bucketeer

Member
Nov 18, 2005
6
0
Will removing 2 24 x 0.1 shims from the fork compression stack of DRZ400E forks make them too soft?, they're way harsh standard................any thoughts.
I've never played with valving before, played around on the shim program to find a setup without any big spikes, this setup works out to be between 87% (low force) to 81% (high force) compared to standard. BTW I'm running heaver (.48)springs, which don't seem to ever bottom, no matter what I throw them at.
So will they blow through with this setup, I do bush (woods) riding and a little street motarding with a wheel change.
 
Last edited:

DH41

Member
Nov 13, 2005
12
0
well I guess my first question is, are those spring recomended for your weight? if so my next question is, where are they harsh? low speed, mid, high? im assuming low but i dont like to assume, their is a lot you can do before re-valving, first decrease compression damping(with clickers), lower oil height in 5mm increments, make sure you have the right springs, change oil weight, and if needed re-valve, yeah I think in that order too ;) I hope this helps a little. But as far as to just taking out shims from your low speed, I wouldnt recomend it, how about taking 24.15's and going to 24.10's? just more 24.1's? mx-tech has a shim conversion formula if thats the route you have to go.
Dan
 

JackDeath

Member
Feb 10, 2004
2
0
Bucketeer I have done that mod to my forks mate and it makes them much better over rocks and logs.
I may even remove 3 24 x 0.1 shims as the front is still staying up in the stroke and I love rock riding. I also run .48 springs in the forks.The .48 springs help the front stay up under hard braking on the street.
 

bucketeer

Member
Nov 18, 2005
6
0
Thanks for the reply guys,

Jack,
did you take both shims off the LS stack or one each of the Low & high like me?, I haven't tried it offroad yet, but it seems much more compliant on road, better at riding up gutters too
where do you ride around Townsville, it's my old stomping ground, I was born & breed there before moving to the deep south (Victoria) 3 years ago
Dan,
The harshness is everywhere but worst in the high speed, when I first rode the bike, when new setup from the factory, it wanted to ricochet of everything, backing off the clickers helped, stiffer springs helped more.
These are the Race-Tech recommended springs for my weight, possibly a little light as I carry a heavy tool belt & back pack usually.
I didn't fool with the oil height but can't see it making that much difference.
The stack only has .1mm shims until it gets down to 14mm diameter, bit late me thinks, the low speed stack as standard consisted of 6 24 x .1 shims

Cheers
Peter
 

JackDeath

Member
Feb 10, 2004
2
0
Hi Peter

Both shims I removed are off the low speed stack as I never liked the idea of so many 24's stuck together in one spot.
I ride with the DSMRA most of the time now and that takes me up north from the old mining fields at Maytown and Parmer river to out west around Ravenswood and down south around Bowen and Mackay .I been up to the Cape York too now thats a great ride .
In town most of the old riding spots have been closed down over the years but you can still ride some of Mount Louisa and the old salt flats at Oonoonba and Stuart.

Going riding this weekend to Hellsgate
That is as long as the dam Cyclones stop and all this rain goes away . hehehehe
 

bucketeer

Member
Nov 18, 2005
6
0
How it all went - DRZ400 fork improvements

Just for the record, as I couldn't find any info anywhere when I was looking:
I removed 1 24mm shim from either side of the transition on the compression and the 24mm shim from the high speed on the rebound.

This improved things quite a bit but I think it still needs work, although I'm not sure where just yet.....I now need to improve the rear as it's now behaves worse than the front.
I used to run the rebound clickers fully out and the comp mostly out, there now set midway (haven't played with them yet).
Hope this helps some one..

Anyone got any tips for the Shock?
 
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