followup on kdx questions

[trailboy125]

i went to my local kawi dealer today and tried on some bikes. and let me say i felt pretty small. i sat on the kdx, and i have one question how do u guys man-handle a bike like that! i dont even want to know about the kx 500 :yikes: the next time we go ill have to show it to my dad (he got caught up talkin to one of his old buddies that worked there :| )

 

[crazymike]

i went to my local kawi dealer today and tried on some bikes. and let me say i felt pretty small. i sat on the kdx, and i have one question how do u guys man-handle a bike like that! i dont even want to know about the kx 500 :yikes: the next time we go ill have to show it to my dad (he got caught up talkin to one of his old buddies that worked there :| )

my KDX is super lowered.

First thing I did was get longer dog bones made for the rear suspension. These were about $40. I had them made at a machine shop. They basicaly push the rear suspension down a little.

Next thing I did was had slide the front forks up in the triple clamp.

Last thing I did for sure will get my flamed. But I set the sag as soft as it can go. I'm 5' so I need all the help I can get. Even though everyone says set your sag for your weight, not inseem, I did it anyways.

My bike didn't explode in to a giant fireball, I've yet to crash and perish in a firey death. In fact there has been no fire what so ever. My bike handles fine. I don't ride super aggressive, I ride to have fun. And with my bike at this height I have 100x more fun than I did before I dropped the sag. I might not be getting the most out of my suspension, but I don't ride to be the best, I ride for me. PS, it's yet to bottom out on me even with the sag at the very lowest.

 

[Okiewan]

Setting your sag "as "soft" as it can go" (meaning letting it sag max possible) will do nothing but make the bike turn like a chopper, no mater how far you pull the forks up into the clamps. Sag isn't set in terms of soft or hard.

The right way to do it is have a good suspension shop shorten it for you, allowing the bike to handle correctly and the suspension to still work correctly maintaining factory geometry (or mofifying it based on the tuner's experience), etc.

 

[crazymike]

Setting your sag "as "soft" as it can go" (meaning letting it sag max possible) will do nothing but make the bike turn like a chopper, no mater how far you pull the forks up into the clamps. Sag isn't set in terms of soft or hard.

The right way to do it is have a good suspension shop shorten it for you, allowing the bike to handle correctly and the suspension to still work correctly maintaining factory geometry (or mofifying it based on the tuner's experience), etc.

I'm talking about rear sag, I turned the knob all the way to the top dropping the bike 3-4 more inches.

I plan to have a suspension shop do it properly when my budget permits. But for now my current situation works fine for my style of riding.

 

[RoostRider]

Last thing I did for sure will get (me) flamed. But I set the sag as soft as it can go.

;)

at least he knew what he was in for... :)

I have seen some pretty hodge-podged things that 'worked' for what they needed.

Crazymike, have you considered a smaller bike? I'm 5'8" and sometimes the KDX seems too tall for me, I can't imagine how difficult it would be at 5'. Lemme guess, with a name like Crazymike, you won't settle for anything less than a full size bikes power? :)

Some shorter people seem to handle the big bikes ok, I have to give them some serious kudos (usualy from behind due to their skills and added weight advantage)

 

[crazymike]

;)

at least he knew what he was in for... :)

I have seen some pretty hodge-podged things that 'worked' for what they needed.

Crazymike, have you considered a smaller bike? I'm 5'8" and sometimes the KDX seems too tall for me, I can't imagine how difficult it would be at 5'. Lemme guess, with a name like Crazymike, you won't settle for anything less than a full size bikes power? :)

Some shorter people seem to handle the big bikes ok, I have to give them some serious kudos (usualy from behind due to their skills and added weight advantage)

I've had smaller bikes before, but unfortunately they just don't make a good bike for people my height. And at 21, I think I've done all the growing I will do :p

I used to ride a YZ80 and it was alright, but I wanted a solid woods bike. I like the simplicity of 2 strokes and the XR was a bit on the tame side for me. Yamaha has a few woods bikes but they pale in comparison. I didn't even look at the smaller brands because I'm on a budget.

The way the KDX is setup now is the perfect ride height for me. It sits at the same height as my dads old TT500. Maybe a tad taller. I don't know why the latest trend is to have the biggest tallest bike, I guess it helps some people rider better. My favorite trails are from the cord enduro. And if bikes like my dads TT500 made it thru these trails 40 years ago and sits lower than my bike, so can I.

 

[RoostRider]

The reason for the added height is to gain travel, not to elevate the rider. The added travel, in short, means that you can have more 'plush' quick travel, and still have what you need when you hit something hard (a jump gone wrong?)

I am at what I would consider a nearly minimum height for the KDX. About 5'8". I can touch on both sides on my toes and balance the bike from there if it were to fall either way. I too would lower my bike if I were shorter, but you should understand that the bike was designed to sit at a certain height, and lowering it affects it's handling (good in some ways, bad in others).

It sounds like you do know that and have made some calculated decisions about it. But don't take Okiewans comments lightly, you have compromised, not 'cured' the problem.

I honestly think there is a market for 'lower' full size bikes. Can you imagine how nice it would be to sit on a powerfull bike that actually fit you? there are a lot of riders in your shoes (I'm only inches from being one of them)

 

[crazymike]

The reason for the added height is to gain travel, not to elevate the rider. The added travel, in short, means that you can have more 'plush' quick travel, and still have what you need when you hit something hard (a jump gone wrong?)

I am at what I would consider a nearly minimum height for the KDX. About 5'8". I can touch on both sides on my toes and balance the bike from there if it were to fall either way. I too would lower my bike if I were shorter, but you should understand that the bike was designed to sit at a certain height, and lowering it affects it's handling (good in some ways, bad in others).

It sounds like you do know that and have made some calculated decisions about it. But don't take Okiewans comments lightly, you have compromised, not 'cured' the problem.

I honestly think there is a market for 'lower' full size bikes. Can you imagine how nice it would be to sit on a powerfull bike that actually fit you? there are a lot of riders in your shoes (I'm only inches from being one of them)

Back in the day, and before my time low bikes were the in thing.

Enduro bikes put out so much torque you could drive up the side of a house in 1st gear. And they were super low too.

I have yet to have a problem with my KDX bottoming out and the handling is fine for me.

I understand how some people want the most out of their bike, I just want to have fun :)

But to each their own. I can touch on both sides now, almost flat foot with my boots on. Too me this is the perfect height for a bike. I like to man handle my bike if it means not dropping it, etc...

and I also like to keep both wheels on the ground :p

 

[canyncarvr]

re: '...and the handling is fine for me.'

Don't sell yourself short (no pun intended).

Most of the modifications I have done to my bike have resulted in a surprise that that much improvement was still to be had.

Yep. 'The reason for the added height is to gain travel, not to elevate the rider.'

Perfectly stated.

Yep. 'Sag isn't set in terms of soft or hard.'

Also perfectly stated.

While I understand your current point of view (works for me!), the way the shock is set up now (spanner rings to the top) is seriously hampering your riding 'fun.'

You're missing out on a lot more fun if you don't: 1. Make the suspension work the way it is supposed to, and 2. Make it work for you.

'1' comes before '2'.

Have fun!

 

[crazymike]

re: '...and the handling is fine for me.'

Don't sell yourself short (no pun intended).

Most of the modifications I have done to my bike have resulted in a surprise that that much improvement was still to be had.

Yep. 'The reason for the added height is to gain travel, not to elevate the rider.'

Perfectly stated.

Yep. 'Sag isn't set in terms of soft or hard.'

Also perfectly stated.

While I understand your current point of view (works for me!), the way the shock is set up now (spanner rings to the top) is seriously hampering your riding 'fun.'

You're missing out on a lot more fun if you don't: 1. Make the suspension work the way it is supposed to, and 2. Make it work for you.

'1' comes before '2'.

Have fun!

Everyone keeps telling me this, yet I rode the bike with the correct sag for 2 years, then I decided I would see how much it really affected the bike and dropped it. It increaed my ability 10x in the technical sections. I felt 10x more confortable in the deep water sections (2'-3') because I knew in the off chance I did fall and sink into the mud I wouldn't be droping the bike.

Everyone says how this deathly affects your handling, etc... but I some how think they have never tried it.

 

[canyncarvr]

It is good that you like it. After all...you ride it. If it suits you, it tickles me.

Don't however interpret from your experiences that what you have done is either correct, proper or a reasonable shock tuning method.

The fact that you are more comfortable closer to the ground does not have any bearing on how well your suspension does or does not work.

No reason to get into any argument here. You stated you ride mostly for fun. That being true it is unlikely that the word 'deathly' applies to your suspension situation.

Statements made earlier regarding shock/suspension set-up are correct. Yours is by no means set-up correctly. While you may like it that way, that is no basis from which to argue that you are correct and others merely offering facts are incorrect.

I've not tried a whole lot of things just to prove to myself that they are wrong.

Again, if you like it, that's great. Downplaying helpful information from people that know better (..they just never tried it!) isn't helpful for you and will only get you on their 'ignore' list.

Cheers!

 

[crazymike]

It is good that you like it. After all...you ride it. If it suits you, it tickles me.

Don't however interpret from your experiences that what you have done is either correct, proper or a reasonable shock tuning method.

The fact that you are more comfortable closer to the ground does not have any bearing on how well your suspension does or does not work.

No reason to get into any argument here. You stated you ride mostly for fun. That being true it is unlikely that the word 'deathly' applies to your suspension situation.

Statements made earlier regarding shock/suspension set-up are correct. Yours is by no means set-up correctly. While you may like it that way, that is no basis from which to argue that you are correct and others merely offering facts are incorrect.

I've not tried a whole lot of things just to prove to myself that they are wrong.

Again, if you like it, that's great. Downplaying helpful information from people that know better (..they just never tried it!) isn't helpful for you and will only get you on their 'ignore' list.

Cheers!

I'm not telling them they are wrong. The complete opposite. I agree that my setup isn't very efficient and the handling is probably worse.

All I'm saying is that it's not as bad as people make it out to be. I'm not reccomending people do this themselves, I'm just saying this is what works for me. I've rode the bike both ways. Yet people still want to tell me I will have more fun with the correct sag.

 

[canyncarvr]

Understood. ;)

 

[skipro3]

What your saying Mike isn't so crazy. (Sorry, couldn't resist) Let me explain: I work in the winter as a part-time ski instructor. People taking lessons from me assume that if they have the same equipment I have, they will ski just as well. The reality is that at their level of skill, my equipment would get them in serious trouble, be a waste of money, and either slow down or retard their learning curve. So I usually will recommend other models of equipment geared more towards their skill level than what I am using. At some point in their skiing life, they will discover that the equipment they have is limiting them and look for equipment designed to handle the speeds and terrain they are seeking to explore on.
Same with the dirt riding. For now, this suspension set up you are using works for you because the bike is probably capable of much more than you as a rider. That's not a slam. Many people successfully race a near stock KDX, so it would stand to reason that there is more than just a little overkill on some of the systems on the bike for a play rider. The day will come, (sooner rather than later, if you are enjoying riding your bike) that you will realize that you demand more of your suspension. When you do, you will now know what it will take to increase it's performance for your enjoyment without having to spend money needlessly. Eventually, your riding will progress to the point you will not be satisfied with the stock components and will look to aftermarket parts or even another brand of bike.
In a nutshell: Detuning to match your situation is a good thing.

 

[jirvine]

IWe have two KDX's, one (mine) has gold valves up front, a stronger spring rear, revalved, and set reasonable high. My daughter (5'3") has stock suspension that was professionally lowered and in so doing it lost some travel. It was great for her as she could make good contact with the ground and when hitting the technical (rockY) stuff she avoid a number of tipovers (makes riding a lot more fun). But she has ridden mine and loves the suspension (plus a better motor) yet the ride height would be problematic. Life's a compromise, (that's why you need a lot of bikes) KDX, XR650L, KX500, ZRX1100, Triumph Sprint.

 

[DirtRoller]

Most really good riders can ride any bike with any set-up, and still smoke us mear mortals. I guess your not looking to race RC next week... right?
So if your set-up makes you ride better then have at it.
I'm guessing being able to touch the ground in the rough stuff makes you feel more comfy, hence you ride better.
On my XR 400 I also choped the seat down this seem to do the trick for me. After that I set the spendies up more in line with the norm.
Ride a bike with no shock for 2 years and you will ride that bike better then anyone else can. :yikes:
CrazyMIke just remember
Short guys rule. :nener:

 

[crazymike]

Most really good riders can ride any bike with any set-up, and still smoke us mear mortals. I guess your not looking to race RC next week... right?
So if your set-up makes you ride better then have at it.
I'm guessing being able to touch the ground in the rough stuff makes you feel more comfy, hence you ride better.
On my XR 400 I also choped the seat down this seem to do the trick for me. After that I set the spendies up more in line with the norm.
Ride a bike with no shock for 2 years and you will ride that bike better then anyone else can. :yikes:
CrazyMIke just remember
Short guys rule. :nener:

That's basicaly how I feel. Some people get a kick out of riding being the fastest and always finishing first. For me, I do that for a living. When I ride my bike it's to go out in the woods, cover some ground, see the sights and have fun.

I have just as much fun riding with my little brother on his 100 on railway lines as I do ripping it up on the technical stuff with my dad.

Personally I can't afford to ride as hard as some of you guys. If I get hurt, I don't work the next day. If I don't work, I don't have hobbies.