Need Aluminum Parts Anodized...help...

[RocketRaccoon]

Before you guys slam me...I did a search and found info on anodizing, links to doing it yourself and supplies. What I need is a place that can do it for me. I searched my local yellow pages and cant find anyone that will do it. :( I have an Applied Triple Clamp that was red, but has now faded in some areas and looks like hell. I contacted them, but they said that they cant re-anodize it. I would also like to get my forks redone. Any suggestions? Im in Wappingers Falls, NY. I dont mind driving an hour or shipping the parts. Links to websites, etc. would be great.

 

[1BAD250]

polish the parts or powder coat them

 

[Josherichy]

Hear check out this web site...

http://www.wheellacing.com/html/wheel_anodizing.html

 

[RocketRaccoon]

Hear check out this web site...

http://www.wheellacing.com/html/wheel_anodizing.html

Thanks for the link. The Honda frame looks insane. :cool:

 

[Josherichy]

yea that site is prety cool... I found it when I was looking for rims and hubs...

 

[David Trustrum]

I have minimal knowledge on the subject, but I do know this much: Only some allys like to be anodised. Some do not & most castings fit into this category. Better to polish or paint.

 

[Jaybird]

I think Applied uses 7075-T6 aluminum billet, so there shouldn't be any problem surface treating them.

 

[mtk]

And if it isn't 7075, then most likely it is 6061 since something like 85-90% of all aluminum used is 6061, which will also anodize fine.

Not to mention that it was anodized in the first place.

 

[RocketRaccoon]

Thanks for all the replies and help, but do any of you know of a trusted place that does anodizing for a fair price?

 

[SFO]

Main problem is that after you strip the old anodizing off you will have to refinish the tripleclamp before it is reanodized.
The reason applied won't reanodise you tclamp is that unless the exterior surfaces are remachined the anodizing will look like crap.
I used to do a lot of high end anodized aluminum fixtures.
Reanodizing a part requires refinishing after the stripping process. This can often take as long as the original manufacturing of the part.
If you want, have the part stripped then, use scotchbrite 7447 to grain the clamp, then reanodize.
There are anodizing houses all over the US but they usually stop M/C guys at the door because they are a pain in the A**.
The EPA has caused anodizing formulations that will yeild the fading you are getting.
good luck!

 

[RocketRaccoon]

Main problem is that after you strip the old anodizing off you will have to refinish the tripleclamp before it is reanodized.
The reason applied won't reanodise you tclamp is that unless the exterior surfaces are remachined the anodizing will look like crap.
I used to do a lot of high end anodized aluminum fixtures.
Reanodizing a part requires refinishing after the stripping process. This can often take as long as the original manufacturing of the part.
If you want, have the part stripped then, use scotchbrite 7447 to grain the clamp, then reanodize.
There are anodizing houses all over the US but they usually stop M/C guys at the door because they are a pain in the A**.
The EPA has caused anodizing formulations that will yeild the fading you are getting.
good luck!

Thanks for the reply :cool:

 

[SFO]

If you don't want a shiny finish, maybe more of a milspec look, I really like clear hard anodizing. It looks grey and is tough as nails.

 

[RocketRaccoon]

If you don't want a shiny finish, maybe more of a milspec look, I really like clear hard anodizing. It looks grey and is tough as nails.

Thats what I was thinking of getting. The trick red look is nice, but when it fades it looks like hell. With the clear I would hope to avoid that problem. Thanks for the help.

 

[SFO]

clear hardcoat looks like granite, or greenish.
clear normal looks dull silver, just a fyi.
I like to use clear hardcoat with ti fasteners as the machined fastener heads really contrast with the dull green/grey of the surface finish.
reverse pimp, IMHO
showing off the subtle machine work of the machined fasteners instead of some big polished glop of aluminum.

 

[Jaybird]

reverse pimp...

LOL, isn't that also a wrestling hold? :rotfl:

You can probably get the old hydrate off with a lye soak.
And you can get it finished up fairly well with a buff wheel and some paste if you want it a slicker finish.
I use Mothers, but lots of better out there prolly.

I would think the tint of the hardcoat would look great with a green bike. Very commando look.

 

[SFO]

LOL, isn't that also a wrestling hold? :rotfl:

.

for some reason I think you know the answer to that question... :whoa: :nener: