loose swing arm?

[Zforty5]

When adjusting the chain for slack, I notice that when I pull up on the chain the swing arm moves to the left side and forward about 1/8 of an inch?? Anyone had this happen to them? If so what is the fix?
Thanks for the help.

03 KDX200

 

[MUDMAX]

Swing arm needle bearings worn..... as mine after a short season.
All this because I did not grease them when bike was new.
It's never enough said: <<<GREASE THEM>>>>!!!

 

[Twiztid One]

bearing time :) not to bad to do just haft to press the old ones out , many companys sell kits .

 

[BRush]

The bearings are toast. Replace immediately and hope they have not destructed to the point where your swingarm has been damaged. Your bike is not that old, so I'm guessing that you assumed the bearings were greased at the factory? You would not be the first to be bitten by that assumption.

 

[canyncarvr]

A 2003 with bad swingarm bearings? That's a shame. No reason for that but lack of proper care of maintenance.

Did you do the 'new bike prep' on CDave's site?

Along the same track...how about the rear suspension linkage? Has that been serviced at all?

They both need to be done...now. Better late than never, I 'spose, but if the swingarm is ruined you're in for a bad surprise in the checkbook category.

GREASE YOUR BIKE!!!

Here's another one......the steering stem! Pull some maintenance on that before it's too late.

 

[kdxluver]

Worn Bearings

I suspect the bearings are toasted.... I just got a new 04 KDX220 and before I rode it I took apart the swingarm and shock linkage bearings and discovered ZERO grease.... :| Could be an expensive venture for you.... Pivot Works makes pretty decent swingarm and linkage kits for about 150.00 if I remember correctly ...Good luck
Randy

 

[jtorres]

How do you remove the old bearings from either the swing arm or the linkage? Then how do you install the new ones? Does the swing arm rimmed in the inside so you don't overpress the new bearings?

 

[BRush]

The manual gives the spec on how far to press the bearings in. You can use a press if you have access to one. If not, you can construct a simple puller. Here's what worked for me: To install the bearings, I made up a little tool. This consisted of a 19mm socket (because it was the same O.D. as the bearing), a 10" length of threaded rod, some nuts for the rod, and a bunch of flat washers. The idea is to make a press: the rod goes through the swingarm bore & bearing. The socket is slid over the rod followed by the washer & nut. Turning the nut moves the socket, which presses the bearing in. Also someone awhile back posted that they had good luck using a cheap Harbor Freight 1 ton arbor press and I may give that a try next time.

 

[wibby]

Also someone awhile back posted that they had good luck using a cheap Harbor Freight 1 ton arbor press and I may give that a try next time.

:think: I wonder who that was?
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=84203&page=1&pp=10&highlight=swingarm+bearing

 

[Zforty5]

To all who answered, thanks for the info.
I took the swing arm apart last night and yep, no swing arm grease. There is a little in the rear shock suspension. The funny part is that the sleeves fit tight in the bearings but the swing arm bolt is very loose as if the inside of the sleeves wore? Any way Hi HO HI Ho it's of to the dealer I go.
Thanks again

 

[canyncarvr]

Hold the phone!

Something isn't right.

IF the sleeve fits 'tight' in the bearing, then the bearing is ok. That is taking 'tight' to be a good thing...as a sleeve should fit. Snug, smooth, easily slid in and out, no corrosion. If you get no movement of the sleeve in the bearing, then where does the 1/8" of play you mention come from?

What does the pivot pin (bolt) itself look like? IF the sleeves are doing their job there is no way the sleeves will wear on the pivot pin.

You've described (or I understand) a mutually exclusive situation.

Before you go changing a bunch of stuff for no reason I suggest you find out WHY you are doing it.

What was the nut on the swingarm pivot bolt torqued to?

It IS the swingarm that was moving? Not the rear wheel?

 

[FLBusa]

One thing you want to check are the dog bone links. There's very little engagement between the pin and the shoulder of the bolt on the right side (nut side). If the nut loosens the link slips off the shoulder and rides on the thread. I recently discovered this to be the case on my bike. I took apart the entire link assembly, regreased and made extra sure that the link was properly seated on the shoulder of the bolt. And... since you are assembling something that has been thoroughly greased... spray the threads with point cleaner and wipe them off after the bolts have been inserted. Then apply some locktite blue. That sould last for quite sometime. :thumb:

 

[Zforty5]

Hey Canyncarvr,
After taking the swing arm apart I checked the pivot pin with a dial indicator and found no wear, with the exception of a few score marks. I did buy new bearings and sleeves, so I slid one of the new sleeves on the shaft and found it had just as much play as the old one. I did'nt install the bearings because something was just not right. I greasing every part with water proof grease including the shock pivot assembly. I re-assembled the arm and tightened the shaft bolt to what I thought was tight just to test the fit, what I thought to be tight enough was incorrect, it was still loose.
What the torque is I don't know ( I'll find out) but I tightened the SH""" out of the bolt and guess what no more play. What I don't understand is the shaft bolt was tight when I first noticed the play, so where did the slop come from? Maybe the shaft bolt worked it's way loose from binding up from the lack of grease??
As of right now it seems to be fine, I'll know more after I ride it. If this all comes down to not being torqued properly I'll feel pretty stupid... but lucky.

Lesson learned: Torque bolts, and use lots of grease because the dealer does'nt.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[Zforty5]

If your talking about the ones connected to the shock pivot assembly than I do see what you mean. when I in put them on I looked and there is very little shoulder to mount them on. I made sure to install them correctly and use blue locktite.
Thanks for the tip.

 

[Zforty5]

You're right, since it's a new bike greasing the swing arm was something I thought the dealer took care of.
Thanks

 

[canyncarvr]

65#, I believe for the swingarm. Same for unitrack mount to the frame...61# on the dogbone fasteners.

You're familiar with the touchy fit of the oem bolts on the dogbones? What flbusa is referring to? Not hard to tighten the assy against the shoulder of the bolts after you're packed the seals with grease. Make sure the bolt shoulders are THRU the dogbones before you put the 60+# on them. You CAN put that force against the shoulder and think you're done. Go for a ride and you'll find the shock knocking around loose after the dogbones got knocked OFF that bolt shoulder.

The dogbones themselves may be damaged....also the attaching bolts.

Do it right the first time.

BTW..a pretty set of devol pull rods (dog bones) resolves that problem because you use kx250 bolts that have a considerably longer shoulder.

65# is a good bit. It's not something you're going to get easily with a 3/8" ratchet of 'normal' length.

What was the condition of the lower shock bearing (in the unitrack arm)? If IT was ok, then the swingarm bearings wouldn't be gone, yet. Your reference to binding of the swingarm bearings causing the slop doesn't work.

The lower shock bearing will be bad most of the time. Even with a thrice yearly disassembly, I've replaced that bearing a good number of times. Look at the 'new' bearing and you'll see it's crap for starters. The rollers are so loosely fit that they are crooked in the race just sitting there!

Good luck.

Oh...there should indeed be NO slop in the SA. No detectable movement.