Lowering a KDX220R, Help!

[JWRFlame]

I'm a gonna buy a KDX220R for the wife and I need to lower the seat height about 1.5" . Spec's say the height stock is 36.2". I measured one at the local dealer and it was 37" but they had the sag set up for about a 300 lb rider. The shock spring was damn near adjusted down to the max. I weigh 195 and when I sat on it it sagged only 2". Hopefully with the sag set up for her it will be 36.2" as the Spec's say.

She's a great aggressive rider but only 5'-5". Nobody makes a decent bike with a 35" seat height. The only bikes with low seat heights are either way too heavy, are gutless, have too short of a wheelbase, have too small of wheels or are just pigs in general.

I settled on the KDX220 because it's inexpensive, has good power for it's weight (AKA 2 stroke), has great tractable low end and a guy can open up the airbox, put a gnarly pipe on it and make it will screem on the top end like a two stroke should. The suspension should work great for her 135 lbs too (I hear the stock springs are too light for a 180 lb guy).

I figure I could take some foam out of the seat to gain 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch but I need more and it is always nice to have a cushy seat. Is there anything else that I easily and inexpensively do? If I go lowering the triple clamps on the front forks (is it possible) will I screw up the handling/frame geometry too bad? Can something be done with the rear link? From memory I’m not sure if the sub frame is bolted or welded on, from photos in Kawasaki’s brochure I have here it looks like it is welded so maybe the subframe hole elongation thingy is out?

Any Ideas?? Thanks for any and all input.

 

[razrbakcrzy]

I am not positive, but I think I have heard references to lengthening the dog bones. It may have been shortening them. See if you can search the forum for "lowering" I know some of the guys have talked about it. seems to me one of the guy's is about 5'-2" needed to lower and also set up the suspension for some one who weighs about 140 lbs. (crazymike & rdrash2)

Jim

 

[JWRFlame]

Sorry guys, I didn't notice my thread got moved to this forum!! I should have noticed this forum was better suited to my question than the Mod. forum where I posted it yesterday. This morning it was not there so I posted again thinking I might have screwed up in geting it posted. Sorry for the double post.

There has to be a good reason for it's popularity, it must bea good bike.

Thanks for the input!!

 

[rompnstomp]

I lowered a '97 KDX 220 for my wife about 6 months ago. Go to do a search for kouba link (he has a website) and call Norm ASAP. I think I paid around $70 for the dogbones, shipping was fast, and my wife loves it. PLUS, when my 380EXC was waiting on parts, I was able to raise her bike back up and ride one weekend. Changing the pipe on the KDX is the ticket, and we've got an Eric Gorr 240 kit as well. Good luck.

 

[gwcrim]

There's an easy inch to take out of the seat. Maybe two. You can get probably 1/2"+ lowering the clamps on the forks. Then play with the rear sag. If you're wife's a petite one, you can probably set quite a bit of sag w/out compromising the spring rate. The handling will be OK as long as you lower the rear the same or more than the front.

All of these are FREE modifications. I've done them to 4 bikes. My 8 yr old boy fits his KX85 pretty well. On my KX500 I did have to use lowering links as the sag I had used made the rate too soft. Look at koubalinks.com.

 

[trailryder]

not a cheap fix but can be done when revalving or fluid change, When I has a KTM I has the suspension lowered 1". They install "bumpers" that do not let the suspension extend out fully.Suspension was also revalved to take into consideration the "shortening " of the stroke.Worked very well.

 

[canyncarvr]

Subframe is welded.

Common knowledge sez the front is good for about 130#, the rear for 180#.

re: 'gnarly'

That doesn't mean anything. Both series of pipe for the kdx are 'gnarly'. One is a rev profile, one a torque. BUT you will find a number of folks that switch those profile names from the 200 to the 220. More 220 riders use a rev profile (-30) than a torque profile (-35). The torque is the smaller of the two pipes..about 11" in circumference. The rev is about 14".

Otherwise, with the mismarkings, misnaming etc., it's easy to get the two mixed up between the two displacement kdxs.

Devol makes a set of longer (yes, longer=shorter) pull rods. Well..it's not the rods that are so much longer as the adjustable insert IN the rod that allows you to select effective lengths. Full-long will only get you about 1/2" though.

BTW...a longer pull rod will effectively make the shock spring softer. That's probably good for a 130# rider.

 

[KDXBoise]

I bought a 2004 KDX220 a couple of months ago. Since I am vertically challenged (5' 5", 29" inseam) the first thing I did before I even took the bike out was install a set of Kouba links. They make 3 sizes for the KDX. I installed the middle size Kouba links and slid the fork tubes up in the clamps. The bike fits me fine and handles great. My only complaint is that since the bike is lower, the kickstand is a little too long and the bike stands straight up with the kickstand down. I paid about $65 for the Kouba links at the local bike shop and installed them myself in about 1/2 hr. So far, I am very happy with them.

 

[Michelle]

Funny how this thread is so different from your other one. To whomever said longer dogbones would be the last thing you did - all I can say is - I guess you're taller than me.

I didn't want to cut down the foam as if I didn't like it, it was going to mean new seat foam (not cheap here) or new seat. I didn't want to spend lots of $'s, so wanted a cheap fix. I also didn't realise how much difference putting an extra sole on the boots would make (try normal shoes compared to riding boots). I went for longer dogbones which also means if I'm not riding the kdx for some time, my husband can change them out & ride the bike. I've also put a softer spring in the rear, got gold valves in the front but with stock springs (bought the bike with the gold valves, so no opinion on them) and am pretty happy with the bike most times. If I haven't ridden the bike for some time, I find it hard to get used to (this is in comparison to the ttr125 which is a totally different bike to ride). I also find that if I haven't ridden it for some time, I'm tempted to sell it. One good ride & I'm in love again.

The side stand never got shortened, leaving the bike unstable with the end result of the stand being removed.

I'm 5'3", no idea of weight (thank god for not having scales), but probably about 115 (I'm guessing), no idea of inseam either.

 

[yorinda]

I had the same situation with my 2004 KDX220. I had about an inch of lowering from getting an auto upholstery shop to replace the foam with high density foam, for about $100, with no real adverse effect on the ride quality. Then, got another inch and a half from installing Koubalinks, at a cost of roughly $75. Worked great, bike is much more managable now.

 

[Knetman]

I've removed the dogbone from my 97 KDX200 so my bro in-law (fitter and turner) can make some new ones for me. Can someone please confirm that I need to have them made longer, and if so... how much longer should they be for a 5'6" rider?

Also, if anyone knows, what's the ratio between link length and seat height.

Full-long will only get you about 1/2" though.

I did read this post, though full length of 114mm (Devol Link) for a 1/2" of seat height doesn't seem much... is this about right?

Thanks for all your help!
Tony

P.S.
The bike was too tall for me, so I screwed down the rear suspension, though found I'd lost too much travel and it became too hard over the ruts... hence the reason for the links so I can unwind the screw again to something a bit more practical.

 

[2wheeler]

Srewing down on the suspension will raise seat height. unscrew or take preload off of the shock will lower and soften the suspension.

 

[Knetman]

Srewing down on the suspension will raise seat height. unscrew or take preload off of the shock will lower and soften the suspension.

That was my original thought... though if you look at it, when you screw the shock down, it pushes on the pivoting arm, which therefore pushes on the dogbones, which in turn pushes the swingarm up... hence lowering the bike.

That's why the bike needs longer dogbones to lower it... rather than shorter ones. The way I've done it now by screwing it down is no big deal if it was only a reasonable adjustment, though with the amount I've got it screwed down to now, the suspension is not kick arse hard, though I can notice that it isn't as plush over the ruts... feels like it's trying to throw me off since I adjusted it. Can't wait for the new links!

Still not quite sure of the lengths though. I might go with a few different lengths from 114.5 to 120.5 and see how that goes. From what I've worked out, 120.5mm on the dogbone should equate to about 32mm (1 ¼") reduction in seat height. Does this sound about right?

Tony

 

[Michelle]

Tony, I'm 5'3" & have gone to 117? dogbones (+5mm, so must be 117.5mm, in any case). I still have times when the bike feels a bit tall, but unless I was on my ttr125, any bike would be. Actually, I think a skateboard would be too tall in some situations I get myself into.

I remember I almost cried when I compared the difference between stock & longer dogbones, but that was in the garage with normal boots/shoes on. One ride & I was a convert. I've been riding the ttr for about 2 summers now & while deciding which bike to get rid of have been riding the kdx again. For some dumb reason it feels small & I'm comfortable on it (I still think that's opposite to what it should be).

If you can do different lengths, go for it, but I'd suggest trying them out in your riding area, not at home in the garage.

 

[Knetman]

I remember I almost cried when I compared the difference between stock & longer dogbones, but that was in the garage with normal boots/shoes on.

Thanks for your post Michelle. I kinda got a bit lost with what you meant. Was that "almost cried" a good cry or a bad cry?

Overall... with the 117mm links, was there a noticable difference in height? I'm about 5"6' and the current height of the bike is still a killer for me when I'm hill climbing. I could wind it down some more... though to avoid the rear being rock hard, I've had to make the compromise... hence the links, so can unwind the shock to regain the suspension travel, though hopefully end up with the bike a little lower than when I had it wound down. I wound the shock down about 2 inches, though didn't take any measurements of the seat height differences. I'll make sure I measure it this time when I unwind the shock and also the link differences. Will post the figures online once I get the new links.

 

[John Harris]

Don't forget you can/should raise the forks about a cm or half inch in the tripple clamps to lower the front to match the rear. Good suspension requires balance front to back. Many have used the electric knife to take about an inch out of the seat foam to further lower the KDX. Cheers John

 

[Michelle]

Tony, I was highly disappointed with the amount it lowered the bike. I can't remember the exact measurements of what it dropped it by, but I thought it would be a male measurement, not an actual one ;) (ya know, the fish that was 2" becomes 6" type scenario).

There was definitely a noticeable amount of lowering, just not what I'd expected. I'm happy with it now, but it took the first ride to convince me it had altered it.

You say you have trouble with the height when hill climbing? You're meant to be on the bike not next to it ;)

Another question for you - have you altered the suspension in any way? I've got a softer shock spring to match the stock fork springs, rather than firming up the front (stock is unbalanced & for me it was the rear that was too hard). This makes a huge difference.

Hope that helps some

 

[Knetman]

haha
Yeah... I'm male too you know!
Though I figured that since I've had to loose enough 'macho' face tumbling down hills, I might as well accect the fact that I need to lower it a little. I'm pretty comfortable on most trailbikes, though I doubt there would be many people who wouldn't need the stock KDX height lowered. Comments anyone?

You say you have trouble with the height when hill climbing? You're meant to be on the bike not next to it

I know I keep getting told this... that why I need the lowering links... to lighten the bike. It gets heavy after a day of climbing!! haha

As for altering the suspension... all I've done is drop the forks to the bars and screw down the rear. Once the new links go on, I'll be setting it up properly. I don't know if anything was done to it before I bought it. It came with all the 'good bits' already on it... FMF pipe, silencer (repacked), barrel already sleeved, bars, one industries seat & sticker kit, o-ring chain, plus a full top & bottom end rebuild (inc. new piston, rings, all engine seal replaced, etc.) so I might ask the dealer if the previous owner played with the suspension.

I haven't ridden a stock one... though I quite like mine as it is, with the exception of the height.

 

[Michelle]

Basically, what lowering my bike has meant for me is that I can dab if need be but there are times I still struggle with the height/weight. Unless I become a competent rider (unlikely in the extreme) this is a fact I have to live with. I manage to get myself into predicaments that no one is likely to and manage to make the easiest trail look like a job for experts. I've been puzzling about my lack of talent, but think I've just found it - making everyone else feel better about their riding hahaha

Don't expect a miracle cure, it'll help with some things, but other things unless you're on a midget bike, you'll still struggle. Another option (along with cutting the seat foam) is adding another layer to your boot soles.

If your dealer can help with background on the bike's suspension, it'd definitely be worth asking.
Good luck :)

 

[Knetman]

Overall I think I'm a reasonable rider... though the height of the bike is a bain that gives me the sh*ts every time I ride it. When we go riding, we ride virgin tracks and hills. Mostly due to the inherent male ego reacting to the inherent male dares of "Bet you can't do that!". :blah: When going up a hill that I have to turn around on a lot to find other angles of attack, I get confronted with the bike either nearly falling over, or it going down the hill with it's short arse owner not far behind. :aj: Most other aspects of the bike I enjoy... just hoping these links will fit the bill and complete the package.
Spoke with my bro-in-law today, and we're going with 7.5mm over (120mm total) to begin with... and will play around with some other lengths if they lower it too much, or not enough.

I'll keep the thread updated with progress reports along the way...

 

[Knetman]

Ok, got the 120mm links on and it lowered the bike by 35mm (1 3/8") so we're looking at roughly every 1mm on the link, equating to 5mm on the seat height.

Thanks for everyone's input... hope this info helps someone else too...
Tony

 

[scairns]

Anyone know how long the Kouba Link 2 units are ?

:ride: