Fork Rebuid Help

Sometimes the damper assembly can be a bit tight in the area where the bottom bolt tightens up-try to gently push the damper assembly side to side to work it loose and then pull the damper rod up-it should pull out.

The showas vary alot about that time.It is normal for the bottom bolt to come out and have a load of stuff attached to it.
It still sounds like the damper assembly is just wedged in tight-try refitting the bottom bolt and turn it in a good few turns-then with a soft mallet hit the end of the bolt-this should shove the damper assembly out of the fork leg casting.

You might want to get a manual for the Husky (if you can) I used to work on these alot and Like Marcus said some of the parts are different from the SHOWAS on Hondas back then . The wipers I think were different andI think you had to reference the rebound adjustment (pushrod/needle/spring) assy to get the right range of adjustment in the clickers when installing the fork cap on the damper rod . I think you turn the clicker in 16 clicks and thread down the cap and then tighten up the damper rod nut. Like a XR 400 and the showa road race stuff . HusKY would have been much wiser to stay with Showa than to switch to MZ It seemed as though your 95 suspension was better than the later stuff that leaked and really didnt work as well and was like only half as tuneable . In my opinion anyway .

My 46 hits the tubes before the seal is pushed in all the way ,too wide. With a like 2inch or so peice of pvc you coul cut a slit in it to puch the seal in , If you have a really big vise tape up the jaws and put the PVC on the vise but DONT CLAMP DOWN all the way . Youll need to push the seal in as opposed to smacking it in like with a seal driver .Sometomes it may get stuck and a little heat from a heat gun on the aluminum tubeswill help expand and the seal will slip in easier. On older street bikes the seals get really corroded& stuck sometimes and the heat gun thing helps also and keeps from messing up the bushings.