skipro3 said:If you machine a new stem, use steel and not aluminum like the KX. The smaller diameter of the KDX stem would be too weak in aluminum. That's why when Kawasaki went from a steel stem in the KX to an aluminum stem, they had to increase the diameter.
skipro3 said:Sorry if my source for stem material is not correct. It came from Kawasaki when I contacted them about my fabricating an aluminum stem for the KDX out of the 1996 KX stem I had. They told me that removing that much material from the KX stem would weaken it too much. I took that to mean that a stem machined from aluminum stock would also be too weak using the dimensions of the steel stem. Maybe it's not the stem diameter but the thread diameter portion that would be the issue? Would the anodizing on the aluminum stem also contribute to the strengh of the stem?
Where do you find shim stock? Some kind of specialty store?
AZ Brad said:Where do you find shim stock? Some kind of specialty store?
Lutz said:As I believe FLBusa stated previously, the brake caliper from my KDX has two fins below where the brakeline attaches, making a KX brake line not work.
Another source is anywhere that sells model train stuff. I got several sheets of brass in various thicknessess (gauges). If you can't find any, let me know and I will send you some. A little goes a long way! :thumb:AZ Brad said:Where do you find shim stock? Some kind of specialty store?
Lutz said:I think I may fit a wider piece of steel to the bottom of the KDX frame stop. The plan would be to machine a notch into the new stop so that it fits snugly onto the old stop, and would provide a way to transfer the lateral forces into the the factory stop. This would also require minimal welding (in turn avoiding problems with weakening/embrittlement or distortion of the frame). In this case, I may even use JB weld to hold the new stop in place.
I'm getting a little long winded here, so I'll wait for some more feedback from you all.
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