i have a 99KDX220 new to me and it has an o-ring chain, i've never had an o-ring chain before on my old bike 91 KDX200 now a parts bike because of a real bad crash, head on, and i was wondering if the o-ring chain was supposed to be stiff, the links don't move that freely, is this normal or should i replace it, thanks
o-ring chain
- Thread starter jamin326
- Start date
They are normally stiff when cold, but loosen up when warm. For good info on "care and feeding" check out www.mx1000.com
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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It will be kind of stiff due to the tension the lil' o-rings put on the plates. Shouldn't be kinky.......
O-ring chains aren't the choice of champions 'cuz they DO rob some power. BUT, if you're a champeen, you don't have to buy your 'stuff' anyway..so who cares if you eat a chain every week?
For a dirt bike that's used ...well...like a dirt bike SHOULD be (in the muck and slime), an O-ring chain will last a heckuva lot longer than a chain without that sealing.
Same for o-ring, x-ring...whatever.
Clean it up....lubricate it with an approved o-ring chain luber (I use tri-flow teflon. Asking 'what lube is best' is like asking 'what oil is best'...everyone has their particular favorite).
Anyway, then pull the chain away from the rear sprocket. If it pulls away more'n about 1/3 of a link, it's worn out. Of course...the sprocket teeth (all slopey, leaning and sharp?) will give you an indication of the chain's condition, too.
Simply put, yes... the links don't move that freely.
O-ring chains aren't the choice of champions 'cuz they DO rob some power. BUT, if you're a champeen, you don't have to buy your 'stuff' anyway..so who cares if you eat a chain every week?
For a dirt bike that's used ...well...like a dirt bike SHOULD be (in the muck and slime), an O-ring chain will last a heckuva lot longer than a chain without that sealing.
Same for o-ring, x-ring...whatever.
Clean it up....lubricate it with an approved o-ring chain luber (I use tri-flow teflon. Asking 'what lube is best' is like asking 'what oil is best'...everyone has their particular favorite).
Anyway, then pull the chain away from the rear sprocket. If it pulls away more'n about 1/3 of a link, it's worn out. Of course...the sprocket teeth (all slopey, leaning and sharp?) will give you an indication of the chain's condition, too.
Simply put, yes... the links don't move that freely.
Best way to check the chain to see if it has grown past spec is to measure.
Once a chain has grown to a length of 3% longer than it's original length, it can and will damage your sprockets. You need to measure several sections of your chain to make sure there isn't one bad section. Changing them out at between 1-2% of growth will save you from sprocket damage.
I'm not saying that pulling the chain away from the sprocket is a poor way to judge chain growth, I'm just saying that pulling the chain away from the sprocket is a poor way to judge chain growth. :cool:
On chain stiffness...yes a ring chain is stiffer by nature than a standard chain, however don't just accept that they are stiff and not check them very carefully...a bad link or two will be noticibly stiffer than the rest. A bad link or two will most definately wear out the chain faster than anything else, save for no maintenance. O-ring chains are notorious for having one or two rings damaged and causing the rest of the chain and sprocket to head south fast.
Once a chain has grown to a length of 3% longer than it's original length, it can and will damage your sprockets. You need to measure several sections of your chain to make sure there isn't one bad section. Changing them out at between 1-2% of growth will save you from sprocket damage.
I'm not saying that pulling the chain away from the sprocket is a poor way to judge chain growth, I'm just saying that pulling the chain away from the sprocket is a poor way to judge chain growth. :cool:
On chain stiffness...yes a ring chain is stiffer by nature than a standard chain, however don't just accept that they are stiff and not check them very carefully...a bad link or two will be noticibly stiffer than the rest. A bad link or two will most definately wear out the chain faster than anything else, save for no maintenance. O-ring chains are notorious for having one or two rings damaged and causing the rest of the chain and sprocket to head south fast.
Attachments
That's the problem, the chain is trash now. It may run fine, but it will slowly but surely wear out the rest of the chain and the sprockets faster than they would have without the bad link. A vicious circle.
If the chain is not grown past spec, you could possibly cut the old bad link out and replace it with a master, but you need to get both the male and female parts that are bad out. If you don't have a spare peice of chain, you will have to shorten your set-up to accomplish this.
If the chain is not grown past spec, you could possibly cut the old bad link out and replace it with a master, but you need to get both the male and female parts that are bad out. If you don't have a spare peice of chain, you will have to shorten your set-up to accomplish this.
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canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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Yeah...pulling the chain away from the sprocket doesn't tell you exactly what its condition is. Besides that, it takes about 5 seconds.
It is certainly moh better to take the chain off the bike and measure its length. The pins of the master link likely look like rivet heads. You may have to grind them down to get the link out. Of course, that will waste the link so you'll have to buy another when you put your chain back on. The link likely won't want to come off for diddle, either. You'll have to use a drift and a hammer......or a chain break tool.
Oh..and it helps quite a bit to have a chain tool to put the link back on. A c-clamp and a couple of little (like 1/4" drive) sockets will do, too.
Oh...count on the whole process taking just a bit over 5 seconds.
Choose yur poison.
Cheers!
It is certainly moh better to take the chain off the bike and measure its length. The pins of the master link likely look like rivet heads. You may have to grind them down to get the link out. Of course, that will waste the link so you'll have to buy another when you put your chain back on. The link likely won't want to come off for diddle, either. You'll have to use a drift and a hammer......or a chain break tool.
Oh..and it helps quite a bit to have a chain tool to put the link back on. A c-clamp and a couple of little (like 1/4" drive) sockets will do, too.
Oh...count on the whole process taking just a bit over 5 seconds.
Choose yur poison.
Cheers!
Aaaa...don't take the chain off the bike to measure, you need it to be taught. Either hold pressure while in gear with the back wheel or you can put a weight on the bottom side of the chain to create some tension.
canyn, I'm not trying to take away from your advise, but what exactly will you know after your 5 second method? Nothing really.
Also, I dont suggest ever using a grinder to take a ring chain apart. THose little bits of slag will more than likely find their way to at least one ring or more and they are bigtime trouble. Buy a chain breaker at the very least. You can get them at any NAPA for about 10-15 dollars US.
You can get by without a chain press by doing what canyn said to reattach.
canyn, I'm not trying to take away from your advise, but what exactly will you know after your 5 second method? Nothing really.
Also, I dont suggest ever using a grinder to take a ring chain apart. THose little bits of slag will more than likely find their way to at least one ring or more and they are bigtime trouble. Buy a chain breaker at the very least. You can get them at any NAPA for about 10-15 dollars US.
You can get by without a chain press by doing what canyn said to reattach.
Danny Stein
Member
- Nov 12, 2002
- 53
- 0
I BOUGHT A 2002 KDX OFF THE SHOWROOM FLOOR AND THE BIKE COMES STOCK WITH A NON O-RING CHAIN AND I ATE THROUGH IT IN LESS THAN TWO MONTHS JUST RIDING ON THE WEEKENDS. I REPLACED THE CHAIN WITH AN O RING CHAIN ASWELL AS FRONT AND REAR SPROCKETS AND 2 1/2 MONTHS LATER I HAVE 'NT EVEN ADJUSTED ONCE TO SAY THE LEAST O-RING IS THE WAY TO GO!
Danny,
There is plenty more to do with the longevity of a chain set-up than what you have described. You need to offer us some information on what sort of maintenance you pulled, conditions, chain brand, bike, etc...
There is plenty more to do with the longevity of a chain set-up than what you have described. You need to offer us some information on what sort of maintenance you pulled, conditions, chain brand, bike, etc...
I recently replaced my chains on both my CR250 and KDX 200. My KDX got a DID ERT Gold, and my CR250 got a Renthal Gold R3 Oring chain. The CR250 (with Renthal R3) has not needed an adjustment since day one. The pretty copper color on the rollers wore off in about two minutes, but hey who cares. In the same time period and the ERT Gold is almost worn out. I have made several adjustments to "bring up the slack", which is growth and wear. This is with equal amounts of similar riding on both bikes.
The ERT was $56.00, and the R3 was $89.00. For the little extra, you make the call. Don't forget to consider the huge additional power output from the CR250. |:~) If the drag of "those lil orings" don't really bother you, then enjoy the fewer number of adjustments you wil be making over time.
The ERT was $56.00, and the R3 was $89.00. For the little extra, you make the call. Don't forget to consider the huge additional power output from the CR250. |:~) If the drag of "those lil orings" don't really bother you, then enjoy the fewer number of adjustments you wil be making over time.