If I'm lucky, it's just the clutch

- short version -
1 Tricked out 98 YZ250 Trail Bike for sale. (friend selling for me places it in his front yard against my recommendation) :bang: :bang: :bang:
2 Someone liked it enough to buy, but didn't have the money
3 Reported bike stolen
4 16 months go by
5 Receive phonecall from police to go to impound lot to get bike back
- /short version -

I perform an inspection of the bike and note the following:

Generic Gear Shifter (poorly fitting, mostly stripped shift shaft)
Weeping fork seals
Broken fork protectors
Kill switch missing the button
Clutch is present, but non-existant in action
Weeping rear shock seal
Scuffed plastic all over
Torn Seat
Cracked fenders
Missing bark buster on 1 side
Worn out Clutch Cable
Worn out rear tire
Worn out sprockets & chain

Bike started on 2nd kick, but I didn't ride it more than about 25 yards

Symptoms:

Start bike, pull clutch in, place in first gear, bike immediately tries to move like there isn't even a clutch present and it stalls.

Started bike, pushed it and popped into first gear. Ran well through 3 gears but couldnt engage 4th or 5th (I thought it was due to the generic gear shifter that doesn't fit well)

I did not notice any sounds that would indicate bent/broken shift forks, but after I couldnt immediately get 4th or 5th gear, I shut the bike off until I could replace the gearshifter and then investigate further.

Replaced gear shifter with proper unit and I can shift through all gears pretty easily (with the bike turned off and using my hand)

Removed the clutch cable to install a new one and noticed the clutch push lever (the arm on the case that the cable connects to) can be moved throughout its stroke with no effort whatsoever. :ohmy:

When I pulled the clutch cover off and removed the clutch plates, I didn't notice any visible damage.

Once I placed my finger against the clutch pushrod, and my friend moved the clutch push lever he noticed resistance which wasn't there before. I'm thinking that maybe the boss clutch was damaged in some way, so I ordered the following parts.

New friction and pressure plates (EBC)
Springs (screws and washers) (EBC)
Boss Clutch (OEM)
Push Rod (OEM)
Push Lever (OEM)

I need someone to review the list to let me know if I forgot something, or if you think it's a transmission problem and not a clutch issue at all...(the missing OEM gear shifter has me worried that they may have crashed it and the gear shifter took a major impact and caused transmission problems)

zero_it said:

Bummer about your bike being stolen. I've always considered it risky business to invite total strangers into my home/shop to look at a bike I have for sale. Trading them in has become the chosen way of doing things around here to avoid the looky-lo syndrome and possible late night burglar.

Anyhow, sounds like you're replacing almost everything that might be causing the described problem. Also make sure you have the correct clutch lever and lever perch so that you get full travel when you pull the cluth in. Seems like you were probably left with a shift lever that either hit the ignition cover or frame, preventing you from getting into the higher gears. That may have been the wrong bend of shift lever or it was placed on the wrong splines on the shift shaft. Perhaps the clutch lever is incorrect as well. Finally, the cam that the clutch arm attaches to may be excessively worn where it contacts the end of the pushrod.

Good luck with piecing your bike back together.

Click to expand...

I bolded that one section of your reply because I noticed that when I moved the clutch push lever (they call it a push lever, but I believe you referenced it as a "cam"...I think we're talking about the same part) through its stroke, it reached a certain point and then I felt a "click". I pulled out the clutch push lever as well as the push rod and inspected the lever...sure enough there was a small, but distinctly visible notch on the lever so I went ahead and ordered a new push rod and push lever

elcamino12sec said:

Not to be rude but it sounds like with all that would be needed in repairs to maker her new again, suspension front and rear rebuild, plastics, basicly all the wearable parts, tires, chain, cables, etc.... it may be a better deal to start fresh with a newer used bike and part out the one you have. However it sounds like you have covered all the basics with your clutch issues, you may also want to replace the needle bearings too, if I recall they are cheap and I figure you might as well replace them while you have it apart. You have my sympathy with the bike being stolen, that really sucks. I hope the folks who stole it find shelter in the county jail.

Click to expand...

I understand where you're coming from, and I don't think you were being rude...it's just that after doing all the research into what it would take to make the bike whole again, as compared to procuring a replacement and modding it to my needs, it's actually cheaper to fix than to replace.

I had the bike pretty customized:

Heavier flywheel
Lighting kit installed for headlight/tail light
Cycra 3.7 gallon tank
Factory Connection Aluminum frame protectors
Factory Connection Aluminum skid plates
Aluminum disc protectors
Case was blueprinted
Jug was ported and polished
Heavier springs in the forks
Heavier springs on the shock

To replicate those mods on a replacement bike would be cost-prohibitive since I'm pretty sure it would cost more than the $750 I'm spending to repair it...

And, when all is said and done, the bike will have a funny history to it. ;)

2strokerfun said:

Plus the fact that it's your bike. No one wants to see their baby trashed and thrown away. If everything goes smoothly, it'll be a really solid bike again.
Good luck, sounds like you've got a good grasp of the situation...

Click to expand...

I hate necro posting, especially on my own threads, but I was looking through my photobucket site and found some pics of my bike before it was stolen


Before2