well, i was i bought a pair of 81 forks for my xr200, and i had them on the bike, and was putting the front wheel on. i put in the axle to the specific torque as in the manual, and then i went to tighten the nuts on the axle clamp on the right fork, and one if the little bolt nub things broke off before i got the nescesary torque!!! i was thinking to cut off the bolt and drill down and re-thread it and glue a new one in, but am wondering if there is any other solution... please help!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fork Axle Clamp Bolt Broke!
- Thread starter rigi144
- Start date
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,504
- 19
you busted a stud. You should use a stud extractor before you cut the sucker off, and then go down to your local honda dealer and get a new stud to replace it, and then find the torque specs for the year of the fork you are putting on the bike.
oh, and by the way, don't mistake "inch/lbs" for "foot/lbs". I speak from experience.
have a bitchen day
oh, and by the way, don't mistake "inch/lbs" for "foot/lbs". I speak from experience.
have a bitchen day
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,504
- 19
yes, it will be threaded on both ends.
good luck
good luck
Just be warned that if you also break the extractor you're probably going to have to take the fork leg to a machine shop since these bits are made of hardened (tool) steel. These are commonly called EZ-Outs and look a little like a fat drill bit. They have left hand threads, to as you tighten it, it sometimes backs the broken stud out. You can find them at tool stores as well as Home Depot and Lowes.
I've had pretty bad luck with them since in my experience if the stud broke it's in their pretty tight and the EZ-Out either doesn't work or breaks off, too. The fact that you have a steel stud in an aluminum part means there's likely corrosion caused by the dissimilar metals, further tightening the bond. Given this, I would recommend heating the fork leg a bit before using the EZ-Out, though don't overdue it and hurt the fork internals.
I've had pretty bad luck with them since in my experience if the stud broke it's in their pretty tight and the EZ-Out either doesn't work or breaks off, too. The fact that you have a steel stud in an aluminum part means there's likely corrosion caused by the dissimilar metals, further tightening the bond. Given this, I would recommend heating the fork leg a bit before using the EZ-Out, though don't overdue it and hurt the fork internals.
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,504
- 19
Doug, we're both speaking English, but not saying the same things. This is what I'm talking about:
But you have to be careful with it as well, so you don't just twist off the rest of the stud and then necessitate the use of an EZ-Out.
But you have to be careful with it as well, so you don't just twist off the rest of the stud and then necessitate the use of an EZ-Out.
what i would do is take out a dremmel and grind down the stud so the end looks the the end of a flat head screw driver then heat up the fork and the vicegrip it and get a long pipe, put it on the end of the vice grips and push. should be easier cuz u got alot more leverage instead of the limited levrage the vicegrips give you.
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