I wonder how many pipes didn't fit because the mating part was out of position? i.e. what about the kawasaki frame jigs and possible bent frames, shifted engines etc? Not so likely, but there are enough parts that if they are all at the extreme end of tolerance, a supposed good pipe may not fit.
FMF exhaust pipe = poor fit
- Thread starter KDX200Kev
- Start date
03KDXHOPPER
Member
- Nov 23, 2004
- 47
- 0
I have to thank everyone on this forum for ideas on getting the KG-35 to fit on a KDX200. One said dent it, another said bend it, someone mentioned heating it...I used the bend method with the aid of heat.
The fit was off by 1/4" like everyone else had mentioned.
It's cool weather, so I was afraid of breaking welds bending it cold. I didn't want to heat in one spot, so I lightly put it in a bench vice with wood blocks to buffer it, and had some help holding it steady with welding gloves on. I used a standard propane torch (removed the o-rings first), and blew heat down the head portion of the pipe to evenly heat the works.
A little persuasion from an ax handle, and I got it moved a little.
When it was still pretty warm (300+ degrees) it went right in the head. I let it cool some before putting the o-rings back in and siliconing (is that a verb?) it. It fit differently after cooling some.
That makes me wonder if they're not shaping it on the jig while extremely hot, and as it cools and contracts, that changes the fit.
Perhaps letting it get cold in the jig would help, but I don't know their methods...
Maybe one can just heat the pipe enough evenly from the head, and stick it on. Just a thought, but maybe there's something to it (more of a theory, but I didn't bend it much!)..
Bike runs fine (lean yet, but that'll be fixed next time I'm in the shop).
The fit was off by 1/4" like everyone else had mentioned.
It's cool weather, so I was afraid of breaking welds bending it cold. I didn't want to heat in one spot, so I lightly put it in a bench vice with wood blocks to buffer it, and had some help holding it steady with welding gloves on. I used a standard propane torch (removed the o-rings first), and blew heat down the head portion of the pipe to evenly heat the works.
A little persuasion from an ax handle, and I got it moved a little.
When it was still pretty warm (300+ degrees) it went right in the head. I let it cool some before putting the o-rings back in and siliconing (is that a verb?) it. It fit differently after cooling some.
That makes me wonder if they're not shaping it on the jig while extremely hot, and as it cools and contracts, that changes the fit.
Perhaps letting it get cold in the jig would help, but I don't know their methods...
Maybe one can just heat the pipe enough evenly from the head, and stick it on. Just a thought, but maybe there's something to it (more of a theory, but I didn't bend it much!)..
Bike runs fine (lean yet, but that'll be fixed next time I'm in the shop).
Sorry to he you guys are having trouble, I guess I got one of the good ones, 95 new a month later order the pipe & slincers and fit was perfit like a glove. Maybe the spec got off as the years whent by or they hire new help and while traing turn out a bad batch of pipes.
03KDXHOPPER
Member
- Nov 23, 2004
- 47
- 0
Dixie, I thought I would be so lucky. In fact, I had my heart set on it. It stinks to have to modify a part that you just spent hard earned play cash on. Especially when it involves possibly changing air flow and acoustics which is the reason you need the pipe in the first place.
