I am in the process of rebuilding my 98 KDX 220R for the first time and have a couple of questions. Before I put the cylinder back on should I hone it out or not. Where it has the nickle cell coating should I leave it alone. Also could some one give me the ring end gap specs for the 220R I'm using a kdx 200 manual to go by and it says that the range is from 0.15mm - 0.35mm with service range at 0.65mm. When I put the new ring in to check it I'm getting 0.32mm:think (The old ring gap was 0.63mm) I am hoping this will get me through the season and this winter may have to do something with the motor. What is the common procedure once you get to your limits, bore and sleeve?
KDX 220 Rebuild (Help Dave)
- Thread starter Sure Shot
- Start date
David Trustrum
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 25, 2001
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Wrong Dave but what the..
Can’t imagine the 200 & 220s will be any different.
So what the manual is saying is the manufacturing spread when you put a new ring in a good barrel is .15-.35. So yours is within that limit so smile. The higher end of that limit but some new bikes will tend toward there.
Ok that is the simplistic assessment. I’m guessing you don’t have an accurate internal measuring stick.
Run your fingernail to the top of the barrel. Is there a lip? Not really?, then your barrel is fine. There may be some carbon build up so remove that with some scotchbrite (plastic pan cleaner) before you do this. In fact I would clean the barrel up with this rather than hone it if you don’t want to enlarge the barrel. Infact I'd never risk honing it. Scrub it out nicely with your mother’s toothbrush & some kero, or better yet Spectro brake clean or equivalent. Jes like nu.
The old ring is being replaced just at the right time so pat yourself on the back, but pay attention to where you are going. Enjoy that nice new crisp ring feeling.
Can’t imagine the 200 & 220s will be any different.
So what the manual is saying is the manufacturing spread when you put a new ring in a good barrel is .15-.35. So yours is within that limit so smile. The higher end of that limit but some new bikes will tend toward there.
Ok that is the simplistic assessment. I’m guessing you don’t have an accurate internal measuring stick.
Run your fingernail to the top of the barrel. Is there a lip? Not really?, then your barrel is fine. There may be some carbon build up so remove that with some scotchbrite (plastic pan cleaner) before you do this. In fact I would clean the barrel up with this rather than hone it if you don’t want to enlarge the barrel. Infact I'd never risk honing it. Scrub it out nicely with your mother’s toothbrush & some kero, or better yet Spectro brake clean or equivalent. Jes like nu.
The old ring is being replaced just at the right time so pat yourself on the back, but pay attention to where you are going. Enjoy that nice new crisp ring feeling.
dhoward
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Feb 7, 2000
- 452
- 2
Almost all of the specs for the 200 also apply to the 220. Dave's right about using the ScotchBrite to deglaze the cylinder, but you could also use a silicon carbide ball hone a little smaller than the actual bore diameter as recommended by Eric Gorr....
Canadian Dave
Super Power AssClown
- Apr 28, 1999
- 1,202
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Honestly Sure Shot I wouldn't even consider reringing the factory piston. The 220s have had sporadic problems with pistons cracking. The problem is accelerated when the engine's output is increased. Not every piston is going to be defective, its hit and miss.
My suggestion would be to bite the bullet and order yourself a Wiseco piston kit.
Make sure when you remove the nut from the top of the KIPS shaft you remember that its REVERSE thread and that you must support the shaft when removing and installing the nut to prevent damaging the shaft. Grab the shaft just under the gear where its diameter is the largest. Use your choice of pliers etc.
The factory piston is still an excellent choice for 200 owners.
David
My suggestion would be to bite the bullet and order yourself a Wiseco piston kit.
Make sure when you remove the nut from the top of the KIPS shaft you remember that its REVERSE thread and that you must support the shaft when removing and installing the nut to prevent damaging the shaft. Grab the shaft just under the gear where its diameter is the largest. Use your choice of pliers etc.
The factory piston is still an excellent choice for 200 owners.
David
dhoward
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Feb 7, 2000
- 452
- 2
Dave, when I did my water pump seal last winter I used an 8 or 9mm (I think) open end wrench to hold the sector gear at the end of the shaft, and a box end to remove the nut. Seemed to work pretty good, and didn't score or ding the shaft.
Just an idea...
Just an idea...
Canadian Dave
Super Power AssClown
- Apr 28, 1999
- 1,202
- 0
Good idea Dan. Thanks for passing it along.
David:)
David:)
200 top end
I'm getting ready to do top end on my 97 200. are you guys sayin to ring the existing stock piston or a new stock piston? I want to get my parts ordered up ahead of time, anything else I might need other than piston,rings,wrist pin and gasket kit? What about this power valve? I'm sure it needs cleaned out. It's been 25 years since I've done one of these and they were all air cooled.I just finished my 1st 4 stroke rebuild so I believe I can do the KDX but any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Sandy Jackson
I'm getting ready to do top end on my 97 200. are you guys sayin to ring the existing stock piston or a new stock piston? I want to get my parts ordered up ahead of time, anything else I might need other than piston,rings,wrist pin and gasket kit? What about this power valve? I'm sure it needs cleaned out. It's been 25 years since I've done one of these and they were all air cooled.I just finished my 1st 4 stroke rebuild so I believe I can do the KDX but any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Sandy Jackson
