hydraulic clutch..worth the money?

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Aug 21, 2003
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#1
hi guys i bought myself a 02 CR 125 about 3 months ago and now im thinking about putting some aftermarket parts on it. one of the things is a Magura hydraulic clutch. What will the the hydraulic clutch do for me/the bike to make it better.

some other thing im planing on gettin are

-procircuit platinum pipe and R 304 shorty silencer

-vforce reeds

-and renthal twinwalls

any information on these products would be greatly appreciated. If you could tells what u think is good/bad about these things or if u recomened a different kind. thx
 

DougRoost

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#2
All that stuff's stock on a KTM! The biggest advantage of the juice clutch is it's self adjusting and consistent. Just make sure it includes a durable line as the cheaper plastic ones have been known to get damaged and once they leak you're clutchless.
 

marcusgunby

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#3
I wouldnt get one for the CR-i had one-it leaked early on and needed a rebuild, and it makes changing jetting almost impossible.Also it doesnt make the clutch lighter as many people think.Maybe try the hebo version as it mounts differently.

The PC pipe and v force should work ok.
 
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#4
Don't do it!! I've seen so many KTM's with failed clutches.. There is no advantage to a hydraulic clutch on a bike.

Simply spend some bucks, and get yourself a good forged clutch lever, with a bearing in it, like Ride Engineering's or Motion Pro's.. Then get a Motion Pro T2 cable. That cable is worth it's weight in gold. The difference is in the way the housing is made, instead of being a twisted housing that tries to compress/twist when being used, the T2 is straight, so there's no or should I say way less compression of the housing. It works, I just did a back to back test on my bike after my T2 wore out, I put the stock back on.. Then bought a T2 again.. Worlds of difference.

Jon
 
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#6
Also it doesnt make the clutch lighter as many people think.

Is that really true or was the clutch light to start with? i was looking for a way to reduce the pull for my 500.
 

marcusgunby

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#7
Its all to do with mechanical leverage-if you want a lighter pull you have to use more piston travel to achieve it.Like fitting a longer lever to the std perch.The hydro clutch will give a lighter pull on some models depending on the leverage ratio they have std, compared to the hydro.On the Cr125 it doesnt make it lighter-in fact a stdCR setup with a good cable is lighter.
 
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#8
A contributing factor in my selling my '03 450 EXC, was untimely failure of the hydraulic clutch. I have lost the hyd twice in tip overs. My fault, but having no clutch in the middle of a rock section in Baja is no fun, 2nd time was with a well placed EE hose. Botton line here is: CABLES DON'T LEAK!
 

Vytas

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#10
I don't know what hydraulic clutches you guys have run, but right now I have a HEBO on my RM250.  I installed it over two years ago and it has been one of the best mods that I have done to date.  The clutch pull on my 250 is lighter than my kids CR80, with a new cable and springs.  I can pull the clutch all day long with one finger, never again will I run a cable on a big bike.  At the track I have tried pulling some of the clutch levers on a KTM SX65 and they are about the same as my RM250 :thumb: .

BTW:  Best mod to date is "Mo Better Porting" done by Eric Gorr. :aj:
 
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#11
i have a hebo clutch on my bike and i will never go back to cable (unless money is a factor) clutch pull is allways consistent and its not nessesarely lighter than stock but i have yet have problems with it ported engin did do alot more then a pipe or my reeds tho
 
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#12
I love my hydro clutch on GG 200.Middle finger pull all day long,very easy.Always adjusted right.

That being said it did fail on me yesterday.I stoped pulled in the clutch and master cylinder parts landed on the ground.No crash involved it just fell apart.The plunger came out of the master.I was 3 hours from home for a wekend of riding.Thought about packing it but decided to spend the rest of the day clutchless.

It was interesting in the rock gardens for sure.Starting off sure beat up my gearbox were I could not get a good roll going.

I will cary spares in the truck next time out.

Ed
 

DougRoost

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#13
This reminds me of an article on MC's KTM awhile back, where he was praising the constant and easy pull of the hydraulic clutch with no need for adjustments as a moto wears on, etc. When he rode for Yamaha and Honda he never saw the value of it. We call that "sell what you got" in our industry.

Think of the old days in cars where you had mechanical brakes vs. today's hydraulic brake systems. Nobody wanted to go back to mechanical once the hydraulic system was perfected. Notice your dirt bike doesn't use mechanical brakes, either. Sounds like some of the folks above had problems with aftermarket juice clutches.
 

Yogurt

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#14
Freestyle-
The V-Force reeds and any aftermarket exhaust system are worthy mods to any bike. In my opinion, the V-Force reeds are the best bolt on performance engine mod once it's jetted correctly.

As far as the Renthal Twinwalls, coming from another rubber-mounted Honda owner, learn from my mistakes. I bought Atomic 22 big bar mounts, but because of the rubber mounts, they allow the bar mount legs to bend or become tweaked. I would invest in a complete quality upper triple clamp unit, such as a solid mount or the RG3 4-way rubber post system. I have TwinWalls, and I love them, but I'm on my 2nd set of Atomic 22 big bar mounts, and on both sets I have bent the legs on them (the part that bolts through the top clamp). It's like the bars are bent, but they're not, it's the bar clamp.
 
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#15
I have never busted my AJP on my GG and I crash not alot but its not like I am never gonna crash I us teflon tape under my perch mounts and tighten the bolts enough so it just takes two hands to rotate the assembly. When I have crashed clutch side the perch master cyl. rotates downward and has never damaged and this is on rocks and steep dirt banks.