89kdx200rdr
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hows this plug look
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89kdx200rdr
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89kdx200rdr
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canyncarvr
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Check this thread, HERE! .
Notice the tip of the plug isn't of use in determining air/fuel mixture. The part that IS important is cropped off (or not there at all) your 3rd pic.
Read thru RR's input on the above thread and you'll know exactly what you're looking for.
Also that the dark swirly stuff is likely to do plug indexing (and thus which part of the plug was subject to transfer port gasses, which part was facing the exhaust port) and the effects of your particular fuel.
Keep in mind that a WOT plug chop means the throttle is HELD open during the shutdown process (pulling the clutch in, hitting the hill switch). You don't let the thottle close under deceleration.
A variation (improperly done) in WOT plug chop routine will likely show some color/deposits that may confuse the issue.
Notice the tip of the plug isn't of use in determining air/fuel mixture. The part that IS important is cropped off (or not there at all) your 3rd pic.
Read thru RR's input on the above thread and you'll know exactly what you're looking for.
Also that the dark swirly stuff is likely to do plug indexing (and thus which part of the plug was subject to transfer port gasses, which part was facing the exhaust port) and the effects of your particular fuel.
Keep in mind that a WOT plug chop means the throttle is HELD open during the shutdown process (pulling the clutch in, hitting the hill switch). You don't let the thottle close under deceleration.
A variation (improperly done) in WOT plug chop routine will likely show some color/deposits that may confuse the issue.
89kdx200rdr
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thanks for the thread. how do you keep track of the old threads i knew i had read that before but couldn't find it again.
after reading it again i dont think i had the plug in long enough. i warmed up on old plug. put the new one in and went wide open till i had to kill it as 4th gear was winding out or eat fence.
after reading it again i dont think i had the plug in long enough. i warmed up on old plug. put the new one in and went wide open till i had to kill it as 4th gear was winding out or eat fence.
canyncarvr
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Navigate to the thread you want to reference (or when you're on one you want to keep).
Click on <Favorites> to save it. You can name it anything you like.
When you want to reference that thread, click on favorites, navigate to it, right click on it, choose properties.
That shows the URL which can be copied to the clipboard, then pasted to the DRN thread as a reference...or click on the favorite you saved to open an IE window to go there.
Or...using microsoft's powertoys <send to> function, you can select the desired favorite and <send to clipboard as contents>. Then paste the clipboard info into the desired thread. That saves you a step.
As for mac users........who knows? ;) (happy ?)
Aren't you glad you asked?
As a second choice you might try a search with some key words; delineate by time/username if you know that.
10-15 seconds is enough. Being under some load is preferable to no load at all. Throttle must be all the way open, not a progressive opening/acceleration.
Have fun! When you arrive at your properly jetted destination, you'll be amazed at the power that's been 'hiding' in your scooter.
**edit***
Let the throttle go any time after the WOT in-gear pull..as long as the engine isn't engaged. Either have the clutch pulled, or preferably hold it open with the clutch pulled, the kill switch depressed and be on the brakes to stop.
It's kind of a multi-tasking event! ;)
Click on <Favorites> to save it. You can name it anything you like.
When you want to reference that thread, click on favorites, navigate to it, right click on it, choose properties.
That shows the URL which can be copied to the clipboard, then pasted to the DRN thread as a reference...or click on the favorite you saved to open an IE window to go there.
Or...using microsoft's powertoys <send to> function, you can select the desired favorite and <send to clipboard as contents>. Then paste the clipboard info into the desired thread. That saves you a step.
As for mac users........who knows? ;) (happy ?)
Aren't you glad you asked?
As a second choice you might try a search with some key words; delineate by time/username if you know that.
10-15 seconds is enough. Being under some load is preferable to no load at all. Throttle must be all the way open, not a progressive opening/acceleration.
Have fun! When you arrive at your properly jetted destination, you'll be amazed at the power that's been 'hiding' in your scooter.
**edit***
Let the throttle go any time after the WOT in-gear pull..as long as the engine isn't engaged. Either have the clutch pulled, or preferably hold it open with the clutch pulled, the kill switch depressed and be on the brakes to stop.
It's kind of a multi-tasking event! ;)
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89kdx200rdr
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thanks for the info cc. btw, i bought myself the df2 reed assy. man that thing is cool looking. i was thinking it would be better though to get my jetting where i want it with the boyesen reeds in now and then put the df2 in. what do you think? will they require rejetting?
canyncarvr
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IMO, going through a jetting process just to change 'stuff' so you can do it again is counterproductive.
Unless you want to establish a jetting baseline for the boyesen product you will save some time putting the DFII in now and then getting the jetset right.
Hard to say if a new reedset will require rejetting or not. Probably. Depends some on the condition of your current reeds and how well they are working.
Don't overlook the reed tension settings available on the DFII. Yeah, they say 'hi' is the best on everything they tested, but as long as you have the option you might as well give it a shot. Whatever suits you should tickle everyone else!
Have fun!!
Unless you want to establish a jetting baseline for the boyesen product you will save some time putting the DFII in now and then getting the jetset right.
Hard to say if a new reedset will require rejetting or not. Probably. Depends some on the condition of your current reeds and how well they are working.
Don't overlook the reed tension settings available on the DFII. Yeah, they say 'hi' is the best on everything they tested, but as long as you have the option you might as well give it a shot. Whatever suits you should tickle everyone else!
Have fun!!
Why do you suggest holding the throttle open? I would pull the clutch,hold kill switch, and let off throttle simultaneously.
The gear you are in shouldn't matter. What you want is to be under a load and the bike running on the main jet (wide open) for a small amount of time.
The gear you are in shouldn't matter. What you want is to be under a load and the bike running on the main jet (wide open) for a small amount of time.
canyncarvr
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re: 'Why do you suggest holding the throttle open? '
If the throttle is held open, there's no question of it being closed at the wrong time.
And you won't see the effect of fuel dumps into the cylinder on the plug.
If the throttle is released, exactly when does that happen? Just before the clutch is pulled? Just before the kill switch is pressed?
Sure, 'simultaneously' means 'at the same time'. And that's just peachy. But, the ability to follow instructions being somewhat varied, the fewer variables the better.
Besides, the first statement was, 'Let the throttle go any time after the WOT in-gear pull..as long as the engine isn't engaged.' The second, prefaced with 'preferably' is my preference.
Doesn't have to be yours, nor is it a requirement.
re:'The gear you are in shouldn't matter.'
Technically, no. But you do want the bike under load. Generally a bit tough to do that in the first few gears.
Why do I think an object lesson in semantics is on the way? ;)
If the throttle is held open, there's no question of it being closed at the wrong time.
And you won't see the effect of fuel dumps into the cylinder on the plug.
If the throttle is released, exactly when does that happen? Just before the clutch is pulled? Just before the kill switch is pressed?
Sure, 'simultaneously' means 'at the same time'. And that's just peachy. But, the ability to follow instructions being somewhat varied, the fewer variables the better.
Besides, the first statement was, 'Let the throttle go any time after the WOT in-gear pull..as long as the engine isn't engaged.' The second, prefaced with 'preferably' is my preference.
Doesn't have to be yours, nor is it a requirement.
re:'The gear you are in shouldn't matter.'
Technically, no. But you do want the bike under load. Generally a bit tough to do that in the first few gears.
Why do I think an object lesson in semantics is on the way? ;)
No lessons here. Just curious on why you would keep the throttle open. It is called "throttle chop" is it not? Even if you let off the throttle early, I doubt very seriously the results would vary much if any.
And load can be obtained in any gear....you will just be going faster in 6th than you would be in 3rd. A small hill will suffice.
And load can be obtained in any gear....you will just be going faster in 6th than you would be in 3rd. A small hill will suffice.
Jim Crenca
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I disagree both with throttle chop semantic as well as load issue.
6th gear WO on a flat field is different than WO 1st gear up a hill.
I believe that is generaly accepted that a single cylinder 2-stroke will generate accurate WOT plug chop information when performed in at least 4th gear or higher; a slight grade to maintain load is acceptable.
Leaving throtlle WO can only be good and possibly elliminate incorrect process due to human element.
6th gear WO on a flat field is different than WO 1st gear up a hill.
I believe that is generaly accepted that a single cylinder 2-stroke will generate accurate WOT plug chop information when performed in at least 4th gear or higher; a slight grade to maintain load is acceptable.
Leaving throtlle WO can only be good and possibly elliminate incorrect process due to human element.
I may learn something here, and am sure willing to...
If I have my bike at 9000 RPM in 3rd gear under a load, how can being in 5th or 6th at 9000 RPM under a load be different on the plug?
Isn't gearing "after" the fact?
If I have my bike at 9000 RPM in 3rd gear under a load, how can being in 5th or 6th at 9000 RPM under a load be different on the plug?
Isn't gearing "after" the fact?
89kdx200rdr
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jay, i think it has to do with the time it takes for the plug to obtain some meaningful coloring. i wouldnt run my bike in 3rd wot for 15 sec. but i would in 5th or 6th if i had the room to do it.
89kdx200rdr
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jamin326, right now i have 45,155,1173 3rd pos. a/s 1.25 with 93 and amsoil 2000 @ 50:1. fmf fatty, turbine core, no a/b lid, new freshly oiled uni filter, new boyesen power reeds. plug is a b9es. i think i'm 1600 ft asl.
89kdx200rdr
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hey cc, thats kinda what i thought. the df2 looks like it has to flow more so i didnt know. what pipe do you have on your bike now and what setting do you like with it? from what i've read they make a top end and bottom end pipe for the 95's and up. i'm assuming the fatty for the 94 and below is an all around pipe. i was thinking of trying the df2's on high. then adding the torque ring i also have waiting to go in. i figured they'd even each other out as far as picking up some top and bottom end.
canyncarvr
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And a semantics issue is exactly what this is.
re:'The gear you are in shouldn't matter.'
Technically, no.
Meaning it shouldn't matter. It doesn't matter. It is obviously the wide-open-throttle part that is the issue. The point is being on the main jet circuit of the carbonator.
Yes, gearing is after the fact. But it is exactly gearing that makes it more likely to have the engine under load @ WOT when in 5-6th as opposed to 1-2-3.
If gearing doesn't matter, keep your bike in 6th all the time (if you have a six to get into).
Chop: To cut.......kind'a like 'chopping' the ignition.
Now I can hear about giving a definition of the verb 'chop'. ;)
Again, a personal preference...but around here WOT in 3rd gear with a load on the bike is going to mean a pretty nasty hillclimb. Not some place I want to be intent on holding that throttle open at any cost.
But the upper reaches of a number of roads on BLM land offer excellent loads in 5th/6th.
You can always drag the brake......
'Semantics' is arguing whether or not 3rd or 6th is the gear to use. It doesn't matter! If you can run WOT long enough to get a mixture ring at the base of a new plug, what gear you are in matters not a whit.
Recall the 'DO NOT CLICK ON THIS' awhile back that referenced arguing on the internet?
Well, here 'ya go! I seem to be arguing that I'm not.....arguing!
BTW, that was hilarious!!
re:'The gear you are in shouldn't matter.'
Technically, no.
Meaning it shouldn't matter. It doesn't matter. It is obviously the wide-open-throttle part that is the issue. The point is being on the main jet circuit of the carbonator.
Yes, gearing is after the fact. But it is exactly gearing that makes it more likely to have the engine under load @ WOT when in 5-6th as opposed to 1-2-3.
If gearing doesn't matter, keep your bike in 6th all the time (if you have a six to get into).
Chop: To cut.......kind'a like 'chopping' the ignition.
Now I can hear about giving a definition of the verb 'chop'. ;)
Again, a personal preference...but around here WOT in 3rd gear with a load on the bike is going to mean a pretty nasty hillclimb. Not some place I want to be intent on holding that throttle open at any cost.
But the upper reaches of a number of roads on BLM land offer excellent loads in 5th/6th.
You can always drag the brake......
'Semantics' is arguing whether or not 3rd or 6th is the gear to use. It doesn't matter! If you can run WOT long enough to get a mixture ring at the base of a new plug, what gear you are in matters not a whit.
Recall the 'DO NOT CLICK ON THIS' awhile back that referenced arguing on the internet?
Well, here 'ya go! I seem to be arguing that I'm not.....arguing!
BTW, that was hilarious!!
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I'm not wanting to argue the point at all. I guess all I am saying is basically what you said, cc....it is having the bike under a load while on the main circuit that matters. The sort of riding I do, I rarely see 5th gear. And I have a sixth gear on my current bike...at least I think I do. :)
Jim Crenca
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When jetting big block Chevy drag cars (on city streets when necessary) I can tell you that you can't put enough load on the enigne in 1st or 2nd gears to get any kind of accurate "real" plug reading.
I have found the same to be true on my KDX.
I believe that it is not the same load on an engine in lower gears but a PM to Rich R would get you an answer based in engineering & not opinion.
I have found the same to be true on my KDX.
I believe that it is not the same load on an engine in lower gears but a PM to Rich R would get you an answer based in engineering & not opinion.
canyncarvr
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My point exactly.
Anything that is going to present any load to my bike WOT in 3rd gear is likely something I'll never see. If I did it sure wouldn't be for more than a second or three.
Haven't seen it yet.
Don't wanna, either! ;)
Saw an early '70s SS454 chevelle the other day. No chrome. All color. Gave me goosebumps. It was bee-you-ti-ful!
Anything that is going to present any load to my bike WOT in 3rd gear is likely something I'll never see. If I did it sure wouldn't be for more than a second or three.
Haven't seen it yet.
Don't wanna, either! ;)
Saw an early '70s SS454 chevelle the other day. No chrome. All color. Gave me goosebumps. It was bee-you-ti-ful!
Jim Crenca
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My last cool street car was a 1970 SS396 Chevelle (red w/ black stripes) that was completely stock; and if you guys think jetting these Khein carbs is hard, you got to get your hands into a Quadrjet and make it perfect; having a buddy who campaigns a winning Super Stock class car is a huge advantage.
I aint buyin it. :)
Upper circuit with load is upper circuit with load.
Only cars I've ever raced had Quadrajets on 327 and 400 SB's, but only 3rd and reverse in the gearbox. We managed fine with only one gear.
(well, we had an assortment of rear end gears...but y'all may not be familiar with REAL car racing) :)
Upper circuit with load is upper circuit with load.
Only cars I've ever raced had Quadrajets on 327 and 400 SB's, but only 3rd and reverse in the gearbox. We managed fine with only one gear.
(well, we had an assortment of rear end gears...but y'all may not be familiar with REAL car racing) :)
Jim Crenca
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I don't really care what you're buying.
Glad you have an opinion
After searching your posts in KDX forum I would have to "consider the source" when evaluating technical advice.
Glad you have an opinion
After searching your posts in KDX forum I would have to "consider the source" when evaluating technical advice.
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