Great idea needed...don't fail me

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 18, 2010

• #1

This is for a friend...I don't think he posted anything about this but he needs an intake boot for his '86 air cooled KDX 200. Kaw doesn't make this part anymore #16065-1138. Same part for '87 model.

So, if he can't find a new one...how does he repair his old cracked one? Who has a handy remedy? Does anyone have a 'usable' one that is currently being 'unused'?

He has restored this bike to near perfect condition...save this issue. You'd really be helping a KDX brother.

 

R

reepicheep

Member

Apr 3, 2009

670

2

• Mar 18, 2010

• #2

My neighbor had an old husky a long time ago, and he went to a food service supply store, and got some like 3" diameter clear tubing (with cloth mesh embedded) and ran it straight into the airbox, with a K&N cone filter on it with a worm clamp. The airbox just kind of covered the K&N cone and held it in place.

 

ellandoh

dismount art student

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Mi. Trail Riders

Aug 29, 2004

2,958

0

• Mar 18, 2010

• #3

see if this brings anything to mind

http://images.google.com/images?sou...C:en&q=fernco&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

 

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 18, 2010

• Thread starter
• #4

That is a great suggestion...but the boot I'm searching for is on the other side of the carb...between the carb and the reed cage on the cylinder. If answering this question was a competition, I'd name you the 2nd place finisher because I think I found a better solution from a friend. I called an acquaintance who owns about 40 or 50 KDX's and KX's.
He suggested that if the boot is showing cracking signs to spread open the cracks a little with a screw driver blade and squirt in some black windshield adhesive. And if necessary, smear the adhesive completely around the boot as if you were spreading a homemade bandage completely around. He swears this will outlast the engine itself. It will dry somewhat but remain very pliable while sealing against air leaks.
Unless someone else has a better idea, I might have to declare this contest.....Ovah!

 

Joburble

Bring back the CR500

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Jul 20, 2009

417

0

• Mar 19, 2010

• #5

I think covering them in silicone sealer/RTV is the norm, ugly but seems to work.

 

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Porkchop

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Apr 27, 2001

341

0

• Mar 19, 2010

• #6

Consider having a billet aluminum replacement part made. Is there enough room for a short rubber coupling tube for the carb connection?

 

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 19, 2010

• Thread starter
• #7

Billet aluminum replacement part....hmmm, not a bad suggestion. That could be a good remedy.

 

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fordmugg

Member

Jan 30, 2010

43

0

• Mar 19, 2010

• #8

i have an idea not sure how good it will work but here it goes ....clean up the cracks and the rest of it and dip in the rubber dip. you know the stuff you can dip tools in to give them rubber grip handles. i think it would work ...and try a couple coats

 

ellandoh

dismount art student

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Mi. Trail Riders

Aug 29, 2004

2,958

0

• Mar 19, 2010

• #9

fordmugg said:

i have an idea not sure how good it will work but here it goes ....clean up the cracks and the rest of it and dip in the rubber dip. you know the stuff you can dip tools in to give them rubber grip handles. i think it would work ...and try a couple coats

Click to expand...

sounds like a customizing option also :nod: do they make this rubber in CR red?? :cool:

 

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fordmugg

Member

Jan 30, 2010

43

0

• Mar 19, 2010

• #10

check this out

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

and it comes in red :cool:

 

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 19, 2010

• Thread starter
• #11

Wow...this brainstorming competition is FAR from being over! Another great idea. Remember the Clint Eastwood movie 'Heartbreak Ridge' where, as a marine drill sergeant, he urges his recruits to 'Improvise, Overcome, Adapt!" . Kaw no longer makes the part so we have to be good marines.

 

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Porkchop

~SPONSOR~

Apr 27, 2001

341

0

• Mar 19, 2010

• #12

I was contemplating the plasti-dip method, I question how the stuff will deal with heat & fuel or how well it will bond to the original part.

 

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glad2ride

Member

Jul 4, 2005

1,071

1

• Mar 20, 2010

• #13

Keep looking on eBay. I found one there.

Smearing silicone all over it helps for a while and may last until something better comes along.

I have heard of people wrapping them with duct tape. You might go with smearing a sealant, then wrapping it. If I ever needed to do it, smearing and wrapping would be my choice.

Tell him to look for cracks in the airbox to carb boot as well. It is just a common trait of the boots to crack over that many years, unfortunately.

If you look on eBay at NOS boots for any old bike, the prices can get pretty darn high. I bought a new one about 8 years ago at a Kawasaki dealer and am glad I did.

 

J

julien_d

Member

Oct 28, 2008

1,788

1

• Mar 20, 2010

• #14

I 2nd plasti dip. It's oil resistant, so it should hold up fine to the fuel/oil at least for a good while. I have a can in the garage I bought just to dip the carb boot on my 73 F-11. I haven't done it yet though, bike's still at the shop torn down. The KDX rebuild took priority, lol.

J.

 

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 20, 2010

• Thread starter
• #15

Wondering if you plan to dip just the outside of the boot in the Plasti dip or allow the dip to cover the inside of the boot as well?

 

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julien_d

Member

Oct 28, 2008

1,788

1

• Mar 20, 2010

• #16

Outside only. Make little plugs for the openings on either end, one with a string tied through it. Dip the hole thing, then trim off around the plugs and pull them out.

 

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 21, 2010

• Thread starter
• #17

Julien, please update me after you dip your boot and tell me how it works out.

 

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julien_d

Member

Oct 28, 2008

1,788

1

• Mar 21, 2010

• #18

Might be a while man. The F-11 is still in pieces. Have to have the cylinder sent off and punched out, new piston, main bearings, etc. Unfortunately that old girl hasn't been on the top of my list of priorities for a while. I really would like to get her put back together though....

 

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 21, 2010

• Thread starter
• #19

Well, maybe I'll be updating you, then.

 

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Porkchop

~SPONSOR~

Apr 27, 2001

341

0

• Mar 21, 2010

• #20

150$ gets you a billet alum reproduction of your part. I had to make one for my V-force reed set-up, the original was a plastic part, It did not like the heat & distorted.
P.M. me if needed. Best Regards....

 

J

Jesel

Member

Jul 15, 2006

28

0

• Mar 21, 2010

• #21

3M weatherstripping adhesive is great stuff too. It's just like rubber when it dries and stays flexible. It's way better than silicoln. I use it on almost all my gaskets and never had an issue with leaking.

 

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bultaco4ever

Member

Oct 14, 2009

149

2

• Mar 21, 2010

• Thread starter
• #22

Porkchop, I'll have my buddy contact you. Your billet aluminum suggestion is probably the only long term solution going forward. At some point all current stock of intake boots will be sold or consumed by wear and tear. Therefore if '86 and '87 KDX 200 models wish to remain functional, at some point in the future that part will have to be remanufactured as you describe.

Until then, these temporary repairing and resealing procedures look to be less costly solutions. So, many will have to vote with their pocketbook which procedure to use. Bite the bullet now for the long term solution or use the quick fix short term solution.