More torque please

[fuzzy]

Good point! AND your 240 might even need a leaner pilot yet!

 

[mudwalker]

Lake George NY. about 1000' above sea level. Its beauty up here!

 

[G. Gearloose]

mudwalker,
please descibe in detail your air screw setting procedure.

 

[mudwalker]

A/S setting:
1. Turn and count to seat screw. Was 1 1/2 turns.
2. Starting at 1/2 out, turn screw out (idle set to lowest possible setting) listining for eigine to increase in rpm.
3. When max rpm is reached, blip throtle to check for bog. you want instant, crisp responce.
I played with this on the trail yesterday and the A/S wants to be at 2 to 2 1/2 turns. The bike does work better at this setting, definite improvement! This indicates that I should drop from a 45 to a 42 piolet?
Having never messed with the A/S before, this adjustment produced results. The exact thing I have been questioning on this post, crisp, clean low end power.

 

[G. Gearloose]

Ok, we got a lot to talk about now.

Sounds like your using the air screw to clean up other circuits, resulting in a comprimise. What you will comprimise is linear power delivery, and given the terrain your are in, is significant.

My experience with your procedure is it can dial-in a notchiness off idle under load resulting in a flat spot off idle, the ZAP, the rear is trying to break loose and hurt you in the thick, rooty, rocky slipery stuff.

Use the air screw to dial in off-idle chuggability and stall-resistance. You may find that optimum may be under 1.25 turn. I butt front wheel against a good size rock, ride the front wheel up and down the rock, and adjust the air screw to optimize its off-idle crawing torque, and stall resistance, repeatidly with the clutch. When you find optimum you will crave it afterward, because it makes off-dle power more linear to throttle input, and you can trust the engine at low rpm's.

Then you can attack the pilot, needle, etc.

Now, your choice of needle, slide, and pilot are suspect. I belive that 240 may not be happy with the stock needle, slide, and just a leaner pilot, because the stock bike certaily isn't! ;)

 

[mudwalker]

I like the flywheel weight idea, just missed one on E-Bay. I'll try fussing with the A/S more, I like the results so far.
I had an extremely good ride yesterday and I'm learning that proformance and ability are definitely related. I was thinking while riding that someone with lots of experience riding and tuning these bikes would ride this one and after passing me "say there is nothing wrong with this machine, it kicks ass". This time last year I was hitting the same trails in 2nd and 3rd, now i'm runnung 3rd and 4th.

 

[canyncarvr]

Just adding another .02 to emphasize the content.

mud: If you didn't get every word of what G-loose said, read it again.

A 1/16!! turn of the AS on my bike is the difference between crap and scream.

You get used to the scream real quick (like G-loose sez)...and when it's gone, you want it back. Fortunately, now you know where it went and how to GET it back.

There's a reason that jetting is something continually and continuously harped on. It is without a doubt the single most important thing you can learn to do..learn about your bike..that relates to consistent and incredible gains in performance.

re: 'I was thinking while riding that someone with lots of experience riding and tuning these bikes would ride this one and after passing me "say there is nothing wrong with this machine, it kicks ass".

Ha! Truer words never spoken. Look what you have to look forward to!!

 

[mudwalker]

Thanks again everyone, I feel as though I may have wasted some of your time getting here. The information in this post has been very helpful to me and it may prove helpful to those that just read it.

Now, here is what I need. A 13t sproket, full set of jets and an aftermarket needle, a delta force red cage, an extra expansion chamber (-35), a flywheel weight and a silencer repack.

Or, are those the things I want, and all I really need is more time to ride and tune my scoot.

Again people, thanks.

 

[jeffw]

I couldn't get my 30 pipe to work well with the stock needle, the bike had a lean bog at less than 1/4 throttle and consequently no low end.

The 30 pipe seems to like a C taper needle. I run a CEM with a 158 main, 45 pilot at 1000 feet elevation. You can get needles from www.sudco.com for 5 dollars a piece.

BTW the stock needle is a BFQ and is really lean just off idle.

 

[mudwalker]

Where is the needle clip? Mine is on top of the clip.

 

[canyncarvr]

mud: Don't compare your clip position to anyone elses....unless their bike is setup the same way.

Asking jeffw where he runs his clip on a CEM won't mean squat to you.

The 'E' needle has a 38.15 L1 for starters. The OEM needles are generally 39.95 L1s. The taper start with the different ºs is another issue. His CEM needle taper will start further down the needle than a 'B' taper.

Not trying to confuse the issue, but asking someone 'what clip' doesn't mean a thing unless you KNOW all sorts of other 'stuff'.

 

[23jayhawk]

Just to add a little to what jeffw said - I have a '35 pipe on mine, and played around with needles this winter. I settled on a BEM; it seemed to match up well with the woods pipe and my riding skills.

I also tried a couple C tapers, and they were a bit mismatched to the '35 pipe. I really didn't notice much difference on the bottom or top, but the midrange just seemed kinda sudden, which at times put me into more trouble than it got me out of. :) And I could never really get the mid to run cleanly. I also agree about the stock needle being kinda finicky to tune just off idle.

BTW, for reference only, I'm currently at:

155M / 42P / BEM-3 @ 60F & 700' w/M2XT @ 32:1