Longer shift lever?

[Cambridge]

I am after a longer shift lever for a 2006 RM125. I can only find 'hammerhead designs' however they are quite expensive. Are there any others?
I
have had a look at some other bikes however the design is quite strange... The only OEM that will fit is the RM250 I think, however Suzuki is unable to tell me if its longer or shorter!!!

If it comes down to it, where should I cut and weld it? Right near the tip?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Isobareng]

In the 1970's it was very common to cut and weld different length shift levers if memory serves most folks shortened their's back then and they made the cut in the middle. hope this helps

D

 

[Cambridge]

Thanks for the reply, Im no engineer, but wouldnt making the cut in the middle or further down towards the spline increase the chance of breakage as the the lever would act.... as a lever and help split the weld?

 

[Rotorranch]

A proper weld is generally stronger than the material being welded.

That said, I'd think in the middle would be good. More material to weld to compared to the tip. Also less leverage compared to the shaft end.

Rotor

 

[dales298]

IMS made one to fit my size 11 feet.

 

[Backslayer]

Rotorranch A proper weld is generally stronger than the material being welded



Being a welder for a living, roto is 100% correct. rods are generally 60xx to 90xx depending on application. first 2 numbers in rods are tensile strength ie 60 equals 60,000 pound tensile strengh. if you have it profesionally welded then youll have no probs.

 

[elcamino12sec]

I am having the same problem and I wear a size 14! Becasuse of the cost I am not going to get those expensive levers. I was going to do the same thing by cutting and welding. My bigest problem is the brake petal. I find myself standing on it all the time. I did however do allot of shopping when it was time to replace my boots. I purchased the Alpinestars Vector boots. Those are allot shorter in the toe and makes it easier to get under the shifter. My Thor Quadrant boots were way too tall in the toe, plus after a year and a hlaf they were shredded. The vectors are NICE boots if you are a big foot like me. Picked them up for 110.00 brand new on that auction site. Truse me, I tried them all on except for the Sidi.

 

[Cambridge]

i just bought brand new tech 7's so it would be cheaper to just cut and weld :)

I wear size 12 however my RM has the shifter quite close to the foot peg compared to other bikes.....

 

[grim sweeper]

I put an aluminum MSR shifter for rm250 on my sons rm125,it is about 3/4 inch longer and fit perfectly. (he wears size 12 boots)

 

[Cambridge]

Is the MSR one any longer than the original RM250 one?

 

[grim sweeper]

I measured from footpeg to shifter tip-oem rm125=5";msr=5.5";oem rm250=6". Best bet is to find oem shifter on that auction site.

 

[Cambridge]

I couldnt find any good used ones, so I bought an aftermarket one, it to is 5.5'' from the peg (up from 5) however it juusssttt touches the flywheel cover when changing up gears when its level with the peg, the only way I can overcome this is to have the shifter a few mm of the spline... which im not interested in doing.. or simply bending it. I take it the OEM one you used was off your 2003? Does the MSR one or the OEM have any clearance issues?

 

[grim sweeper]

The oem 250 shifter was purchased for my 03 250,no clearance problems on 125,the msr shifter is actually on 96 rm250,(same part# for 94 to 06 should fit the same,good quality for $ 25.00). If you have a steel replacement,those are easy to bend for clearance.

 

[Cambridge]

So the OEM 03 RM250 shifter fits with no problems... as does the MSR one maybe the one I got was badly made... Also when changing up gears (along with hitting the case) the chain also rubs on it! They had steel ones however the bend looked very different and I could tell it wouldnt fit... Looks like I need to get a OEM 2003 one! Are you able to send me any pictures of the OEM and MSR on the RM125?? Thanks for the patience!

 

[teamgreendad]

I would go to Suzuki home page and go to the specs for your bike. Check shift levers for all the rms in there. Maybe you can find a longer on that will bolt right up. I welded my shift lever before and it held up. You could also weld a little splint on there for extra strenght. As for your brake lever I think that is to much pressure and would leave that alone

 

[Cambridge]

I had a look on bike bandit and have come up with this:

RM250
03-07 - 2516386-001
02 - 1096960-001
01 - 489900-001
00 - 4181-001
96-99 -1478133-001
94-95 - 489883-001

RM125
04-07 - 3634272-001

01-07 - 2516385-001
1478132-001 (longer?)
489896-001 (rubber tip)

00 - 3539-001
98-99 - 3538-001
94-97 - 3829-001

For the 2004+ RM125, there are 3 different pictures of levers, and 4 different part numbers. They all share the same rubber tip lever, and 1 other lever, however it looks like there may be a longer one, however it is hard to tell by looking at the picture. So it looks like a genuine lever for a 03-07 RM250 is the go.