Help w/ headlight wiring

[Josh D]

I recently bought a 97 KDX 200 and need some help. It came without a headlight, so the other day I ordered one of the UFO Twin headlights, 35w. I do not have the light switch either, and I don't see any wires to hook it up to. The bike also has had the taillight removed, but I don't need it anyway. It runs fine, but I would like to get this light hooked up so I can ride at night.

Will I need to buy a stock switch and/or some kind of wiring harness for this light to fit? I have looked at the micro f. diagram and it doesn't show anything about the wiring.

 

[moridin]

You wont have the juice to run that headlight - and in all honesty - the KDX light is designed to get you back in the event you get stuck out after dark. The stator just doesnt have the juice. You can run one of the lights just fine, but dont look for blinding brightness.

I would imagine the guy that strripped your light left the wiring up neer the stem somewhere - cjeck around for any wires that are capped and zip tied to the frame.

 

[canyncarvr]

Look for a yellow wire coming from the light coil (under the LH cover). Originally that wire went thru the light switch.

From the switch (as noted, it switches the unregulated coil output) the oem wiring went to the regulator (the two wire job mounted just behind the airbox) and taillight. Regulated voltage runs on the red wire. With the regulator in the circuit you can also run to the headlight(s).

Output of the oem system is around 45 watts. Nope...that's not going to run 2-35s. The most common choice of aftermarket coils from Electrex (Moose is the same) is rated at 70/75 watts depending on which label you read. It's not going to do a great job of lighting 2-35s either.

Changing the bulbs to a couple of 25s will work sorta-kinda (not very well) with the oem coil. They will work much better with the Electrex aftermarket coil.

You could just rewind the existing coil. With care and attention paid to winding it tight you can get a good bit more power out of the existing coil. No, it still isn't going to run a couple of 35s.

Keep in mind it's a matter of balance. Thicker wire gets you more current capability (less voltage in the same configuration) and more windings gets you more voltage (less current). Somewhere along the way you need to make a choice due to wattage requirements and space available. 'Space available' meaning you can't take some #12 wire and put twenty layers around some core plates and have it fit under the flywheel.

Have fun!

 

[Josh D]

Should I keep this light when I get it or send it back? I wouldn't think it would be too bad, the 78' Honda I have was bright enough for me to ride at night w/ a stock headlight. Also, will I need to buy a switch for it or not?

Thanks for the help!

 

[moridin]

You may want to go with a 30 watt single bulb (traditional) light setup. UFO makes a few of them. Your 1978 XL250 probably put out 100 watts. You will be underwhelmed with the KDX light - trust me.

I have seen brighter Mag Lights.

 

[canyncarvr]

You're welcome to keep it or send it back as you wish. Whatever floats your boat.

You just won't be running it as shipped with any decent results unless you change the bulbs.

Re: switch

Not required. You can hardwire the headlight shell if you wish.

What your '78 Honda did or didn't do isn't particularly germain, is it? ;)

Good Luck!