When I first took apart my clutch the inner hub had grooves on it so I replaced it. The basket had small grooves so I sanded them down. When I put it back together the clutch still drug. I took it back apart and measured the plates (should have done that the first time). Some were too thin so I replaced all of them. Thinking my problem was solved I put it back together and it still drags. I then figured the basket needed replacement and my local dealer agreed (naturally, more money for them). I just finished reinstalling it and it still drags! What am I doing wrong? I've replaced the basket, boss, and plates to no avail. What should I check next? For each part replaced I checked the action of the clutch before putting the cover on. How much does the pressure plate need to move out for it to disengage? Help me please, I'm getting frustrated and poor!
Help! My clutch still drags!
- Thread starter MarkME
- Start date
this is just a thought, but my YZ clutch had a pushrod (the rod that goes through the case get very sticky. I pulled it out from the right side of the bike and cleaned it. The clutch worked much better after that. Yours, being newer, is a bit different, but this might help.
bclapham
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Nov 5, 2001
- 4,340
- 0
what condition is your oil in? what oil is it and do you have enough? Have you played with the adjustment? Dial the on the fly adjuster all the way in and then set the slack with the adjuster in the middle of the cable.
The only prob i had with the clutch on my 01 was buying that stupid raptor lever (it came off quite quick)
The only prob i had with the clutch on my 01 was buying that stupid raptor lever (it came off quite quick)
Did you replace ALL the plates or just the fiber ones? If you reused the steels you must check them for warpage. The glass/feeler guage/eyeball method should tell if any are warped. It doesn't take a lot of distortion to make a clutch drag. Check the springs also, a weak spring may let the pressure plate release unevenly.
- Thread starter
- #16
I did replace all of the driven and friction plates. Is there supposed to be a ball at the end of the pushrod on the clutch side? I didn't see it when I had the clutch apart and I don't see one in the manual.
Before I installed the plates I made sure that the clutch boss turns freely. Good point about the springs. I measured them before and they were within spec but maybe there is enough variation to push the pressure plate unevenly.
Before I installed the plates I made sure that the clutch boss turns freely. Good point about the springs. I measured them before and they were within spec but maybe there is enough variation to push the pressure plate unevenly.
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B
biglou
MM-From reading all this and using my limited knowledge here, I would look at three things in this order: 1)This rod end (ball) bearing. Make sure it is there if it is supposed to be. 2) Worn/old/dirty/sticking cable. 2) Springs. Are they in spec? If not, replace them all. Heck, except for springs and a cable, there isn't a whole lot left that can be causing this!
- Thread starter
- #18
After thinking about it some more I think my problem is the bearing the basket sits on. If the clutch disengages the only other path for the torque to get from the engine to the trans is through the bearing. I should be able to check that by removing the plates and turning the engine. If the boss rotates too then it has to be the bearing. Of course I'm out of oil right now so I can't check it yet. I'll post again if this fixes the problem. If it doesn't would anybody be interested in buying a clutch from me? ;) Thanks for everybody's help. :thumb:
B
biglou
Duh...I just noticed that I can't count! LOL! Makes you feel real good about taking advice from ol' Lou, don't it! :confused:
Just by the the way you described it - you remove the shaft arm from clutch cover. Then - install the cover - then slide the shaft in cover ( the cable is connected to this shaft) . The trick - when you slide in the shaft in - the fron t edge needs to line up with the two marks in the case about 1/2" away. You will find the arm will go loose when you rotate it to the back of the engine - and tight when you move it forward. Again - it should get tight just as it comes inline with the marks. When you install the cable allow a few mm of play. This may or may not be your problem. Bob hogg
Hi - The clutch has a cover. A arm is attached inside the cover. The arm I'm talking about is that arm - the one in the cover. It has a small gear on the bottom and the clutch cable attaches to the top. So - remove that arm and install the cover. The top of this arm accepts the clutch cable. With the cover installed - slide this arm back in. Install it so the extension that holds the cable should line up between two marks on the crankcase. The marks are about 1/2" away. The are raised up about 1/16" +/-. Line that up with the clutch cable arm. This is an adjustment setup - and may not be your problem. Thanks Bob Hogg
MarkME, check this link and make sure you have all the parts in the proper order.
John
http://www.geocities.com/motoxrideryz2002/factmanclutch.html
John
http://www.geocities.com/motoxrideryz2002/factmanclutch.html
