I hope soon to replace the 28mm PE Keihin in my SR model for a 35mm PWK Keihin and need to know what needle to put in it. I ride MX occassionally.
thanks
The 200 models have come with either a N427-BFQ or -BFP in recent years, but I don't know if that is a good choice for your SR model. What other differences were there between it and US models? :think:
I've also tried a -CCN, but both of my first 2 rides with that needle have been in a few inches of snow, so can't really make any comparison with the stock BFQ. It did seem kinda sudden above 1/4 throttle, which may work well for your MX interests.
Hopefully acutemp will drop in as he seems to have an assortment of suggested combinations.
the main differences were the smaller carb and air filter and a quieter pipe but I've replaced the pipe with a screamin' PC pipe. The greatest difference I have now is that I glued the KIPS side valves in the open position since they just kept breaking. So now I want more mid and less top end since I also ride trails and on the street a lot. Actually my MX style would prefer more midrange also. I experimented to see how I'd like the powerband by lowering all the exhaust ports 1.5 mm by putting in epoxy glue. It melted/burned out quickly enough but before it did I experienced the power come on in the upper mid range which I really liked. I'm going to have a cylinder sleeve put in (since my cylinder is gouged from another mishap) and I'll ask him to make the exhausts 1.5mm lower.
Selecting the correct needle for your bike with the new carb will probably take a bit of testing to get right since your setup is a bit different than most. Are you still running the auto-lube system?
Do you know what bike the new carb is off of and is it set up with the airbox adaptor, which is very restrictive to connect to your airbox?
Slide cutaway on new carb?
I belive that the 35mm with adaptor that is set up to go on the sr model and with auto-lube had a very steep needle, I think it was a r2072 which would be a "E" taper. Having your powervalve pinned open will change the bikes needs a bit also. If you are running the auto-lube be very carefull when changing carbs and jetting or you will stick your motor. I have a hunch that this is the reason for the steep needle. Good luck.--Dan
the auto-lube stopped working (and seized a piston) so now I premix at 35:1 Motul semi-synthetic smokeless.
I was thinking of just buying a new carb since there aren't any motorcycle junkyards here. If you could steer me in the right direction of where to buy on-line it would be appreciated. I guess I'll need a suggestion for what slide to buy also.
What airbox adaptor are you referring to?
I recently had my butt kicked on the MX track by a Honda XR400 and XR600. It's time to upgrade and show them what a good KDX is made of. thanks for the help
Jaguar,
You might check with your local dealers and see if they can get you a price on a new carb. Then check with suddco and carb parts warehouse to see what they can get one to you for. With shipping it could be close. I would stay with the 35mm pwk carb although if you can get a better deal on a 36mm it will work to.
The airbox adaptor is a metal reducer that is attached to the carb. I have a picture of it somewhere I will post it when I find it. You will probably have to get a new reed block and air boot to fit the new carb up with as the holes will be to small.--Dan
Everything here that's imported is expensive. Cheaper for me to import.
A Mikuni VM34 is $90 and a Keihin PWK35 is $158. (before shipping) That's one reason I'd like to try the Mikuni. The two boots that connect to a Keihin 35 are $38 and $50 from bikebandit.com. The Keihin PWK35 is 11mm wider at the intake and 8mm wider at the outlet side than my Keihin PE28. So definitely I'd need adaptors or boots. Let me know how to get that adaptor and what its inside/outside diameters are. thanks!
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