Front wheel wobble?

Just did my bearings yesterday. About a two hour job. There is a little play at the wheel from the natural play in the bearings. I'd say about 1/8 inch at the wheel. Just a barely detectable "wiggle" at the steering stem. You can check this by putting the cycle up on a stand, stand in front, and gently pull fore/aft on the forks.

Reason I did my bearings. I completed a KX fork swap a couple months ago. Forgot to order new bearings so I used the "relics" that came w/the old triples I scavenged. Flipped the bike last weekend and twisted my fancy new forks in the triple. Had to break it all down to check it out and did the bearings while I was at it (bought the new bearings a waited for the opportunity to replace 'em..my riding skills presented the opportunity sooner than I thought :ohmy: ) Good luck.

jrs024 sounds like you are talking front wheel bearings and b1dude is talking steering stem bearings. If it is front wheel bearings, check by standing beside wheel and holding the top of tire and try moving tire side to side if any slack at all replace!! Same goes for back wheel. Very easy job, front tire 1 hour or less. IMPORTANT Remember one side has a clip that holds the bearing in remove it first then drive bearing out . Aftermarket you can get bearing and seals for less than $20

push the spacer to the side tap it out VERY EVENLY with a drift. i say very evenly because i did my first set years ago and hammered it out all cockeyed it put about .00001" play and that is too much it = 1" wobble on tire
freeze the new bearing and tap it in with a socket that matches the outer race EVENLY AGAIN

hub alone =$$

Repeat! Don't forget to remove the snap ring before you start pounding on anything!


re: There is a little play at the wheel from the natural play in the bearings. ..about 1/8 inch at the wheel

Uh..no. Not unless the bearings are 'naturally' shot.

re: Just a barely detectable "wiggle" at the steering stem.

That's because those bearings are shot, too! :ohmy: ...or not properly adjusted.

Pack the new bearings with a decent grease before you put 'em in. The seals are easily removed with a mechanic's scribe levered against the INside seal diameter.

Don't forget to put the hub spacer back in!

Assemble the front axle assy properly. The torque on the axle clamp nuts is only about 86in/lbs. Check your manual to be sure. I am maybe recalling that figure incorrectly. Put it together with NO gap at the top of the cap/fork junction. There WILL be a space at the bottom.

Those studs (if you break one) can be found at hardware/auto stores. RonAyers has 'em for less than a buck. They are a #6, 30mm (or so) long. PN 172G0622, advertised as 6X22.

Use a thread locking agent (blue).

Axle to 65ft/lb.

No special tools. A flat end punchand a hammer is all you need. And a socket or something else the same size as the outer race of bearing to drive it back in. Check the post Bearing replacement. Pretty much the way you do it. Although I didn't have to freeze my bearings or heat hub. Just be sure to drive bearings OUT and IN evenly,square, or however you want to say it. Just a little at a time,Not one side all at once.

Also a shop manuel the best $35 you will ever spend. Most of the things you need to know in min. instead of days waiting on people to post.