Fork Re-Spring vs. Re-Valve

[Fatherof2]

Hi Gang,
Can I get some input on the differences between a fork that has simply been re-sprung vs a fork that has been re-sprung AND re-valved? Love to hear from someone who has ridden both.

I know some may suggest that a fork swap is the best choice, but right now I am just trying to get a handle on the re-vavle option.

Thanks All,

D.

 

[dirt bike dave]

What bike do you have?

Stock KDX's typically have too much high speed compression damping. This is a bandaid for overly soft fork springs, and sharp hits on rocks and roots (the kind that make the fork move FAST, or at high speed) are very harsh.

IMO, if you ride your KDX in places where you will be hitting rocks and roots, a revalve is extremely important.

If you are just looking to improve the fork on jumps and whoops, the stiffer springs alone will make a big difference.

FWIW, on some models you can stiffen up the springs for free by cutting off a few coils, and still not have to worry about coil binding. You would need to add some additonial spacer for the pre-load.

Also, oil level makes a big difference in bottoming resistance and stiffness toward the end of the travel. It is also a cheap and easy way to tune your fork.

But revalving will be (by far) the best solution on sharp rooks and rocks.

 

[Fatherof2]

Dave,

Thanks very much! That was helpful.

I have a 2001 KDX 200.

Do you feel that the fork swap is an even greater improvement? (Assuming the fork was re-sprung and re-valved.)

I am a C Class rider. 165lbs without gear.

Thanks again,

D.

 

[sr5bidder]

Most that have done the swap really seem to like it, I have gone to 38's (springs) and done the shim stack mod.

I put the 38's in and didn't seem to make much difference but then I finally broke down and did the shim stack mod and the ride improved sooo much, actually saved me from quitting riding.

even with the 38's the bike punishes ya if you go over 5-6ft

the shim stack mod would be considered valving and it is almost free

 

[glad2ride]

Get the proper springs for your weight, then go from there. Modifiying the shim stack seems to be a popular modification. Calculate just how much you want to spend on some 1987 technology forks before dumping a lot of money into something that may not fit your needs.

 

[Dirtdame]

I have an 03 220 and resprung both ends of the bike for my weight, and also installed Gold Valve kits on both ends of the suspension. The back of the bike was too stiff stock, so I changed out the stocker spring (5.0) for a 4.6. The front end was too soft at .35, so I switched that up to a .38 for my weight (about 130 lbs). Gold Valve kit makes a bigger difference in the front end, especially on square edge holes and rocky technical terrain. The rear end is not valved as bad, but I put the kit in anyway, so that both ends would balanced with one another. Made the bike way more plush in whoops and over jumps, way less deflection in gnarly jagged stuff. Setting the sag is very critical though. If you go through all the time and expense to set up your suspension and you fudge and don't follow the sag guidelines, it's almost a waste of money.

 

[Fatherof2]

Thanks for all the great input everyone!

I am going with the respring/revalve on the front and back.

I think I am going to use FRP to do the work.

Thanks again,

D.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Nice choice. Nobody knows green bikes like him, and not for him, they probably would not be around. Vintage Bob

 

[Matt90GT]

here is a simple way to differentiate the 2:

fork springs are weight dependant, valving is NOT

So you want to get the correct springs front and rear for your weight. For the terrain, ability, speed you want to play with the valving and oils.