

[canyncarvr]

I use a steahly. I'm sure it's all a matter of personal preference in whether it's useful or not.

With a brand new 756 finding traction isn't a given...depending on what I happen to be in (ever ridden on dry decomposed granite? Good luck getting ANY traction.)

Slowing down rev uptake? Not a whole lot. Some, yeah..but that aids in keeping wheelspin down.

What I find to be a BIG help is it's much easier to keep the bike running on a long downhill. It's no longer true that a touch of the rear brake with ANY clutch still 'on' will kill the bike. You have much more control on a downhill if your engine is running.

But then, downhill 'round here means going down stuff you would have a hard time STANDING on. Maybe that doesn't apply to what you ride in.

Much better front end control, too. Tends to skim over junk (ruts, roots, branches, logs) better. Another 'less wheelspin' thing..which means more power applied.

Combined with the RB mod, you can be one-up gearwise (lever..not ratio) and still have the power to pick the front end up anytime you want.

I recommend buying some different bolts for the mounting tool. Get some (they are 1/4-20s) longer ones that still have a shoulder..threads NOT all the way up. Cut them so you can SEAT the bolts in the weight but not touch the flywheel. That keeps them from slopping around in the threads of the weight, so you won't tear up anything during the install/take-off process.

Besides...chuck needs the money! Sending a couple bikes to spain for an ISDE ain't cheep! :)

(As foghorn leghorn would say, 'thassa joke, son.')