KDX FAQ threads merged

[Michelle]

Faq

If you spot anything obvious, please email me so I can correct my posts.
There is a wealth of information in amongst the KDX forum but I'll try to cover the most commonly asked questions. Some may seem a bit obscure and others will have been missed out. If you have ideas for other questions that you've seen often in here, and are willing to research & contribute, please email me the question & post number, post your answer and I'll add it to the first post so that we've got some kind of index. Or just email the question & if I've got time, I'll look into it. (it'd be nice if whilst others researched info for themselves, kept a record so it could be added). If you want to add to one of my answers, email me the info & I'll edit the post. If we could try to keep it a tidy thread it'll make life easier. I don't have any moderator abilities at cleaning up threads, so am hoping that we can all work together in this.

I'm also hoping this will complement Canadian Dave's pages and be of some use for all of us - I've had no feedback if I'm wasting my time or not, so just keep an eye on the "post read" count, which is not an accurate indication as to whether anyone is really reading it or seeing it's just me waffling.

Oh, other questions I've got to tackle: what pipe (covered - but to have more info added in once the search function is up & running again) & which spark arrestor (plus how can I tell I've got one), what piston (plus references to proof of 220 pistons grenading), also FMF/pipe quality, leaking exhaust, XR fork springs (with coverage of installation), modified kickstarter & problems with stocker, radiator overflow bottle. Jetting I won't touch, as I don't understand it at all, but there are plenty of old threads & articles covering it - if someone would be willing to locate rational threads, could you please cover it. The only thing I will happily direct people to are the JustKDX site jetting pages and Eric Gorr's web page ( www.eric-gorr.com ) But again, email me if you think of any others - this is not for me, this is for all of us. (I'm not going through all the threads, just looking at likely ones & hopefully choosing relevant information)

Post 2: Rattling KDX
Post 3: Carb mod for 200s & 220s (incomplete reply, still being worked on)
Post 4: Lowering a KDX also includes links for sources for longer suspension rods
Post 5: How/why to modify the airbox lid
Post 6: 200 v 220
Post 7: What pipe is best for my bike and what manufacturers make one?
Post 8: Help, my brake caliper pins are stuck, what do I do?
Post 9: Is there an MX fender for my KDX? )thanks KDX Freestyle :)

Sorry this has taken so long, it's not forgotten, just life gets in the way, along with ride time :) Hopefully over the Xmas break I'll find more time.

 

[Michelle]

My bike makes a rattling sound at idle, is this normal?

Yes. Many discussions have been held about this and the cause has not been determined. Jeff Fredette recommends running a full quart of oil in the transmission and the noise should lessen.

If the noise you’re concerned about does not quieten down with more oil or gets louder with higher RPMs, maybe you should inspect the KIPS valve to ensure it’s working correctly. A good thread about this is: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=71461

 

[Michelle]

My 220 has a 33mm carb, is this better than a larger carb?

No. The 200 has a 35mm carb which is possible to bolt straight onto the 220. A cheaper option would be to bore the 33mm carb out to a 36mm with a divider plate.

It is not just for 220s either: In the words of Carncarvr: “How it changes the 200
Better everything. You will not be disappointed! As good an improvement as a pipe.
Going from 35mm to 36mm is going to hurt overrev? No.
Why not buy a larger bore carb?
Cuz that carb still would not have the divider installed, would not have the jet screen cleaned up, would not have the TV machined.
Besides not fitting for diddle.”
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=33209

EDIT: as at 31/3/03 (NZ time) this topic is under discussion under a separate thread - Michelle

 

[Michelle]

How do I lower my KDX?

You can get longer suspension rods ( http://www.koubalink.com/kdxinstall.html or www.devolracing.com )
You can cut down the seat
You can get another sole placed on your boots
You can get it professionally lowered using spacers to reduce suspension travel.
Before you do any of these, ride the bike a bit longer & see how you go, then decide which option is best for you.
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=8149
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=74204

 

[Michelle]

Why/how should I modify my airbox lid.

The first thing a KDX owner does is remove the snorkel to allow better air flow into the airbox. Those of us who bought a 2nd hand bike have probably never seen one, but it sits at the back of the airbox lid. Removal leaves a hole so the air can flow through a bit more.
Drilling more holes in the airbox lid means even better air flow. Total removal of the airbox lid is fine, but it will mean relocation of the CDI unit. (see post by Lew)

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rushbe/airboxmod.jpg is a good picture of a modified lid. Picture thanks to Brush.

“If you're worried about dirt getting into the air box, try this.
Cut a piece of panty hose(nylons) to size and stretch it tightly over the open air box.
This will prevent any dirt from getting in and will act as a drum skin bouncing off any dirt. Also acts as a pre filter.” (posted by BucKat, 25.1.03) thread: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=70506

“I removed mine completely. This way I have the option of putting it back stock should the need arise. You can relocate the CDI to the cross member. There is already a tapped whole and reuse the bolt from the original location. I did place some rubber faucet washers under it to reduce vibration”. ~ Lew (25.1.03, thread as above)

 

[Michelle]

220 v 200, which is best?

Best information: Dave’s pages: http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/200vs220.html
“200: If you plan to leave your bike absolutely stock, the 200 is the better all around terrain bike. Nice wide power spread with ample low end power and some upper rpm power available if you want to scream it out. Note that by "scream it", I mean relative to the 220. Compared to a typical 125, both the 200 and the 220 are low rpm torquers.
220: The 220 is a complete torque monster in stock form. It is the king of tight sections, the master of nasty conditions. If you want low end power, this baby has it, and lots of it. Probably an ideal bike for tight, rocky, hilly, terrain. The engine is so strong down low, it can be tough to stall. To pull a wheelie, shift up a gear. The 220 will easily pull a gear higher than the 200 in the same conditions, and probably needs to, as it does not turn nearly the revs as the stock 200.”

Now, if you’re asking why Kawasaki makes both models, email them & if you find out please let us know ;)

An interesting thread about a 220 vs bored-out 200 (Eric Gorr bored out to a 225): http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=67502

One thing to keep in mind before purchase of either a 200 or 220 – local class rules. Here in New Zealand we have under-200s and over-200s, which means a 220 would be competing against a KX250, CR500, KTM250 etc etc (no, we don’t have an open class).

 

[Michelle]

What pipe is best for my bike and what manufacturers make one?

Manufacturers:
FMF – make both a rev (~30) & a torque pipe (~35) (alpha prefixes before the numbers are the type of finish, the important part is the number)
Pro Circuit (Platinum or Works, no difference in pipe, just finish)
Bills Pipe (89-94, 95-03+) – both torque and rev pipe
DynoPort (95-03+)
Doma (95-03+)

The Doma is reported to be similar to the Pro Circuit and Rev pipes (reference same thread as comments by CC).

The FMF Rev/Desert (~30) pipe performs best on the 220 and the Torque/Woods (~35) pipe performs best on the 200. Confusion does occur due to the 30 pipe sometimes being called a “Torque” pipe for the 220, hence, keep the numbers in mind when ordering a new pipe. The rev pipe (~30) gives more up top, whilst the torque pipe (~35) gives more down low.

“Another item of note ... the -30 is considerably larger than the -35. If I recall my measurements correctly, the -30 is 14" in circumference at the cone weld (where the diverging and converging cones meet..the largest diameter), the -35 is 11".” Cayncarver - http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=71451 The measurements he gave may not be 100% correct, but there is a definite difference in circumference.

“Point is, each pipe has its purpose. If it's a 200 and you ride in 3-6 gear all the time, then the -30 will likely suit you. If you ride your 200 1-3 most of the time, the -35 will likely suit you” is a point he makes. However, if the PC pipe is similar to the FMF torque (~30) pipe, I’ve got the wrong pipe – but happened to prefer it over the ~30 pipe, and others may find the same. It depends also on riding style. The 220 is definitely recommended to have the ~35 pipe, I have seen no comments about riding style coming into it.

Bills Pipe is snappy and not recommended for the novice rider. It has more down low than a PC and more mid, but hits quite hard (no reference here, except a conversation I had with a KDX200 rider I know).

Procircuit is similar to the rev pipe, but more everywhere, instead of just top end. – Speedy http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=74531 There will be a Platinum II coming out once the existing Platinum pipe stock is used up - 18 guage metal, no difference in pipe. According to the Procircuit forum, the PC is "more mid & low". "The pipe and silencer for the KDX200 gives the bike more bottom, to mid range power. This is where the stock bike really needs help considering that most of the riders use this model for off-road applications." - Pro Circuit http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=73296

Dynoport – only reference found was a comment they make a pipe (search function currently not working, will endeavour to find more info at a later stage)

There is also a reference to DG making a pipe, but again, unable to reference this at this stage.

 

[jaguar]

Michelle, about the PC pipe, I just searched on the PC forum for "KDX" and came up with no threads. Since PC makes pipes to enhance what's lacking in their performance, it can't be said that they make pipes just to enhance low and mid range. I have one on my KDX and it mostly just enhanced the top end with just a very slight enhancement low and mid range.

 

[Michelle]

FAQ - worth it or not?

First off, if you could let me know if the FAQ is worth pursuing or not.

Jaguar, the search function's not up & running again yet. (in reply to your post in the FAQ thread)
It goes through the motions, then just says "no threads found".
Thanks for reminding me I needed to post a link to the thread about the PC pipe. This came from the PC dude, not me. All I can tell about my pipe is that I prefer it over the torque pipe (fat lot of use that is). I have to try the torque pipe again & decide why I didn't really like it.
I guess I'm an outta control rider rather than a smooth one ;) lol
To be honest, coming off a YZ80 with a huge hit, I really missed that, so it could be. The 80 was a bit too peaky where it would throw me off the back going uphill if I was a bit too full-on throttle or hit something (tree roots) a bit hard - not the easiest bike to learn to ride on, but fun.
I will go link the post to the PC person's thread. It was a quote, not my observation.
Glad to see someone is at least reading the FAQ, I honestly don't know if it's heading in the right direction & will one day be useful or not. Without feedback from others, it feels like it's just a waste of time (well, not really, because I at least have had something to do whilst pretty much stuck at home).

p.s. I thought I'd try to add a poll, just so maybe I could get some feedback.
And please, if you feel it's not a waste, send me some bloody other common questions, I'm not exactly the only person who notices a pattern. ;)
Michelle
edited to not look like I was posting a poll about Jaguar lol (sorry chief)

 

[TVRider]

Michelle,

I think it's a great idea! Keep up the good work :thumb: My one comment would be that if people want to reply, start a new thread or it will become a discussion instead of an information resource. How about a FAQ about Reeds and Reed Valves? There seems to be a fair amount of debate about Boyesen Power reeds vs Rad Valve vs Vforce Delta 2 Reeds and Cage.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Michelle]

TVRider, I agree about the discussions on it, if they can be left out of the actual thread, it will be appreciated - hence I started this thread to post my reply to Jaguar, rather than carrying on the conversation in the FAQ.

Thanks for the topic, too, I send myself emails so I can keep track of what I want to look for but do forget some obvious ones (that was one of them that keeps slipping in & out my brain).

There's been enough response to know that I'm not wasting my time, which was my concern.

To those that wonder who'll read it & if it will help with the repetition of questions, time will tell. But like with Fred's post linking to the JustKDX site - at least we'll be able to direct them to one place & not keep posting "do a search" ;) If people want more info than provided, they can ask & we can update the FAQ as necessary - it will hopefully stay a live thread, or they can search (when the function springs back into life & stops telling us "no matches, try another word" - Okie is working on it.
Michelle

 

[TVRider]

Michelle,

I'm new to the KDX scene, but love this site. I'm like a junkie, I have to check it every few hours for new posts. I love following threads and finding out as much as possible about various KDX subjects. This is great stuff, keep it going :yeehaw:

 

[BRush]

Originally posted by Michelle
My 220 has a 33mm carb, is this better than a larger carb?

No. The 200 has a 35mm carb which is possible to bolt straight onto the 220. A cheaper option would be to bore the 33mm carb out to a 36mm with a divider plate.
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Michelle,
I disagree with the response about the 33mm carb. The answer makes it seem that every 220 owner should run out and swap their carb. The smaller carb is there for a reason on the 220 and that's to make it a low-end torque monster (at least in comparison to the 200). The tradeoff is peak HP and top end performance. The FAQ answer should touch on the tradeoff issue: If you run out and put a larger carb on, yes your bike is going to rev out more, but you may also see some low end disappear. The 35mm KDX 200 carb is only "better" if the tradeoff is worth it to you.

There are offsetting things you can do: For example an FMF pipe, airbox mods, and aftermarket reed valves may boost the overall power enough that the percentage of power shifted away from the low end is somewhat masked because the overall power has been increased.

The mod that comes closest to "something for nothing" is the RB Carb mod, since the divider plate acts as kind of a bi-focal lens for airflow, mimicking a smaller diameter carb at 0 to 1/2 throttle for better low end response, yet opening wide for more airflow at full throttle.

 

[jaguar]

Michelle, it's a good idea to consolidate the info to save people time searching and sorting through the threads. But it looks to be a big job. Maybe you'll finish before the end of the year. keep up the good work!

 

[Braahp]

Thanks for taking the time to do this!

 

[Michelle]

Okey tokey, going to go about this another way.
What I'll do (and hopefully others), is post topics headed: "FAQ Topic: blah blah blah". Anything to be altered can be changed at this point. Once discussion is ended & everyone seems happy with the topic & answer, it'll then be moved to the FAQ.
I am not an authority on anything, I (and others) think this is a good idea and it's up to all of us, not just me. This way, the FAQ can be left alone, the answers thrashed out before being inserted, leaving the FAQ as an easy-to-read thread.
Funny how something seeming so difficult has such a basic answer (why the hell didn't you guys suggest that - TVRider saw the problem (as did I), but I couldn't see the wood for the trees & couldn't think how to get around it - doh!!!).
My suggestion is if anyone wants to post something/a topic, they do the same & that way we should all be happy (reasonably) with the results.
It will be an ongoing project, and there are times when nothing seems to be being added, but it's not forgotten about.
Michelle

 

[jaguar]

I would suggest putting in your first post of each thread the best of previous posts on the same subject, so then if there are additions or subtractions to be made then we can comment accordingly. That will save us from having to restate a lot of what has already been stated.

 

[BRush]

Here's another potential FAQ question we see from newbies:

"I am considering a KDX, but read in the manual where you have to replace the piston and rings after break in! This seems crazy. Do you really have to do that?"

 

[Michelle]

Help, my brake caliper pins are stuck, what do I do?

Useful threads:
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=16049 (discussion on what aftermarket pins to get)
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=16652 (discussion on stuck pins)
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=33262 (discussion on head of pins having been stripped)
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=52448 (another discussion on stuck pins)

Use a drill press and a GOOD vise. Start small and use progressively larger drills. Pick the threads out of the hole with a dental pick.
Get some aftermarket pins with hex heads, and ALWAYS use anti-seize when reinstalling.

Assuming you have stock pins...go buy some good penetrating lube....soak it for a couple of HOURS not minutes...keep it wet.....try an easy-out first....then if that doesn’t work, you can drill it out...if you're good with a drill.

Out of interest: “Woodsrider had the pleasure of watching former 8x Nat'l Enduro Champ Dick Burleson and former ISDE multi-time gold medalist Mark Hyde (how's that for name dropping) remove a stripped allen head brake pin bolt on my old XR back in ‘98. First they drilled the allen bolt just a bit and hammered a T-6 or T-7 torx bit into the hole. Carefully applying heat from a propane torch they were able to remove the stripped bolt in less than five minutes and install a new hex head brake pin bolt.” (it can happen to anyone)

For aftermarket brake pins, WER – http://www.werproducts.com/main_frames_page.htm, Moose and Dirt Tech make/supply them, but the quality of Moose appears to be questionable (see first post in useful threads list). Another place to look is Jeff Fredette – www.frpracing.com

When reinstalling your brake pins, remember to use anti-seize on the threads.

 

[Michelle]

First off, I'd like to apologise. The FAQ has not been forgotten by me and I'm still aiming to add more to it. As the DRN search function went down a while back, I've been waiting for it to come back to normal. I'm starting to doubt this will ever happen, so aim to print out all the pages (not all the threads). It means it's going to be more time consuming than I first thought, but I still think it's doable. At the moment I have no time (I'm online for a few minutes at a time as my father-in-law is in hospital & we're the only family here to contact, so there's no way I feel happy tying up the phone line).
Just thought I'd drop a line to say no, not forgotten, just slightly sidelined for the moment. I'd also appreciate any help, whether it'd be sending me links to threads of common topics, researching topics to be added or whatever. It really is awkward without being to search all the topics & only having the past month or so's worth.
Oh, in case you're wondering, my f-i-l will be fine, it's just the waiting that's frustrating (waiting for an angiogram) and trying not to let him stress too much about my mother-in-law coming home early from her holiday overseas.
Michelle

 

[KAY DEE EXER]

what about a "what fork springs do i need" faq or do i just have alot to learn...???

 

[Michelle]

FAQ Topics (thanks CC)

If everyone is happy with the topics, we'll move them to the FAQ.
I'd like to again apologise for not having updated it. The search function not functioning properly has been a big part of that, but there are personal reasons too - I've had a bit much on my plate lately.

Anyway, here ya go, compliments of CC.

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Q: What do the alpha designations (A,B,C,D) on the cylinder/head/piston mean? What is the difference between the designations? (This is applicable to the kdx200)

A: The attached chart (see bottom of post) shows the sizes and their alpha designations. Note the difference is .01mm between the 'alphas', which translates to .000363". That's less than 1/2 of one thousandth. Not much. While you won't likely 'stick' your bike if you put a 'C' piston in a 'B' motor, the proper way to do it is MEASURE your setup to determine what your requirements are.

You cannot specify a tolerance marking when you order from kawasaki.
You'll likely get a 'B'.

**Note** The Pro-x piston is perfectly suitable for the 200. It does not have the failure tendencies that the oem 220 piston has.


#########################################################################3

Q: What HondaXR models have what spring rates that will work in the kdx?

A: From CDave (posted on the forum 3-3-03):

It's the 1996-99 0.38kg/mm XR400 springs that are interchangeable and commonly used in 1995 to 2003 KDX200/220s.

From the racetech website:
'96-99 xr400r 43mm showa .38
'00-02 xr400r 43mm showa .40

'00 200 kdx 43mm kyb .35

The reasons to consider the honda springs:

They are hotwound.
Their length (530mm vs kdx oem 470) provides for a more linear response.


###############################################################3

Q: What is the procedure for changing the fork springs?

A: Consider matt disher's webpage:
http://www.dishers.com/hobbies/Repairs/

And, from the forum:
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74861&highlight=fork+spring+AND+install

A simple 'tool' can be made to hold the fork spring beneath the rod nut.
Cut a slot in a piece of sheet metal that is the diameter of the rod at a depth that will allow insertion far enough around the rod to hold the spring. Then you have hands free to wrench the rod jam nut/top cap connection.


###############################

Q: One (or more) of the front axle cap studs is broken. How can this be fixed?

A: Don't overtighten the nuts in the first place. Check your manual for specs.

Check this:
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33904&highlight=stud+front+axle


################################

Q: What are the basics of suspension setup? How do I set the clickers, and what do they do, anyway?

A: Check this for starters:

http://www.dirtrider.net/ericgorr/video_tuning2.html

And:

http://www.mx-tech.com/tuning.asp

################################


Q: How do I determine if the jetting is correct? What is a sparkplug
supposed to look like?

A: 1. 'Color' (shade of brown) of the insulator is NOT the issue for
starters. This thread (with pics) covers the subject great!

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48348
#########################################

 

[Peachy]

Fantastic idea.....keep it coming!!

 

[limitless]

This is a great idea man, good work!

 

[kiwimax]

Originally posted by Michelle
My bike makes a rattling sound at idle, is this normal?

Yes. Many discussions have been held about this and the cause has not been determined. Jeff Fredette recommends running a full quart of oil in the transmission and the noise should lessen.

If the noise you’re concerned about does not quieten down with more oil or gets louder with higher RPMs, maybe you should inspect the KIPS valve to ensure it’s working correctly. A good thread about this is: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=71461