cphillips

Member
Feb 25, 2001
90
0
I am in the process of putting my 99 250 exc back together after the horrible tumble off the trailer. Just installed a new clutch line but I am having trouble bleeding the line. The syringe will hardly even compress and when it does the oil seems to seep out at the top of the bleeder nipple. What could be my problem? I am new at this so I dont really have any ideas. I am so close to having this thing back up and running, so I would greatly appreciate all your help so maybe I cant get back out in a few days.

Thanks!!!

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1999 KTM 250 E/XC
 

cphillips

Member
Feb 25, 2001
90
0
Strick,

No Luck. I loosened both line fittings but to no avail. The m/c cover is off. Maybe I have the cheapest syringe money can buy! HA!! It is very frustrating when your trying to learn to wrench on the bike and little things like this pop up.

Any other suggestions before I take her to the shop.



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1999 KTM 250 E/XC
 

Strick

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 8, 1999
1,782
2
First things first. The reservoir cap is off. The clutch line is unobstructed. The bleed fitting is un-tightened. Here's a couple of more things to try. Try pulling the fluid backwards from the reservoir to the syringe. Pump the lever a couple of times with the fitting loose. It has been a while since I have done this. I will rack my brain to see if any thing else pops up.

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Strick '99 KTM 300mxc, AMA & BRC member
 

cphillips

Member
Feb 25, 2001
90
0
I will give it a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes. If you have any more ideas post them and I'll get them in the morning. Thanks for your help.




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1999 KTM 250 E/XC
 

jeb

Member
Jul 21, 1999
633
0
Sometimes you have to loosen the bleeder valve quite a ways to make it easy to push the fluid in. If that doesn't work, I'd check the line or banjo bolts for obstructions.

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John Brunsgaard - JEB
01 KTM 400 EXC
99 KTM 250 EXC
99 KTM 200 EXC
98 KTM 125 EXC
98 KTM 380 MXC (gone)
96 KDX 200
 

ripin520

Member
Jan 15, 2001
30
0
I had the same thing happen to me when I was back bleeding the line. This is what I used and what I did.

I bought a syringe from Wal*Mart ($2.00)in the boat isle I think and two 1/2" hose clamps ($1.00) and used a pice of gas cap line. I fitted hose to syringe and clamped with one hose clamp. I then pushed hose and last hose clamp onto bleeder nipple. Once on tight and clamped loosen the bleeder nipple and push the fluid. I remember it was quite stiff to push the fluid through but put some a$$ into it. You will need some one to catch the fluid which spills over at the m/c and watch for the air bubbles to disappear in the line. Once that occours spin the syringe to close the nipple and then tighten with box wrench. You will need to remove additional fluid at the m/c (4mm below rim) before closing it up. Remove the syringe and pump the lever to regain pressure, Then recheck level of fluid. Good luck. Hope this helps.

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01'520E/XC
 

JCV 220R

Member
Oct 13, 1999
90
0
I will be installing a stainless steel clutch hose on my bike very soon and this thread got me thinking... is there a way to bleed the system with my mity-vac?

thanks

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Jay
2001 KTM 250 E/XC
NETRA & AMA Member

Chicken Wrist Racing
TWIST IT!!!!
 

jeb

Member
Jul 21, 1999
633
0
Sure, vac pumps works too. Just make sure to have someone adding fluid at the resevoir.

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John Brunsgaard - JEB
01 KTM 400 EXC, 99 KTM 250 EXC, 99 KTM 200 EXC, 98 KTM 125 EXC, 98 KTM 380 MXC (gone)
96 KDX 200
 

Garyb

Member
Jul 20, 2000
211
0
When you put pressure on the syringe, pull the clutch lever all the way open...in the resting position the lever puts just enough force on the plunger to close the line if you have the release point adjusted...this happened to me the first time I tried bleeding my clutch
Gary

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Smail's98KTM

Member
Apr 10, 2001
25
0
I bled mine like this...<fill resivoir,tighten all fittings and bleeder, pump the clutch lever several times and hold, open bleeder slowly, closeand repeat until fluid comes out of the bleeder. You will need to fill the resivoir a couple of times during this operation....

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Katooms rule
 

SlowJack

Member
Jul 27, 2000
27
0
C -
When all else fails, go to the book. It may seem trite, but one of the first things I did was buy the KTM-issue syringe, tube, and special fitting that replaces your bleeder fitting at the bottom. When I have worked on my clutch, I have left the remaining fluid in, and sometimes have drained it all out to get a fresh start. Either way, the KTM rig works very well. It cost me a few bucks, but compared to what you've been through, it was well worth the several hours of frustration you've endured with no results. I'll spend a few $$ to save some time any day!
"You can do ANY job if you have the right tool."

Jack

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Coach in ND

Member
Mar 19, 2001
212
0
I bought a mighty vac thinking it was the cure to my week long clutch bleeding adventure but it didn't help.

The prob I discovered was small air bubbles in the master cylinder that I could get to bleed out. I finally read the manual and pushed the fluid up from the slave cylinder using some fuel line and a cap off some differential lube. I removed the bleed screw and pushed atf from the bottle until it appeared in the master cylinder. This takes some time. I then quickly screwed in the bleed screw. There's no need to bleed cause there's no trapped air in the slave cylinder to bleed.


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2001 KTM 400SX #529
2000 SVCC 125cc H.S. #1
SPONSORS: MA'S CYCLE, SIDI, WD-40, ACERBIS, SMITH, SPROCKET SPECIALISTS, N-STYLE, WER, DEVOL.
 

cphillips

Member
Feb 25, 2001
90
0
Didnt get a chance tonight to try all the bleeding tips. LONG day at work. I will have plenty time to go at it tomorrow after work. Surely, one of the excellent tips will work out for me.

My riding partner just called from his cozy vacation spot (would like to choke him) and said to be ready Saturday morning. Got to get the bike going - dont want to miss the ride.

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1999 KTM 250 E/XC
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
0
The Mitivac has a "blow" spout on it too. With the help of a friend, fill the mitivac catch tank with fluid and invert it. Pump the pump and blow the fluid up the hose, then when the air is gone attach it to the bleed nipple. Pump and blow fluid into the bleed nipple.

The point above about the lever being in a little bit and allowing the piston to cover the hole is a good one. Make sure the piston is allowed to come all the way out to its stop so the hole is uncovered.

Wrapping the bleed nipple threads with teflon plumber's tape is a help too.


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TexKDX
 

PhastPhart

Member
Dec 15, 2000
132
0
I recently put on my new braided clutch line and bled the line without any special tools.

Get a piece clear 1/4" plastic hose. Loosen the bleeder nippile and slip the plastic hose over the nipple. run it up and over to an empty oil bottle zip tied to the foot peg.
Take off the master cover and start adding fluid whil pumping the lever. The fluid will start coming up the plastic hose. Keep adding fluid and pumping the lever till there is no more air bubbles coming out. By running the hose up hill, it keeps fluid in the plastic hose and the air from coming back in the bleed valve. Takes about 15 minutes. Use type F auto transmission fluid for a really sweet feel. Hope this helps.

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JCV 220R

Member
Oct 13, 1999
90
0
I installed my new clutch hose last night and used the Mityvac to fill and bleed the system. As TexKDX said, I had to remove the bleeder nipple and wrap it in teflon tape. Then, I attached the Mityvac to the bleeder nipple and filled the master cylinder with ATF. I then pumped up the vac and cracked the nipple... I got tons of air and some fluid but I kept my eye on the fluid level in the MC and closed the bleeder when it got low.

After repeating the procedure several times, I was getting a big shot of fluid every time I cracked the bleeder. I was concerned because there was still a small stream of air bubbles each time but I think there was still a little air coming from around the threads of the fitting. I tightened everything and removed the vac. I then put a short piece of tubing on the bleeder, pumped the clutch lever and cracked the bleeder. The fluid that came into the tubing had absolutely no air bubbles in it and my clutch pull feels fine. I am assuming the system is well bled. What do you all think?

Next time I will fill the line from the bottom up the way TexKDX mentioned... it makes more sense
biggrin.gif


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Jay
2001 KTM 250 E/XC
NETRA & AMA Member

Chicken Wrist Racing
TWIST IT!!!!
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
0
JCV, one thing to add. When replacing the line w/ the stainless one, you can leave the bolt loose at the master cylinder and pump the fliud up from the slave cylinder until it runs out of the banjo joint. This saves having to run all the air thru the master cylinder, just out the line at the top.

This is messy but an easy way to tell when the air is mostly out of the line. Tighten the banjo bolt, then proceed with either or both methods with the mitivac.

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TexKDX
 

cphillips

Member
Feb 25, 2001
90
0
Just bled the clutch line. No problem after really unloosening the bleeder nipple. Got rid of the air bubbles fairly quickly. I used the magura mineral oil, the pull seems a little heavier than with the old fluid. I think that fluid was 10wt fork oil. One question - is it typical to acutually hear the clutch disengage just as you pull in the clutch lever? (With out the engine running of course) I dont recall this prior but then again I never listened for it.

Thanks for everyone's advise.

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1999 KTM 250 E/XC

[This message has been edited by cphillips (edited 04-11-2001).]
 

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