KDX FAQ threads merged

[70 marlin]

Great Idea! keep up the good work, sorry to hear about the outlaws!

 

[KDXFreestyle]

Yes.

For 95 and up KDX 200's and KDX 220's, there is a Straight (MX) Rear fender WITHOUT a headlight to give your KDX that motocross look. The manufacturer of this fender is Maier, and it comes in Green or Black. These are available at many websites, such as www.denniskirk.com and www.frpoffroad.com.

For older Kdx's, (94's and older), an older model KX 500 Rear Fender will fit on the rear of your bike with minor mods., and cutting.

 

[KDXFreestyle]

Is there a KDX MX Rear fender out there for my KDX?


Yes.

For 95 and up KDX 200's and KDX 220's, there is a Straight (MX) Rear fender WITHOUT a headlight to give your KDX that motocross look. The manufacturer of this fender is Maier, and it comes in Green or Black. These are available at many websites, such as www.denniskirk.com and www.frpoffroad.com.

For older Kdx's, (94's and older), an older model KX 500 Rear Fender will fit on the rear of your bike with minor mods., and cutting.

 

[Michelle]

Q. I'm about to do my first topend & want to know what I need & what's involved.

A. Check out these threads & web pages for all you need to know:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/bakimseytopend.html

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8073 – what’s required to do the top-end

Kawasaki manual states .3 to .5 mm. service limit at .8mm (220 ring gap measurement)
0.15 ~ 0.35mm - service limit is 0.65mm (200 ring gap measurement)

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15157 An insightful post by C-Dave on when to do a top end.

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13582 About using a hone or scotch-brite to clean up the barrel

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18419 I’m not sure this is relevant any longer, but a warning about using a wiseco piston kit (from Sage) http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19232 (the thread referred to in the previous link)

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16148 (A, B, C, D piston kits information)
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32222 (as above, more info about the piston kits)
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37785 (yet more info about a, b, c & d piston kits)

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32264 (where to measure piston ring & barrel)

Q. While I've got the top end off, how do I know when to replace the connecting rod?

A. Check out the following thread:
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14296 (also has information about the wiseco piston – whether to drill or not – “not” in the case of the kdx)

 

[KDXNick]

Why/how should I modify my airbox lid.

The first thing a KDX owner does is remove the snorkel to allow better air flow into the airbox. Those of us who bought a 2nd hand bike have probably never seen one, but it sits at the back of the airbox lid. Removal leaves a hole so the air can flow through a bit more.
Drilling more holes in the airbox lid means even better air flow. Total removal of the airbox lid is fine, but it will mean relocation of the CDI unit. (see post by Lew)

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rushbe/airboxmod.jpg is a good picture of a modified lid. Picture thanks to Brush.

“If you're worried about dirt getting into the air box, try this.
Cut a piece of panty hose(nylons) to size and stretch it tightly over the open air box.
This will prevent any dirt from getting in and will act as a drum skin bouncing off any dirt. Also acts as a pre filter.” (posted by BucKat, 25.1.03) thread: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=70506

“I removed mine completely. This way I have the option of putting it back stock should the need arise. You can relocate the CDI to the cross member. There is already a tapped whole and reuse the bolt from the original location. I did place some rubber faucet washers under it to reduce vibration”. ~ Lew (25.1.03, thread as above)

"After taking my new 200 off of the showroom floor, I simply cut the airbox lid with a hacksaw right before the CDI unit. This effectively removes about 80% of the stock lid (including the snorkel). Airflow is improved and you don't have to remount the CDI. The stock lid isn't intended to keep out dirt or water, a common missconception, it's singular function is noise reduction. Removeing it is perhaps the best cost:performance mod for the stock KDX."
-Nick

 

[gr.wakefield]

reliability

undefined

Here's another potential FAQ question we see from newbies:

"I am considering a KDX, but read in the manual where you have to replace the piston and rings after break in! This seems crazy. Do you really have to do that?"

regarding your question re stripdowns 'providing
you use . fully synthetic oil'just ride and enjoy!!!
over here in britain 3 of us run 22okdx
mine was stripped at 2000 miles from new with no wear visible,since then,ihave fitted a bigger carb,ported the barrel and skimmed head,now on nearly 4ooo miles running fine,my friends have also had no problems all with similar milage,it is important to use an oil that dosent gum up the
power valves rings etc i use rock oil Geoff

 

[fitterod]

Why/how should I modify my airbox lid.

The first thing a KDX owner does is remove the snorkel to allow better air flow into the airbox. Those of us who bought a 2nd hand bike have probably never seen one, but it sits at the back of the airbox lid. Removal leaves a hole so the air can flow through a bit more.
Drilling more holes in the airbox lid means even better air flow. Total removal of the airbox lid is fine, but it will mean relocation of the CDI unit. (see post by Lew)

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rushbe/airboxmod.jpg is a good picture of a modified lid. Picture thanks to Brush.

“If you're worried about dirt getting into the air box, try this.
Cut a piece of panty hose(nylons) to size and stretch it tightly over the open air box.
This will prevent any dirt from getting in and will act as a drum skin bouncing off any dirt. Also acts as a pre filter.” (posted by BucKat, 25.1.03) thread: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=70506

“I removed mine completely. This way I have the option of putting it back stock should the need arise. You can relocate the CDI to the cross member. There is already a tapped whole and reuse the bolt from the original location. I did place some rubber faucet washers under it to reduce vibration”. ~ Lew (25.1.03, thread as above)

 

[fitterod]

I chose to leave the lid but I used a jig saw to cut out the raised area where the snorkel was. this is more than enough area for air flow. I covered the opening with a tin screen with 1/4 inch holes in it because if you live where the weather prevents you from riding for a few months mice will make a nest in there and tear up your filter doing so. this also keeps you from having to move the cdi box.

 

[Michelle]

Righto, I know I've got to sort through this thread & work out the index, but that can happen at some stage. Sorry I've been slack, just been real busy.

Anyway:

Q. What's that tube thingy on the bike. It looks like it has no purpose & haven't seen one of them on any other bike.
A. It's something to make KDX owners feel special & a talking point amongst them. It's also a feature left over from the Kawasaki Heavy Industries - they just felt the bike wasn't heavy enough ;)
Seriously though, after much speculation & many discussions, it's been decided it's a handle to lift the bike after you got it stuck (or the overhang on the forks got you yet again).
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=71985

Here's Spanky250's take on it:
"That "tube" is an integral part of the frame design as a whole. When the engineers designed the frame, computer load analysis showed it to be massively stronger with the addition of that little tube. Under no circumstances should you even consider removing it to save some weight, as the frame integrity will be severely compromised, to the point of failure if you so much as look at the bike too hard.
P.S. It makes a pretty good grab handle, too.;)"

Q. Has anyone ever put zerk/grease fittings on their KDX?
A. Yes. Here's a few threads to look at, which hopefully will help.
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=31051
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=32726
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=72602
FYI: One thread I skimmed, someone had a good theory about why not to put zerk fittings on it - he doesn't get lazy & pulls the bike down over winter, instead of just relying on the grease getting in there (plus that way you get to check the whole bike out). (probably taken completely out of context, but that was the gist I got from it).

As a side issue to this, don't forget when you buy your new (or new-to-you) bike, to go through the JustKDX pages & check what needs greasing etc. http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/ - If you haven't checked it out, do so, there's lots of great info there, but if you want more info, do a search in this forum & if you still can't find what you're looking for, just ask (yeah, I saw the thread where someone commented they're too scared to ask in case they get jumped on). The search function works well these days - if you're in the forum, you can search just the forum -next to the quick links.


Apologies (again) for not having updated this for ages, but I've also been struggling to work out what topics to even cover & haven't been riding the KDX much. If anyone has topics they're researching, please post links here to threads of interest. It can help all of us out.

 

[JasonWho]

---

 

[Vortex(Oldschool)]

How about one with kdx conversion help?

 

[Michelle]

If anyone could some posts - just make notes when you're doing a search for something, this thread could be updated. I don't have much time online these days and when I do, I'm mainly just doing reading.
I also haven't been riding the kdx much and definitely haven't been doing any mods (glad everytime I think about selling her, I take her for a ride - she's still a lot of fun).

 

[Green Hornet]

:| Don't you dare sell the old girl. If you do-May the KDX Gods punish You :)

 

[tonibaloney]

i found all this info helpful. i don't own a kdx 200... yet. i currently ride a klx 300 and am looking to change. all this condensed info made my search a little faster.

 

[oldCZer]

I am looking for a good light bike for fast mountainous trail riding. My Yamaha DT200 is a little underpowered and does not have enough bottom end torque for the tough climbs. I am considering a piped and carb modified KDX220 or a KTM 200. Either bike would be used and if I like it, I will likely keep it for many years. I am an old motocrosser from 35 years ago and can work on anything I buy.(but would rather be riding)
Cheerio,
oldCZer

 

[jaguar]

So why don't you modify your DT for more bottom end?
Just lower the cylinder and put more flexible reeds on it.
Also advance the timing a tad.