Got the head gasket fixed, now it wont.....

[Gage`s Dad]

Now it wont run for very long. Sat. he ran it with the choke on til it went dead( he was so excited he forgot) and later that day it cranked and ran for 6 or 7 minutes. It was running when we put it to bed. Today he only got across the street and it died again. This time no choke was on. I looked at the plug and it looked kinda oil-fouled. I compared it to the pic in the manual and it looks like the oil fouled pic, just not quite as bad.Im thinking when he pre-mixed the gas, he put to much oil in the gas and that combined with a break-in period is fouling the plug. I guess now I will ask my question, how fast can a plug foul? I cleaned it in some gas and put it back in. The bike cranked and ran for 3 or 4 minutes and went dead. I repeated the cleaning process and it cranked and ran again for 3 or 4 minutes. Repeated the process( by now Im getting good at this) and it ran again for about 1 or 2 minutes. I checked the air filter its clean.

What does everyone think? Too rich a mixture?

Any help is apperciated...
So what do ya think? To rich a mixture?

 

[_JOE_]

Put in a NEW plug. Grab a few of them while you're at it, sounds like you need to get to jetting.

Here's a link to read before you jump in..........http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?p=1340315#post1340315

 

[BSWIFT]

Put in a NEW plug. Grab a few of them while you're at it, sounds like you need to get to jetting.

Here's a link to read before you jump in..........http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?p=1340315#post1340315

Good advice. If you don't have a manual, check online for the stock jets for a base line. Follow the guide in the link and change only one thing at a time. Once your done, the bike will run really well and you will know more about the bike. If the bike calls for a high dollar plug BR9EG, use a cheaper plug BR9ES to jet with and when you get the jetting right, put the recommended plug back in.

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

Before I went through the jetting exercise I was fouling plugs every few hours of operation. That was for a new plug. I bought one of those sand blaster spark plug cleaners and tried re-using plugs. Save your money, it didn't work. A used plug would foul in 1/4 of the time of a new plug.

What can lead to fouling plugs fast is riding a two stroke too gently. The spark plug has to reach a certain minimum temperature in order for it to burn off the deposits that
accumulate on it. If the air/fuel mixture is too rich and the bike isn't ridden hard then the spark plug may not be getting hot enough.

A quick solution is to change to a "hotter" plug. The number in the plug part number indicates the heat range and a smaller number is hotter. So if you currently are running a BR9xx then try a BR8xx.

As you son's riding skills improve, or if you change the jetting, keep an eye on the spark plug to make sure it doesn't start running too hot.

Rod

 

[Gage`s Dad]

Put the new gas-oil mix and spark plug in today. Bike cranked and ran fine. Rode for maybe 10 minutes and let it cool down. Noticed gas leaking from the overflow line. This stopped when the gas is shut off. I think I even noticed a little come out from under it as he pulled away( he was on the back wheel). Could this be a stuck float?
Thanks again for everyones help.

 

[Matt90GT]

you need to clean and adjust the carb. Clean the pilot jet first! That is the reason it only runs with the choke on. Then set the float. You may need a new needle/seat assembly also.

 

[mxman2000]

If your fouling plugs up too fast then your probably using something like a br8eg/es and not riding hard enough. If your racing hard then these are fine. But if you are just taking it easy then i would reccomend a b8es/eg as these will go for ever. This is from my experiance anyways.

Field/woods b8eg/b8es
race track br8eg/br8es

never tried the 9s.

 

[_JOE_]

If your fouling plugs up too fast then your probably using something like a br8eg/es and not riding hard enough. If your racing hard then these are fine. But if you are just taking it easy then i would reccomend a b8es/eg as these will go for ever. This is from my experiance anyways.

Field/woods b8eg/b8es
race track br8eg/br8es

never tried the 9s.

What? Do you know what the difference is between the "b" and "br" series is?

 

[_JOE_]

You need to get the carb cleaned out very well and most likely replace the float valve and seat(if you can get the seat). Check for gas inside the floats when you have the carb apart. If there's gas in there they're scrap. If they look good be sure to verify the float height. The fuel running out the overflow is making the entire system go rich causing the excessive plug fouling.

 

[mxman2000]

What? Do you know what the difference is between the "b" and "br" series is?

Hi, Yes i do know the differnece between the 2 but this is what i have found from my experiance. The br s work well when thrashed and the b s work well in woodland scenarios. I know the resister type should not be any different but i have used alot of plugs and this is what works best.

 

[Gage`s Dad]

Its running now but pouring gas out of the overflow. I took the carb off and the float seems ok. I did find a small piece if trash on the fuel valve. Got rid of that, crossed my fingers and put it all back together, tried it and it still leaked. I wonder if, when we turned the bike upside down to drain the water out of the crankcase, it did something to the float. I need to try the water test thats in the manual for the float. Maybe the float is cracked.
Thanks for all the replies so far !

 

[IndyMX]

Either that or the float valve is junk. They do wear out.

 

[Gage`s Dad]

There is a good note to all this....my 15 year old son and I have something to do together. Kinda re-bonding after he out grew Hot Wheels !
Thanks again for all the help !!!

 

[_JOE_]

Good to hear you guys are making the most of it!


If the float is cracked it should have fuel inside.

 

[Gage`s Dad]

Took the float out again today and did the water test. It didn`t leak. Noticed another piece of trash on the fuel valve, proceeded to get a small flashlight and looked up in the hole the fuel valve goes in and saw more trash. Got a needle and got some out and then flushed it by putting gas in an air brush and spraying up in the hole. Finished by connecting the fuel hose and turning the gas on and letting it run for a second or two. Put it all back together (almost never got the carb back on, it took me and Gage to do it) and it quit leaking gas :)

After running it for a few minutes we checked and it was dripping a drop every 8 or 9 seconds. I was hoping we were done but we might need to take the carb off one more time.
I have never done anything like this before so we are learning as we go. Thank you everyone that has helped us through all of this. Maybe one day I`ll know enough to help someone like me with a problem.

Im sure I`ll have more questions in the future. Again, thanks to everyone for the help.
Wade( Gages Dad)

 

[IndyMX]

I find that using my compressor to blow out the holes in the carb works best..

The air brush was a good start, but to really get the job done you need a hard blast of air.

 

[cowasucky]

I like to use the little cans of compressed air....like computer duster. It gives a strong enough blast and with the straw accessory you can get right up inside all the little holes & orifices of the carb. Just an idea in case a compressor is not available.

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

If you had debris in the float valve then you probably have an issue with the gas tank.

The gas tank should be easy to remove. Take it off, remove the petcock from the bottom, drain it and rinse it out really good. Make sure it isn't the gasket from the petcock that is rotting out and is the source of the debris.

If you can't get the tank clean then install a filter between the tank and the carburetor. It is a lot easier to clean the filter than to clean the carburetor.

Rod