Ok, we got a lot to talk about now.
Sounds like your using the air screw to clean up other circuits, resulting in a comprimise. What you will comprimise is linear power delivery, and given the terrain your are in, is significant.
My experience with your procedure is it can dial-in a notchiness off idle under load resulting in a flat spot off idle, the ZAP, the rear is trying to break loose and hurt you in the thick, rooty, rocky slipery stuff.
Use the air screw to dial in off-idle chuggability and stall-resistance. You may find that optimum may be under 1.25 turn. I butt front wheel against a good size rock, ride the front wheel up and down the rock, and adjust the air screw to optimize its off-idle crawing torque, and stall resistance, repeatidly with the clutch. When you find optimum you will crave it afterward, because it makes off-dle power more linear to throttle input, and you can trust the engine at low rpm's.
Then you can attack the pilot, needle, etc.
Now, your choice of needle, slide, and pilot are suspect. I belive that 240 may not be happy with the stock needle, slide, and just a leaner pilot, because the stock bike certaily isn't! ;)